DS 

Sn5 



Glass 
Book 



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A 

NAEEATIYE OF JOUENEYIXGS 

IX THE 

LAND OF ISRAEL 



BY KOBERT WILLAN 




LONDON: 

HOULSTON AND STONEMAN, PATERNOSTEE E0\ 



NOV 2 0 ^935 



"-tiTi 




PEEFACE. 



The following pages are the result of a journey to 
Palestine in tlie winter of 1847-48^ and of a six 
months^ stay in that country. The author's aim in 
his narrative^ has been rather to give the leading 
incidents of his various journeyings^ than to 
describe the objects which he saw. 

The novelty of a pedestrian journey through the 
centre of the country^ and the abundant leisure 
which the author enjoyed for observation^ may be 
some apology for adding another to the long list 
of published Travels in the Holy Land. But no 
apology is needed. Looking at the ^^Land of 
Israel'^ in the light in which God has regarded 
it^ every faithful view thereof^ especially if from a 
somewhat new position^ will be welcome to the 
Christian. It is the birth-place of his faith^ the 
land of God^s choice^ Immanuers land^ the glory 
of all lands f where the most important events of 
sacred history transpired^ where the threatenings 
of God have been most remarkably fulfilled^ and 



iv 



PREFACE. 



where the blessing of the Most High is yet most 
abundantly to descend: and every Bible-reader 
must be interested in hearing of the present 
condition of that land^ connected with which are 
our most sacred recollections^ and so many glorious 
anticipations. 

For much of the interest he has felt in the Land 
of Israel,, as well as for drawing his attention to 
some passages of Scripture throwing a new light 
on the topography of ancient Jerusalem^ and 
identifying the true Mount Sion with Mount 
Hermon (Deut. iv. 48)^ the author acknowledges 
himself indebted to Mr. Wilson ; whose writings 
on Our Israelitish Origin/^ The Book of In- 
heritance/^ ^^The World to Come/^ &c.^ are silently 
making their way among the thoughtful disciples 
of Christy and^ under the blessing of God^ are 
gradually leading unto a further developement of 
historical and especially prophetical truth^ to 
the confirmation of om^ common faith and the 
brightening of our hopes. 

Lancaster J October ^th^ 1849. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

GERMANY. 

Sail for Hull. . The Elbe. . Hamburg. . Appearance of the city. . 
Railroad. . Berlin . . Unter-den-Linden. . Leave Berlin. . Railway 
companions. . Smoking. . German farming. . Scene at Railway ter- 
minus. . Breslau. . Upper Silesian Railway. . Austrian frontier. . 
Custom-house officers. . Moravia. . Vineyards. . Arrive at Vienna. . 
Examination of luggage. . Vienna. . The Park, . St. Stephen's 
church.. The hotel.. Leave Vienna. . Glognitz railway. . Post car- 
riage . . Beautiful scenery • • Railway to Cilly . . Alpine road . . Adelsburg 

Trieste. . I beauty. . The oxen 1 — 17 

CHAPTER n. 

GREECE. — SMYRNA. BEYROOT. 

Sail from Trieste. . Scenery of the Adriatic. . English passengers 
in steamer. . Corfu. . Storm. . Syra. . Archipelago. . Bay of Smyrna 
.. Smyrna. . Bazaar. ... Mr. Lewis. . Greeks. . Ride to Bouja. . 
Turkish Burying grounds. . Bouja. . Sabbath in Bouja.. Ride to 
the fountain. . Greek engineering. . Land almost valueless. . Walk 
to Smyrna Castle. . Ancient aqueducts. . Fine view. . Paradiso. . 
Depart for Beyroot. . Austrian Steamer. . Rhodes. . Walk through 
the city. . Our fellow-passengers 18—31 

CHAPTER in. 

BEYROOT AND LEBANON. 

Arrive at Beyroot. . View from the harbour. . Innkeepers and 
dragomen,. Bazaars of Beyroot. . Ride up Lebanon. . Mahometan 
festival. . Roads of Lebanon. . Villages. . Arbeh. , American Mission 
. . Dr. Vandyke. . Fertility of Lebanon. . Scripture notices of Leba- 
iion. . Lady Hester Stanhope. . Mr. Scott. . Druses and Maronites. , 
Native compliments. , Beyroot. . Reside at Beyroot.. American 



ri 



CONTENTS. 



Mission. . Mr. Winbolt. . Our neighbours. . Native customs. . Mode 
of living. . Native dinner , 32 48 

CHAPTER IV. 

ACRE AND CARMEL. 

Leave Beyroot for Jerusalem. . Arab vessel. . Fellow-passengers. . 
Tyre and Sidon. . Zib. . Bay of Acre and Carmel. . Storm. . Take 
shelter in Acre. . Latin convent. . Acre. . Present appearance of the 
city. . Ride to Carmel. . Scene at the river Kishon'\ . Haifa. . 
Carmel. . Monastery. . Walks on Carmel. . Impressions. . Start for 
Nazareth on foot. . Plain of Acre. . Cross the Mukutta or Kishon. . 
Mountains of Galilee . . Beautiful country . . Arab villages . . Be- 
nighted. .Hospitable reception in an Arab village. . Scene in the 
Khan. . Mahometan devotions. . Walk to Nazareth. . Appearance of 
Nazareth 49—67 

CHAPTER V. 

NAZARETH. — MOUNT TABOR. JENEEN. NABLOUS. 

Nazareth. . Fountain of the Virgin. . Woman drawing water. . 
Scene from the summit of a hill.. Grotto of the Annunciation, 
House of Joseph, &c. . Walk to Mount Tabor. . Bedaween Arabs. . 
Mount Tabor. . Summit of Mountain. . Magnificent prospect.. 
The Transfiguration. . Ploughing on summit of Tabor. . Scripture 
history of Nazareth. . Leave Nazareth. . Plain of Esdraelon. . Culti- 
vation of the plain. . Ancient road to Jerusalem. . Village. . Historical 
notices. . Jeneen. . Scene in the Khan. . Walk amongst the moun- 
tains and villages of Samaria. . Roving Arabs. . Companions in the 
Journey. . Lose our way. . Village. . Ascend Mount Ebal. . View of 
Nablous.. History.. Enter the town.. Nablous.. Unpleasant 
lodging. . Jacob's Well. . Arab companions. . Valley of Lubban. . 
Khan Lubban. . Stay at Singeel. . Eastern hand-mill. . Arab cookery 
..Roguery of our host.. Tribe of Gypsies .. Beer. . Approach 
Jerusalem. . Impressions on viewing the city. . Enter the gates. . 
Latin convent 68 — 102 

CHAPTER VL 

JERUSALEM. 

Walks in the streets of Jerusalem. . New English church.. 



CONTEXTS. 



TU 



Bazaars. . Valley of Hinn3m. . Pool of Siloam. . Valley of Jehosaphat 
. . Fountain of the Virgin. . Garden of Gethsemane. . Ascend Mount 
of Olives. . View of Jerusalem. . Visit Bethany. . Tomb of Lazarus. . 
Jewish burying ground.. Tomb of the Virgin — Greek and Latin 
Churches .. Russian pilgrims. . Turkish soldiers. . Upper pool.. 
Church of the Holy Sepulchre. . Curious scene. . Latin certificate. . 
Promenade. . New Protestant church. . The highest part of the city 
improperly called Mt. Zion. . Walk round the walls of Jerusalem. . 
English service at the church.. Bishop Gobat. . Sepulchres of 
the Kings 103—121 



CHAPTER VIL 

BETHLEHEM. JAFFA. TYRE. 

Walk to Bethlehem . Women of Bethlehem. . Convent. . Well of 
£e-hlehem. . Visit Pools of Bethlehem. . Aqueduct to Jerusalem.. 
Occurrepce at the Poo's. . Sights in Bethlehem. . Rachel's Tomb. . 
Convent of Liiji ; omb of David. . Mosque of Omar. . Leave 
-Jerusalem. . Rids to Ramleh. . Plain of Sharon. . ramleh. . 
JAFFA. , Oranges. . Historical Notice. . Sail for Beyroot. . Fellow- 
passengers. . Storm. . Shipwreck. . Scene on the beach. . Bedaween 
.\rabs. . Return to Jaffa. . Sufferings of a Jew. . British Consul. . 
Ride to Mount Carmel. . Plain of Sharon. . Khan. . Ruins of 
Cge.- area. . Left alone and benighted. . Carmel Monastery.. 
Condition of the Pltiiri between Jaffa aud Carmel. . Walk to Acre. . 
A day at Zib. . Walk to Tyre. . Khans. . White Promontory. . Enter 
T^Te. . Greek Convent. . Modern Tyre. . Sail in Arab Vessel.. 
Land at Beyroot , 122—143 



CHAPTER VJII. 

B E YROOT.— ■ .L EX AN D R I A . MALTA . F RANGE. 

f'opulation of Beyroot.. Druses and Maronites. . Influence of the 
British Cons^^ls , ^'-.-ive Christian Funeral.. Mahometan Funerals 
. . tiiQ aaieu lu r aicstine. . Its condition and prospects. . Voyage in 
Steamer to Alexandria. . A death on board. . Malta. . Arrive at 
Marseilles. . Quarantine. . ^Marseilles. . Diligence. . Railway. . Avig- 
non. . Diligence to Valence. . P.iver Steamer. . Lyons. . Bourges. . 
Orleans.. Paris. . Boulogne. . Arrive at London 144 — 157 



A NARRATIVE, &c. 



CHAPTEE I. 

THE VOYAGE TO HAMBURG. JOURNEY TO BERLIN 

BRESLAU VIENNA AND TRIESTE. 

On Thiirsday evenings 24tli September^ 1847^, in 
company T\itli John Lowthian^ Esq.^ wlio was then 
on liis second journey to the Land of Israel^ I 
went on board the steamer^ Helen M^Gregor^ at 
Hull^ which was to start for Hamburg early the 
following morning. The route which we had 
chosen was to enter Germany at Hamburgh and 
from thence to travel by the connecting hues of 
railway through the capitals of Prussia and Austria 
to Trieste^ from whence we intended to proceed 
by the Austrian Lloyds^ steamers down the Adriatic 
to the Levant. 

When we ascended the deck the next mornings 
the steamer was at the mouth of the Humber^ and 
emerging upon the open sea. The morning was 
fine and calm ; and the great numbers of vessels 
on every side rendered the prospect cheerfal and 
enlivening. But as we got fm^ther out; and had 

B 



2 



THE VOYAGE. 



bidden adieu to the sight of the shores of our 
beloved country^ the number of ships visible 
became much less^ and the wind and the waves 
began to rise. Moreover a drizzling rain came 
on^ which made the deck unpleasant^ and the 
sickness which soon affected me added no httle to 
the sense of the miserable. It was some relief to 
think of the land to which we were journeying; 
interesting as identified with all that is sacred in 
history^ and with the multitudinous promises of 
blessing there to receive their accomplishment. 
The desires of our life^ from our earliest years^ 
seemed likely now to be realized; and it was 
almost with wonder^ yet with confidence^ that I 
said^ Our feet shall stand within thy gates^ O 
Jerusalem. 

Our voyage was without incident^ an d^ the weather 
continuing unpleasant^ we were glad to find our- 
selves on Saturday evenings opposite Cuxhaven^ at 
the mouth of the Elbe. We remained at anchor 
for about two hours^ and received some passengers 
on board. During the night we passed Heglioland 
(Holy land)^ an island belonging to Britain^ from 
whence British manufactures w^ere extensively 
smuggled into the continent during the wars of 
Napoleon; and which has now become a favourite 
bathing place of the Hamburgers. When daylight 
appeared we were within a few miles of Hamburg ; 
and already opposite to us on the left^ old- 
fashioned high brick houses lined the shore^ the 
red brick contrasting finely with the deep green of 



HAMBrHG. 



3 



the Mils behind, xls we advanced,, the houses were 
more numerous^ extending a little backwards. 
Tokens of om^ approach to a large and commercial 
city continued to increase^ until we anchored^ at 
about half past four o^clock on Sunday mornings a 
Httle below the city gates. All the passengers got 
their luggage off, and went on shore immediately. 
We were glad to follow their example^ and once 
more to set our feet on land. We proceeded up 
the quay until we were stopped by ii'on gates which 
we found closed across it^ and which gave admission 
to the city. We were told that they would not be 
opened until five o^clock^ unless ^ve paid for per- 
mission to pass ; and as it was near five^ we waited and 
saved our money. As it was so early in the morning, 
the streets were empty and silent^ and when we 
got to the Albion Hotels the inmates were asleep ; 
and we had to wait^ shivering in the cold for 
sometime, before we were admitted. 

When we had refreshed ourselves^ and rested 
awhile^ we went out to see a little of the new world 
into which we had landed. Instead of beings as I 
had often pictured it^ a mean and dirty city^ its 
cheerfulness^ cleanhness^ and beauty sui^prised us. 
From the absence of coal smoke, even the oldest 
buildings had a pecuhar freshness of appearance, 
and the populous city seemed to have the bright clear 
air of the country. In the old part of the city, the 
buildings are very high, and the gable ends, studded 
with windows, front the streets, giving them a fine 
old-fashioned, pictm^esque appearance. The terrible 



4 



HAMBURG. 



fire of 1842 is said to have bm^ned down 1749 
houses^ and 61 streets. These have been rebuilt 
in a magnificent style of street architecture^ and 
form a new town highly in contrast with the 
appearance of the old part. 

It is stated that there are 4000 resident Enghsh 
in Hamburgh and there are two places of worship 
where the service is performed in our language ; 
one Episcopal_, and the other Congregational. We 
attended the latter^ and though we thought that 
devotion and simplicity were wanting, we were 
pleasantly reminded of the privileges and blessings 
of our own happy land. Every Christian^ whilst 
travelling abroad^ has need to learn^ what we are 
all so apt to forget^ that the Lord of heaven and 
earth dwelleth not in temples made with hands/^^ 
and that the time noiv is when place and building 
matter not^ but ^^the true worshippers shall worship 
the father in spirit and in truth.^^^^ 

Hamburg is almost surrounded with extensive 
and beautiful gardens^ belonging to the city^ and 
open to all. Well-formed walks cross in all 
directions^ in some parts shaded by overhanging 
trees. At some spots in the gardens an extensive 
prospect is ^isible^ the principal features of which 
are^ a panoramic view of the spacious city, the 
noble river^ and over the latter the rich plains of 
Hanover. We were told that the united length of 
the walks was not less than 30 miles. Seats were 
places at intervals along the sides of the walks^ and 

1 Acts xvi. r4. 2 Joan iy, 21, 23, 



SUNDAY IN HAMBURG. 



5 



under the trees. No one is allowed to touch 
anything, and soldiers are standing guard at all 
points. 

As it was Sunday, most of the shops were closed 
in the morning, but towards evening, particularly 
in the new part, the shops generally were opened, 
and the streets were very much croAvded, most of 
the men smoking either cigars or pipes. The 
number of persons with J ewish physiognomy whom 
we met in the streets, appeared very great. It 
has been said that, although the workshops are 
apparently closed, in many of them the workmen 
are obhged by their masters to work on the Sabbath. 
Confirmatory thereof, we saw a painter with his 
brushes and palette, retm^ning from his work, enter 
his master^s shop opposite our hotel. 

We were much struck with the grotesque 
appearance and dress of the country people, who 
bring their produce to Hambui^g for sale. The 
women of one district, of whom many were seen 
selling nosegays, were most cmiously attired. They 
wore a flat hat of immense dimensions, a loose cross 
suspended on the shoulders, and a very full and 
very short di^ess. I felt it strange to be for the 
first time in my life amongst people whose language 
I understood not. This feeling however soon 
went away. 

On jMonday morning we enjoyed a walk in the 
gardens ; and after breakfast, we had a hunt after 
passports, which was anything but pleasant. Having 
got one from the British consul, we got it vised at 

b2 



6 



RAILWAY TO BERLIN. 



the Police Office^ and drove to tlie Austrian 
consulate^ but tlie consul was from home. We 
then went to the terminus of the Berlin railway. 
On getting our tickets^ we had to give up our 
luggage_, for which we also received tickets. The 
arrangements of the railway were very perfect; 
and the carriages more comfortable than the 
corresponding class in England. The speed also 
was very great. The principal objection we felt 
was the sideway motion of the carriages^ which is 
probably owing to their great length — one German 
carriage being about as long as two English ones 
united. One line of rails seemed sufficiently to 
accommodate the traffic^ and we understood that 
continental railways generally have only one line. 
The country over which wepassed between Hambiu'g 
and Berlin is little better than a sandy waste. 
T\niere there was grass^ it appeared very thin^ and 
sustained some small cattle in a pitiable condition. 
The stations on the railway much surpassed 
English ^dllage stations^, and were apparently much 
too large. At some of these^ about the end of 
every hour^ from ten to twenty minutes was allowed 
for refreshment. And however leisurely Germans 
may take other matters^ they certainly made good 
use of their time at these places— sustaining 
themselves during the intervals by incessant 
smoking in the carriages. 

We arrived at Berhn late in the evenings and 
ordered a drosky to take us to the British Hotel 
in the Unter-den-Linden. AVhen we got there^ 



BERLIX. 



7 



we found it a spacious and splendid establishment^ 
but the only thing British about it was the desire 
to get English travellers and English money — 
except the head waiter^ who could speak a verj^ 
little English. The attention and accommodation 
were eyerything we could desire. 

We stayed in Berlin two days^ waiting for 
something which ^Ir. Lowthian had left at 
Hamburg. Notwithstanding the weather^ which 
was very disagreeable^ we ^^sited a few of the 
principle objects of interest in the city. The 
Unter-den-Linden street is I think unequalled 
anywhere as a street. It is perfectly straight 
and yery wide^ leading from the Brandenbm^g gate 
at the entrance of the city^ to the Royal Palace 
and other pubhc buildings. Several rows of 
Linden trees run the entire length of the street^ 
betwixt which are spacious promenades. We 
visited the museum/containing extensive collections 
of sculpture and paintings. In front of the 
museum stands a gigantic basin^ 23 feet in 
diameter^ cut out of one solid block of beautiftiUy 
spotted red granite. The entii^e city appeared to 
be built of brick,, not however left bare^ all the 
houses being covered with cement; and in the 
principal streets^ the architecture thi'oughout was 
of a highly ornamental description. The winter 
must be very severe at Berlin^ as almost all the 
windows were double^ the inner one about a foot 
from the outer window. 

On Thiu'sdav we left Berhn bv the railway 



8 



JOURNEY TO BRE3LAU. 



for Breslau^, very early in the morning. When 
v;e got to the station^ we found the large 
waiting room almost filled with persons sitting, 
smoking, and eating. Their number surprised us ; 
but as the train we were going by was the only 
train in the day through to Breslau (upwards of 200 
miles) the cause of such a large number of 
passengers was evident. Most of the passengers 
must have been there nearly an hour before the 
time; — perhaps purposely so, to enjoy themselves at 
the station. When we got into the carriages we 
were not a little annoved with the smoke. One 
gentleman besides us smoked incessantly the whole 
way. When he had smoked a few cigars, he 
would take his pipe for an hom^ or so, and then 
for variety go back to his cigar case. Our 
neighbours in the carriage soon found out that we 
were not Deutsch, and they began to conjecture 
what we were. A gentleman suggested that we 
were Poles, and a lady decided we were Danes; 
and they appeared surprised on being told that we 
were Enghsh. We afterwards found that two 
of our fellow-passengers — a German gentleman 
and a poor looking Jew — could speak and converse 
with us a little in English. 

The railway took us tln^ough a flat country, 
much richer and more populous than the country 
we had come through between Hamburg and Berlin. 
The fields were of immense size^ and cultivated 
in long patches, a few of these perhaps composing 
a peasant^s farm. We were amused at the 



BRESLAUa 



9 



plougliing;, wliich. was done witli poor-looking 
milch eoAYS ; the ploughman managing his little 
plough with one hand^ whilst the other sustained 
the beloved pipe of the German. About ten in 
the morning we passed by the large town of 
Frankfort-on-the-Oder j and about noon we entered 
the Prussian province of Silesia. The country 
continued to improve^ the soil here appearing fertile 
and well cultivated^ and the tameness of the scenery 
was reheved by the view of distant mountains. 
We passed several troops of navies^^ employed 
about the line^ and it was strange how they nearly 
always happened to be sitting eating as we passed. 
When at work^ they proceeded in the most leism-ely 
manner^ and many had top coats on to keep them 
warm. 

We arrived at Breslau^ the capital of Silesia^ 
about nine o^clock in the evening, heartily tu^ed 
with being confined the whole day in the carriage. 
In assorting and delivering the passengers^ luggage, 
a scene of the utmost confusion took place. The 
trunks and boxes were all placed behind a counter 
in front of which the passengers thronged, each 
one anxious to get away, and calling out the 
number of his luggage ticket. The mass of 
luggage was so great that the porters appeared quite 
confused, and scarcely any progress was made for 
some time. At length one gentleman shouted 
out his number and the magical word trinkgeld/' 
[drink-money] , and his luggage was forthcoming 
immediately. One after another got theii^s on the 



10 



BRESLAU. RAILWAY. 



same terms ; and it appeared surprising that the 
head officials present did not stop it. When we 
got to the inn to which we had been recommended^ 
the waiter told ns in English that the house was 
fuU^ and named another^ to which we drove. It 
was a very good hotels but there was no one in the 
house who could speak a word of English. On 
the following morning (Friday) we had a little time 
to look about us in Breslau. It is a large and 
important city^ with 110^000 inhabitants. The 
peasantry^ who on the continent retain the ancient 
costume, were here mingling with townspeople 
dressed in the latest French fashion. The country 
women wore strange head dresses, and immense 
straw hats. The old streets of Breslau have a 
highly picturesque appearance ; the very steep roofs 
of the houses being ornamented and studded with 
upright windows, which admit light to two or 
three of the top stories of the houses. 

At noon we repaired to the station of the Upper 
Silesian Railway, which we found crowded. We 
could pay no further thanCosel, and not to Vienna as 
we had expected. The country appeared finer, more 
populous, and more varied in its character, than 
we had hitherto seen, and we enjoyed our ride 
much. When we got to Cosel, our luggage had 
to be re-weighed, and the porters satisfied with 
trinkgeld ; and we here could pay only to Annaberg, 
a small place near the Austrian frontier. Our 
guide books and maps represented the line of 
railway complete all the way to Vienna, but when 



AUSTRIAN RAILWAY. 



11 



we anived at Annaberg we were undeceived. 
Night liad then come on ; and leaving the railway, 
we were driven, along ^ith all the passengers, in 
Omnibuses, for several miles, to the terminus of 
the Austrian Northern railway, where we arrived 
near midnight, and were all suiTendered into the 
hands of the Austrian Military, We were ushered 
into a large and well -lighted room, where all the 
passports and luggage were closely examined — the 
latter in search of contraband articles. There being 
a great number of passengers, this took some time, 
and it was to us from its novelty a scene of interest. 
Open trunks were lying on every hand, waiting to 
be examined, and the officers were rummaging in 
one after another. When all was over, and we 
had been there nearly two hours — without any 
refreshment — we were shewn into uncomfortable 
railway carriages, and safely locked therein. All 
these things gave us a most unfavourable 
impression of the "^^paternar^ government of 
Austria. 

When daylight appeared, we found ourselves 
passing over a fertile and well cultivated country_, 
and rather more interesting than we had hitherto 
seen. We were in the Austrian pro^dnce of 
Moravia, and rapidly approaching Austria proper. 
Large vineyards began to be seen, and it would 
have been beautiful to see the vines loaded with 
their rich clusters, but the grapes had all been 
recently gathered. The vines are cultivated 
as low small bushes, better than a vard distant 



12 



ARRIVE AT VIENNA. 



from eacli other^ each, vine being supported by a 
stick. A few miles distant from Vienna^ the train 
stopped^ and all tbo passports were taken by an 
officer, a small billet being given in exchange ; and 
we were directed to procure the passports at an office 
in Vienna vrithin twenty-four hours. It was near 
ten o^ clock on Saturday morning when we arrived 
at Vienna; and here the system of distributing 
the luggage was very much better than at Breslau or 
Berlin. As each article was handed out of the 
luggage van, its number was shouted out, and 
handed immediately to the person who claimed it, 
the passengers standing in a circle around the spot. 
As the numbers were shouted out in German, we 
could scarcely make out what the man said, but by 
watching closely, we managed to secm^e all our 
property. As we passed through the station house, 
all the luggage had to be opened for inspection 
by the custom-house officers, and it was even 
more strictly searched than on passing the frontier. 
Tobacco appeared to be the principal object of their 
search. A package of turnip seed belonging to 
Mr. Lowthian attracted their attention, and as he 
did not wish it to be opened, we endeavoured to 
explain what it contained, but without success. So 
the parcel was torn and the seeds scattered about, 
and then they were satisfied. 

We had asked some persons on the train, who had 
recommended us to the White Rose,^^ whither we 
repaired, and found it to be a very large inn. The 
hotels, here as at Berlin, are very large fine 



VIENNA. 



13 



buildings^ and tlie management is unexceptionable. 
The table d'hote,, which is the usual way of dining 
at Berlin^ is very uncommon at Vienna. Vienna 
is a fine old-fashioned city^ and in going through 
it^ we formed higher notions of its wealth and 
importance than of Berhn. The streets are narrow^ 
and were very dirty when we were there^ but the 
houses were well-built^ and covered with cement. 
The traffic continually passing along the streets 
was very great^ and reminded us of London. The 
extensive suburbs are more beautifully built than 
the city^ and in one of these suburbs — Leopoldstadt 
— our hotel was situate. We had to learn here an 
entirely fresh coinage^ in order to make purchases. 
Grapes and other fruit were abundant and cheap. 

On Sunday we endeavoured to get out of the 
noise and bustle of the city. We found the roads 
extremely dirty^ but we turned into the Park^ 
and there every thing was clean and beautiful. 
We enjoyed ourselves in walking along its spacious 
avenueSj hned on each side with closely planted 
trees^ cut in the ancient French style, and presenting 
a perfect wall of verdure of great height. The effect 
at first is not unpleasing from its novelty^ but the 
eye is soon wearied with looking at such endless 
uniformity. 

On Monday we looked through the city within 
the walls — which forms but a small part of Vienna. 
It is the centre of business^ and there was much to 
engage our attention. We found the office where 
we could engage places to Trieste^ by Railway and 

c 



14 



VIENNA. 



the Emperor^s post^ and we arranged to go by tlie 
first train on the following morning. The fine old 
gothic Chnrch of St. Stephen^ which stands in a 
large square in the centre of the city^ is one of the 
most interesting objects in Vienna. Going in^ we 
were amazed at the splendour of the interior. 
Every thing calculated to impress the beholder was 
there. Art and boundless expense seemed to have 
there done every thing to awe the mind into that 
peculiar feehng which stands in the place of spiritual 
worship in the Church of Rome. The high altar 
was a perfect blaze of light and magnificence. 

On arriving at our hotel^, we met a funeral 
procession coming out of it^ and were surprised to 
hear that it was the master of the house^ whom 
we then learned had died about the time of our 
arrival. We had noticed the appearance of anxiety 
which seemed to pervade the establishment. The 
chief waiter could speak very little Enghsh ; and 
he once imagined^ when we were speaking to 
him^ that we wanted a person to drive us in 
our coach across the Alps to Trieste! Presently 
he introduced a driver into our room ; and we had 
some difficulty in finding out what they wanted 
with us. 

On Tuesday mornings 5th October^ we rose before 
four o'clock, and although it was quite dark, we 
set out for the Glognitz railway station, walking 
through the city to the opposite suburbs. We 
fortunately found the way, and passed the city 
guards without being questioned. At the barrier 



STYRIAN ALPS. 



15 



outside tlie soiitliern suburbs^ an almostinterminable 
row of country waggons were standings waiting for 
their turn to be examined. This clumsy method 
of raising taxes — "from produce entering the towns 
— ^is very general throughout the continent. The 
train started at six o^clock; and_, though the morning 
was fine^ we felt the cold very much in the exposed 
carriages. The country appeared more thickly 
populated than on the north side of the city. Large 
vineyards spread out on every side^ and beautiful 
villas and villages abounded. We arrived at 
Glognitz about noon^ and were transferred to the 
post carriage,, in which we crossed a portion of 
the Styrian Alps. The scenery was exceedingly 
interesting^ and I enjoyed walking up the steeper 
ascents. Romantic villages were nestled in many 
a sheltered corner^ where the clear mountain stream 
ghded peacefully by^ reposing ere it dashed under a 
mill^ and went foaming and struggling to the valleys 
below. These pleasant spots — the alpine cottages 
beautifully white and clean^ backed by verdant hills^ 
and surrounded with pretty gardens— suggested to 
our minds thoughts of rural happiness. On every 
hand were high wooded summits^ and above these^ 
the snow-covered mountains glistened in the sun. 
The people appeared simple and contented, and 
the careful cultivation of the ground showed their 
industry. After passing Murzzuschlag we were 
transferred to the railway, 150 miles long, which 
connects that town and Cilly, following the winding 
course of a most interesting alpine valley for the 



16 



JOXJRXEY TO TRIESTE. 



greater part of the w^j — passing the towns of Brack 
Gratz^ and Marbnrg. Nothing could exceed the 
beauty of this pastoral valley^ every few minutes 
revealing fresh combinations of scenery^ the features 
of which were generally a fine flowing serpentine 
river^ rich pastures^ alpine cottages^ and mountains 
verdant to their summits. The evening closed 
upon us ere we arrived at Cilly^ and when we got 
there^ we started immediately by the post carriage^ 
over the high mountainous district between that 
town and Trieste. The traffic along the Hne of 
road over which we were travelHng is very great^ 
ana the Austrian government has made railways 
where practicable^ and excellent winding roads over 
the higher mountain passes. Throughout the 
next day we were travelling amidst scenery of the 
most interesting and romantic character. The 
people seemed a simple race^ with pecuhar dress ; 
and spoke a primitive language of their own. In 
the afternoon we passed through Adelsburg^ near 
which is the celebrated grotto of that name j and 
we were sorry that we could not stay to visit it. 
It was not until midnight that we reached Trieste^ 
thoroughly wearied with our journey. We were 
taken to an hotel named ^^11 Pelegrino/' where we 
soon lost ourselves in the land of forgetfulness. 

Brightly shone the sun through the Venetian 
blinds the next morning_, and dehcious was the soft 
and bright Itahan atmosphere after our experience 
of the colds of Germany. Issuing forth_, we were 
soon on the pier^, gazing on the silvery surface of 



TRIESTE. 



17 



the Adriatic^ dotted over with vessels becabaed^ 
motionless as the waters beneath them. The docks 
appeared crowded mth vessels^ and tokens of high 
commercial prosperity were seen on every hand. 
Splendid buildings lined the streets^ and all was 
clean and new and imposing. 

It was quite a pleasui^e to stroll through the 
market. The grotesque figures of the country 
people^ the masses of gi'apes and other fruits piled 
up in rich profusion^ the quantities of fish — some 
swimming in their native element^ — all attracted 
our notice; and how pleasant it was to load ourselves 
with a pound of dehcious grapes for a penny. 

On enquiry, we found that we should have to wait 
until the following Tuesday, and so we had nearly 
a week to remain in Trieste. The weather continued 
very fine, and we enjoyed om-selves in seeing the 
objects of interest around us. Among other things 
new to us was the use of oxen for drawing waggons 
of merchandise. We had seen them so employed 
on the road by which we had come from Vienna ; 
and here their use was universal. There Avas a 
square in Trieste ahnost constantly filled with the 
oxen yoked to their primitive waggons, waiting for 
employment, — the oxen lazily ruminating as they 
lay on the ground. And on the quays, they were 
seen patiently toihng with loads, over the smooth 
granite pavement, for which horses would have 
been most unequal. 



CHAPTER II. 



VOYAGE DOWN THE ADRIATIC. CORFU. SYRA.— 

SMYRNA & BOUJA RHODES CYPRUS.— BEYROOT. 

On Tuesday afternoon (12tli October) we went on 
board the steamer II Mabmudie.^^ We found 
tbe secoi\d-cabin accommodation very superior^ 
and our fellow-passengers in it of a higher class 
than is met with in the second cabin of Enghsh 
steamers. Mr. Lowthian was much pleased to see 
a friend of his (Mr. Railton of Carlisle) come on 
boards and who^ we had heard, was about to visit 
Palestine. He told us that he was only going as 
far as Corfu in the steamer^ but that we might 
expect to see him in Palestine in the following 
March. It was about five o^ clock when the paddles 
began to move^ and we lost sight of land amidst 
all the mellowed splendour of an Italian sunset. 

During our voyage we kept very near the 
Dalmatian shore^ which appeared to us dismally 
barren and mountainous. Looking eastward we 
could occasionally descry the bold outline of the 
mountains of Italy. The greater portion of the 
passengers were our countrymen^ some travelling 
to Egypt and Palestine^ and others bound for 
India. There were also some Enghsh Officers 
going to Corfu ; and these latter had a young fox 
on boards the feeding of which with a fowl 



VOYAGE. CORFU. 



19 



occasionally appearing to delight them much. We 
had pleasure in forming an acquaintance ^th Mr. 
Lee^ a clergyman^ who^ like ourselves^ was on a 
journey to the Land of Israel. The weather 
generally continued very fine^ though we had a httle 
sickness on board on the second day of our voyage. 

We entered the harboui^ of Corfu on the 
morning of the 14th^ and remained several hours 
taking in coal. Several of the passengers landed, 
and the fierce-looking Greek boatmen contended 
savagely with each other for them. Leading 
Corfu, om' course was by the coast and amongst 
the islands of Albania and Greece. The 
mountains were picturesque, and beautiful in the 
distance, but a nearer view revealed their naked 
sterility. The voyage continued pleasant until 
Sunday morning, when we were opposite the 
southern extremity of Peninsular Greece. Goino; 
on deck in the morning, the wind was so great 
and the ship pitched so much, that I could scarcely 
stand without holding. Every now and then the 
sea broke over the vessel. Very few of the 
passengers were free from sickness. The storm 
continued all the day ; and after the night had set 
in, the captain sought for shelter in the harbour of 
an island, which some one on board had told him of — 
for this was our captain^ s first voyage as commander 
in the Mediterranean. There was no one on board 
who had been in the harbour but the English 
engineer j and we searched (by moonhght) in vain 
along the bold front of the island, for about half 



20 SYRA WALK THROUGH THE TOWN. 

an hour^ without discovering the narrow inlet we 
were in search of. Continuing our voyage^ after a 
stormy nighty we reached Syra next morning. 
We were glad to go on shore^ and we enjoyed a 
capital breakfast at the hotel in the town; and 
tasted the much lauded aromatic honey of Greece. 
We there met with a party of Englishmen^ who 
were going to travel up the Nile and across the 
desert to Syria. We were here joined by Mr. 
Rutherford^ a London shipowner^ who was in the 
same cabin with us^ and was excellent company. 
He went on shore with me the second day of our 
stay at Syra^ and we had a long ramble through 
the town. The lower portion near the sea has quite 
a commercial aspect^ and ship-building is carried 
on to a considerable extent. Mr. Rutherford was 
amazed at the slight build of their vessels. Having 
breakfasted in the street on grapes and breads we 
visited the upper town^ built on the side of a steep 
stony declivity^ and could scarcely proceed through 
the narrow dirty passages^ the only substitutes for 
streets. When we reached the summit,, we entered 
the Church of St. George there^ but saw nothing 
worthy of notice. There is only one well to supply 
the whole town with water^ and it is over the hill. 
Great numbers of girls and children are continually 
going to and returning from this well ; and at the 
street corners of the lower town^ persons are 
standing retaiUng water to the thirsty passers by. 

As we were returning^ between the upper and 
the lower town^ we went into a large school-room^ 



CHURCH MISSIONARY SCHOOL. 



21 



where a number of children were being tanght. 
The teacher^ who was a Greek^ thongh in Frank dress, 
was very pohte to us_, and handed ns chairs. He 
took several classes whilst we were there, but only 
one or two in each class appeared able to ansAver 
questions, and they had often to be assisted. The 
singing, however, was beautiful. The teacher could 
not speak English, but we afterwards found that 
the school was in connection with our Church 
Missionary Society. 

Syra is said to be the largest town in Greece, 
although its population probably does not exceed 
15,000. Twenty years ago it was a nest of pii^ates. 
There appears no hope of the restoration to Greece 
of any of her ancient glory. Whilst her mountains 
are lying waste, and her highways a prey to the 
violent, the enterprising of her sons emigrate, and, 
abhorring agriculture, are found as shopkeepers and 
artificers in all the towns of the Levant. They 
are a clever people, but generally dishonest. 

On Wednesday evening, the storm having quite 
subsided, we sailed out of the harbour of Syra, and 
our course was amidst the islands of the Archipelago. 
The scene was beautiful, as the setting sun tinted 
these numerous islets, and thi^ew its mellowed golden 
rays over the unruffled silvery deep. During the 
night, we were near ^^the isle that is called Patmos,^' 
where, unto the beloved disciple, were revealed 

things that must shortly come to pass.^^ The 
next morning, we anchored opposite the chief town 
of the beautiful island of Scio or Chios, which was 



22 



ARRIVE AT SMYRNA. 



famed for its fertility previous to the barbarous 
massacre of its entire population by tbe Turks during 
the Greek war. About noon we had Mitylene on 
our left as we entered the bay of Smyrna ; and 
as evening drew on^ we were approaching that 
celebrated city. 

The first view of an Eastern city conveys 
impressions so novel and exciting as never to be 
afterwards forgotten. Smyrna was truly splendid 
to look upon as it then lay before us^ gently rising 
from the sea at the head of its capacious bay. The 
setting sun illumined its countless domes and 
minarets^ making them stand out in fine contrast 
with the dark masses of cypress trees behind ; and 
on the summit of the green hill beyond^ the ancient 
castle^ imposing though in ruins^ crowned the 
magnificent picture. We cast anchor amidst 
ships of all nations^ and were glad to hear the 
speech of our fatherland from amidst the boats that 
surrounded our vessel. 

Early the next mornings we landed and took up 
our abode at the inn of a Maltese named Salvo, 
who spoke a little English. After breakfasting, 
we rambled forth to view the city. We were soon 
m the Turk bazaar, amidst scenes and objects 
realizing the pictures drawn in the mind by the 
eastern tales of our youth. We were in a 
rudely constructed narrow arcade, barely admitting 
sufficient light, crowded with people in strange and 
various costume; each side consisting of small 
square rooms about a yard higher than the street, 



SMYRNA BAZAAR. 



23 



and entirely open at the front. Within each sat a 
bearded and turbaned shopkeeper, gravely smoking 
his pipe, seated like a tailor on his board, and 
surrounded with his httle stock. Before we were 
aware, a long string of camels were at our side 
nearly touching us ; carefully picking their way 
amongst trays of sweetmeats, which here and there 
almost obstructed the way. Some bazaars were 
entkely occupied with drapers^ shops, others with 
pots ; further on there was the fig bazaar, and then 
one filled with miscellaneous traders — grocers, 
tobacco dealers, &c. All the grocers^ shops 
appeared to be kept by cunning clever-looking 
Greeks. As we went along the street, we were at 
once seen to be strangers, and moreover known as 
Englishmen; for a man came up to us in full 
eastern costume, having a long flowing dress, and 
a dark turban, and most pohtely bid us good 
morning.^^ He wished to conduct us round the 
city, and was at once for installing himself unbidden 
as our guide and interpreter. When we had with 
difficulty got quit of this gentleman, one after 
another came to us as we rambled fui^ther, all 
knowing at a glance that we were Enghshmen. 
Figs and grapes were in great abundance, the 
former about threepence, and the latter a penny 
a pound. 

On inquiry respecting the steamers, we found to 
our sorrow that we should have to wait three weeks 
at Smvrna before the next steamer started for 
Bevi^oot. 



24 



MR. LEWIS. SMYRNA. 



On Sunday (24tli October) we went to tte chapel 
attached to the British consulate^, where we heard 
the truth faithfully preached by Mr. Lewis^ the 
chaplain. We were especially glad to hear from his 
lips the great truth of the second coming of Christ 
to introduce his millennial kingdom. This was 
drinking of the brook by the way^ and that in aland 
where we had looked for no water. There were 
few present^ but we found afterwards that very few 
of the Smyrna-English population lived in the 
city. When we came out of the churchy Mr. 
Lowthian introduced himself to Mr. Lewis^ who 
seemed much interested on hearing of our journey. 
He called on us a few days after this^ and seeing 
we were not very comfortable_,he most kindly invited 
us to stay a short time with him in Bouja — a few 
miles out of the city^ and it was arranged we should 
return with him on Friday. 

On the intervening days^ we saw a good deal of 
Smyrna. The streets^ even in the Frank quarter 
are crooked and narrow. Next to the Turkish^ the 
Italian language is the most spoken^ and a large 
number of the population are of Italian descent. 
Many of the houses of Europeans are very splendid 
residences^, built in the Italian style^ with courtyards 
in which vines and orauge-trees were growing. 
The Greeks are very numerous in Smyrna^ and their 
coffee-houses abound in some parts. These 
locandas^^ were generally well filled with Greeks^ 
drinking^ disputing^ or playing cards. The Greeks 
are said to carry long knives concealed in their 



RIDE TO BOUJA. 



25 



garments, and not -anfreq-aently murder is com- 
mitted at tlieir midnight brawls. The Greek 
population is said to be not less than from 20,000 
to 30,000. 

On Friday evening we met Mr. Lewis, and Mr. 
Lowthian and I being mounted on donkeys, we 
started with him for Bonja. Many were the 
turnings we had to make in going thi'ongh the 
narrow streets. We soon emerged to the snbnrbs 
and passed the famous caravan bridge, which 
spans the ancient Meles, a small stream, on whose 
banks Homer is said to have been born. Long 
trains of camels are continually passing over this, 
bringing the produce of the interior to Smyrna. 
Beyond the bridge the road passed between 
Turkish burial grounds, thickly covered with the 
dark tall cypress tree ; and under their gloomy 
shade were multitudes of small head stones, covered 
with Turkish inscriptions, and generally sui^mounted 
with a turban neatly chiseled in stone, and often 
painted. Leaving these the road led thi'ough a 
beautiful narrow valley. In some places the Turk 
labourers were ploughing, and in. others the crop 
was appearing above the ground. The richness 
and fertiht}' of the soil is great ; one field being 
shown us where the young corn was a few inches 
high, which Mr. Lewis said had only been sown 
at the beginning of the week. As in Syria, the 
crop is grown in winter and reaped in the spring. 
On reaching the summit of a hill, we passed under 
the ruins of an ancient arch, and from thence we 



26 



BOUJA. 



saw the beautiful \dllage of Bouja^ partly embosomed 
in verdure^ over which, many stately cypresses 
towered high. We arrived at dusk^ having enjoyed 
our ride and Mr. Lewises conversation much^ and 
we were most kindly received by Mrs. Lewis. We 
met at dinner two missionaries of the Church 
Missionary Society^ and spent a pleasant and profi- 
table evening. When we left home we little expected 
to find the elegancies and refinements of Enghsh 
social life in a village of Asia Minor_, and it was 
pleasing to find in such a spot brethren in Christy 
with whom we could have sweet intercourse^ and, 
morning and evenings unite with in drawing 
near to the throne of grace. Mr Walters, one of 
the missionaries, said that the Mushm Turks 
appeared quite inaccessible, not an instance being 
known of a conversion from among them : the 
Armenians were more open to the truth, and to 
them were their future labours to be directed. 

On Sabbath morning, at the sound of the 
church-going bell,^^ we repaired, with our kind 
friends, to their neat and commodious chapel. 
The congregation consisted of about sixty persons. 
Every thing reminded us of home, and we could 
scarcelv realize that we were so far from it. The 
singing was delightful, aided by a seraphine on 
which Miss Lewis played. Mr. Lewis preached — 
he and Mr. Walters alternately preaching there 
and at Smyrna — and his sermon was at once 
spiritual and scriptural. 

On Monday we joined a party in riding a few 



BOUJA. 



27 



miles to a place from whence water was being 
conducted to the village. Inconvenience having 
been felt for want of water during several previous 
summers^ Enghsh enterprise and spirit was aroused^ 
a firman was got from the Sultan at considerable 
expense^ a company was formed^ and laboui^ers were 
then engaged in conducting water^ from a never- 
failing springs for several miles over a wild 
uninhabited country. And it was pleasing to hear 
that the poor of the ^illage^ who suffer the most in 
a droughty will be supplied with this precious fluid 
in unlimited quantities without charge. Our party 
consisted of two Mr. Barkers^ merchants_, and Mr. 
"Williamson, a young gentleman lately from 
England^ besides Mr. Lewis and ourselves. We 
had a very pleasant ride amidst wild pictui^esque 
scenery. A place was shewn us where a bandit 
chief, only a few years ago, had his retreat : it was 
at the top of a narrow steep incline, backed by 
precipitous rocks, where a few armed men could 
securelv withstand the attack of a considerable 
force. In little more than an houi' we arrived at 
the end of our journey, where a large spring of the 
purest water was issuing from the rock. The work 
had only been recently commenced, and a number 
of men were at work on the spot. The manager was 
an old Greek ; and seeing no instruments near the 
place, I asked how he managed to find the levels. 
Mr. Lewis asked him, and we were all surprised to 
hear that he was making his channel by guessing 
with the eye. An English engineer would scarely 



28 



BOUJA. 



undertake to conduct water in an open channel for 
many miles through, an irregular undulating country 
in this manner; but the old man — ^who was 
labouring with the rest — had no doubts of his 
ultimate success. I hope that ere this they are 
enjoying the fruit of their labours at Bouja. After 
drinking of the excellent water^ we returned another 
way. In Asia Minor there are no laws of trespass, 
and we could go where we would. In many respects 
Englishmen enjoy greater liberty in Turkey than 
in England. There are no game laws_, and, what is 
better, no taxes to pay. 

The country appeared almost uninhabited, and 
consequently the land is nearly valueless. We 
heard of some large tracts of country in the interior 
which had been sold, or were for sale, at about 2|d. 
per acre. The title by which an European would 
hold it is certainly not very good, but many of the 
English of Bouja have ventured to purchase 
property, which they have all done in the name of 
their wives. 

After a few days stay at Mr. Lewises we removed 
to lodgings in the house of a Greek named Jeorge. 
Our accommodation there was ratlier after a 
primitive fashion, but we preferred remaining at 
Bouja rather than returning to the noise and bustle 
of Smyrna. 

On the following Monday, Mr. Lowthian and I 
visited the ruins of the ancient castle of Smvrna. 
In our way we crossed the narrow deep valley of 
the Meles on the top of one ofthe old Aqueducts— 



SMYRNA CASTLE. 



29 



whicli yet conducts a fine stream of water to 
Smyrna. The top was veiy narrow^ and a single 
false step might have sent us into the abyss beneath. 
I think we would not have ventured across^ if we 
had not seen two Greeks^ who were gathering 
mushrooms, cross in safety before us. We found 
the ruins of the castle very extensive, but not being 
antiquarians, we were more pleased with the 
magnificent prospect which there presented itself. 
Smyrna lay at our feet ; beyond was the spacious 
bay j and on every hand the view was extensive_, 
bounded by distant mountains whose tops mingled 
with the clouds. In returning by another way, we 
came to a place called Paradiso —from its beauty. 
Then we came to a new Greek convent; said to be 
built over the ruins of an ancient church — whose 
locahty had been revealed to a man in a dream ! 

The day after we bid adieu to our friends at 
Bouja, and retmmed to the hotel at Smyrna, to 
prepare for the voyage to Beyroot. On Thm'sday 
afternoon (11th October) we went on board the 
steamer Archduke Giovanni,^^ and before evening 
came on, we were moving rapidly over the smooth 
waters of the bay, towards our final destination. 
We were told that this vessel was usuallv verv much 
crowded with deck passengers — Russian pilgrims, 
Jews, and Turks ; but the steamers from Constan- 
tinople having been thrown into quarantine on their 
arrival at Smyrna, on account of the reported 
appearance of the cholera at the former place, we had 
comparatively few deck passengers on board. And 



30 



VOYAGE RHODES. 



•when we sawthe dreadful filtLiness of some of the few 
we had^ we were glad their number was not greater. 

On the morning of the 13th_, when we went on 
deck^ we found ourselves anchored in the harhour 
of Rhodes. The scene was most striking. The 
harbour was almost encircled with ancient battle- 
ments ; over the top of which were seen in 
beautiful combination^ palm trees^ domes^ and 
minarets^ with mountains in the back ground_, — all 
illumined by the fresh rays of the rising sun. 
Behind us^ at the narrow entrance of the harbour^ 
was the place where the famed brazen colossus stood. 
As the scene was so imiting^ and the steamer 
having to stay a considerable time,, we took a boat 
and went on shore. Entering through a massive 
gateway^ we were at once in the bazaar^ many of the 
shops of which were still closed. We rambled 
through several streets lined with ancient-looking 
houses — every thing betokening the high antiquity 
of the place. We visited also the ancient fortifica- 
tions and towers^ which surrounded the town. 
Immense stone cannon-balls were lying about^ some 
of them nearly two feet in diameter : and massive 
pillars were prostrate on the ground. Amidst the 
decay and ruin around^ tokens of the former 
importance of this stronghold of the Knights of St. 
John were everywhere apparent. Before going on 
boards we passed again through the bazaar^ and 
bought some oranges^ at an almost nominal price. 
In the afternoon we were again steaming towards 
the promised land. The following day was the 



TOYAGE CYPRUS. 



31 



Sabbath^ during Trliicli we were stiil favoui^ed with 
delightful weather. At sunset we were saihng 
^^under Cyprus/^^ and expected to reach Lamaca^ on 
the eastern side of the island^ early in the morning. 

Duiing this voyage^ we were much interested 
with observing the many vaiieties of habits^ forms 
of devotion^ and languages of om' fellow-passengers. 
Amongst the deck passengers were some Mahom- 
etanSj who at the appointed hours went thi'ough a 
great number of gesticulations^ bowings with the 
head^ and prostrations. Some Sclaronians were 
equally regular in observing the forms of devotion 
of the Greek church. In om^ cabin we had 
a Greek priest^, and a Roman Catholic monk. 
The former was a fat man^ and coming nearly 
the last on board at Smvrna, had Hobson^s 
choice of some small berths^ in which he could 
scarcely accommodate his large proportions at 
night : so he slept on the seat in front of the berths^ 
with his feet on the table ; and we could hear him 
groaning and grumbling dming the nights at his 
miserable position. He was a surly ill-bred fellow. 
The monk was a Frenchman^ and was a pchte and 
communicative man. Attached to his hempen 
girdle was a small ivorj^ skull^ in addition to the 
usual cross. On Friday and Satmxlay he rigidly 
fasted_, and his countenance lost none of its compla- 
cency when he saw the others descending to the 
well-spread table. A little coi-pulent Frenchman^ 
however, seemed sorely tried^ vainly trying to stifle 
the thoughts of soup by intense labour at his missal. 

1 Acts xxvii. 4. 



CHAPTER III. 



BEYROOT. JOURNEY UP LEBANON. SCRIPTURE 

NOTICES OF LEBANON. — -BEYROOT. 

On Tuesday mornings November 16^ our voyage 
terminated^ and our feet rested on the promised 
land. I rose early^ about an hour before sunrise, 
and found we were slowly approaching Beyroot. 
The dark masses of goodly Lebanon^^ rose imme- 
diately before us, standing out in strong rehef from 
the gilded eastern sky. When we were anchored 
opposite Beyroot, and the sun had risen, the beauty 
and rich verdure of the scene filled us with surprise 
and pleasure. We had heard much of the barren- 
ness of the) land, but here all was beauty and 
fertility. The view of Beyroot from the sea is most 
striking. The town rises gradually from the shore, 
— ^its ruined fortresses in strange contrast with the 
new fresh-looking buildings around, and with the 
busy stir of commerce along its little quay. Around 
the town, mulberry gardens appeared to occupy all 
the ground, and amidst them rose neat white stone 
houses in very great numbers. The whole was sur- 
rounded by a range of small heights, thickly wooded, 
and picturesque. 

A little after sunrise we were visited by crowds 
of boats ; and innkeepers and dragomen — speaking 
almost every European language — rushed on board. 



LAND AT BEYROOT. 



33 



pouncing upon tlie unfortunate traveller ; wlio liere 
runs tlie risk of being separated^ by some anxious 
innkeeper^ from Ms companions and his luggage. 
Mr. LowtHan recognised bis old servant Nicolo^ 
who took us to an Arab innkeeper^ and we all went 
together to his hotel— a house about a mile to the 
west of Beyroot^ by the sea shore. Our host^ 
Antonio^ spoke English pretty fluently. The 
character of the people was sadly at variance with 
the beauty of the country. We found the Arabs 
emulating each other in endeavouring to cheat us. 
After breakfast^ we walked through the bazaars of 
Beyroot. They were in some respects like those of 
Smyrna ; but the streets were narrower^ and the 
shopkeepers almost all Arabs. Only few Greeks 
were to be seen. Some parts of Beyroot are very 
old^ and many principal streets in some places lead 
under low arches,, almost dark. We went to the 
different packet offices — English^ French^ and 
Austrian — expecting to find letters^ but were 
disappointed in our search. 

We had partly determined^ whilst at Smyrna, 
to fix our abode^ for a time at leasts on Lebanon ; 
and had got a letter from Mr. Lewis to the 
American Missionaries at Beyroot^ who have also 
an estabhshment at Arbeh, a village on the front of 
Lebanon^ about four or five hours from Beyroot 
in a South-east direction. We called on Mr. 
Thompson, at the Mission, and got from him a 
letter to his brethren in the mountains — where we 
intended to go the next day. I may here remark^ 



34 



MAH0ME1?AN FESTIVAL. 



that we found it rather uncomfortably warm at 
Beyroot^ notwithstanding that it was winter. 

Early the next morning we started with horses 
and guide for Arbeh. The morning was beautiful 
and clear, and it was delightful to inhale the 
sea breeze, as we rode along the beach towards 
Beyroot. After passing through the town, we came 
to a large open ground outside the walls, and were 
surprised by seeing great numbers of the Mahom- 
etan population — especially women and children 
—enjoying themselves much in the same way as 
English children do at a country fair. There were 
whirligigs and swings going at full speed, in which 
the youthful followers of the prophet were most 
complacently seated. On enquiry we found that it 
was a Mahometan festiyp^J^ which lasted several 
days. As we were crossing the square, a camel 
which was just before us broke loose from its 
conductor, frightened with the motion of a flying 
carriage ; Mr. Lowthian^s horse also commenced 
rearing and plunging, and I was afraid Mr. L. 
would have been dismounted. We entered here 
a narrow lane, leading due south, lined with hedges 
of the prickly pear. Mulberry trees appeared to 
occupy all the ground on both sides, and here, as 
elsewhere, numerous white stone cottages peeped 
up from among the masses of dark green fohage. 
Orange trees, laden with their golden fruit, were 
seen at intervals, and numbers of large vines 
overhung the road, supported by high trees. The 
grapes had all been taken long before. Presently 



RIDE UP LEBANON. 



35 



we emerged into a plain of sand^ in which a great 
number of pines were growing. This plain^ only a 
few years ago^ was almost covered with fine old trees ; 
but only a few of these are left^ which testify^ by their 
size and height^, to the quality and depth of the soil. 

We then turned our faces more to the eastward^ 
and began to ascend a little,, through a large olive 
grove, which is said to extend for seven miles along 
the foot of Lebanon. As we got higher, the roads 
became worse, and in many places I dismounted, 
not venturing to ride over them. The roads all 
over Lebanon are dreadful. Mr. Lowthian said 
that they were far worse than the road betwixt 
Jaffa and Jerusalem, of which he has given an 
account in his work. 

"We were surprised at the number of villages seen 
on every hand as we rose higher up the sides of 
Lebanon; and we frequently passed road-side 
khans or cafes. The mountain sides were generally 
very steep and very stony, and terraced to the 
summit. In some few places there were small plots 
of ground sufficiently level for the growth of grain, 
and we saw several mountaineers guiding their 
primitive ploughs. On the terraces, the vine and 
other fruits, and mulberry trees, seemed to thrive. 
At one place a shepherd was leading a flock of sheep, 
and playing on a shepherd^s pipe. Though we had 
often read descriptions of this eastern custom, yet 
the first sight of this beautiful illustration of our 
Saviour^s Parable^ was at once touching and 

I John X. 



36 



LEBANON. 



pleasing. A village was shewn ns^ to our left^ where 
a fellow-countn^nian_, Mr. Scott_, had established 
works for spinning silk. As we ascended higher 
and higher onr view kept extending^ and the blue 
sea appeared to rise in the far distant horizon^ there 
to meet and mingle as one with the cloudless sky. 
The air was most transparent^ and much cooler than 
on the plain. Our horses were very poor ones and 
we made little progress. We rested for some time 
at a road-side khan^ and were cheated in trying to 
buy some grain^ to give our horses a feed in the 
middle of their journey — contrary to all use and 
custom in the east. Broken straw mixed with 
barley is the universal food of horses and mules^ 
and the poor donkeys generally have only straw 
given them. 

The afternoon was far advanced when we got to 
Arbeh^ which we found to be a populous village, 
^^e went immediately to the American Mission 
premises^ where we were kindly received and enter- 
tained. Mr. Whitings the senior missionary^ was 
at Beyroot ; and we found that we had met him^ 
without knowing him. Mrs. Whiting gave us 
many interesting particulars respecting the mission. 
Mr. and Mrs. W. were formerly stationed at 
Jerusalem^ and were there for many years when no 
other Protestant missionary was at that city. 
Associated with Mr. W. at Arbeh is Dr. Vandyke^ a 
physician^ whom we found in a feeble state of health. 
We were told that he was proficient in the Arabic 
language— in the vulgar Arabic of the fellah— 



FERTILITY OP LEBANON. 



37 



— in tlie more polished Arabic of the mercliant — 
and in the classical Arabic of the learned. We 
could not but admire his unpretending and gentle- 
manly manners^ his piety^ and his extensive learning 
and information. During the evening several of 
the villagers met us at Dr. V^s house^ whom we 
asked^ through the Dr.^ if there was a place to let 
such as we wanted. The answers were all unsatis- 
factory. Dr. Vandyke mentioned several other 
villages which he thought would suit us ; especially 
Behoura — a few hours distant to the north — which 
belonged to Colonel Churchill^ an Enghsh gentle- 
man : who was making great improvements; and 
who they thought would be glad to have European 
residents in his village. 

Next morning we took lea\e of our kind friends 
and began to descend towards Beyroot. Both as 
we went and returned^ we were struck with the 
fertility of Lebanon^ notwithstanding the general 
steepness of the ground. The soil seemed rich^ of 
a reddish colour^ and of a loose^ friable nature. 
The promised fertihty of Lebanon is even now 
partially fulfilled. The mountains are beginning 
to ^^drop down new wine^^^ and to give tokens of 
the approach of that time when Lebanon shall be 
turned into a fruitful field.^''^ 

It is remarkable how full scripture is of allusions 
to Lebanon^ although Israel possessed but a small 
part of it. It was included in the wide and good land 

1 Joel ill. 18.— " The v^ine of Lebanon'' fnabeed jehelj is higblj 
esteenicd, and is abundaut and cheap. 

2 Isa. xxix. 17. 



38 SCRIPTURE NOTICES OF LEBANON. 



promised to Abraham and his seed^ and Israelis not 
possessing it did not lessen its scriptural importance. 
In Dent. iii. 25 Ave are told that Moses^ a little 
before his deaths longed to go over and see the 
good land west of the J ordan ; also that goodly- 
mountain^^ (probably Mount Sion or Hermon) and 
Lebanon^ which lay northward. In the following 
chapter we see the principal mountain of the 
Lebanon range identified with Sion — Mount Sion 
which is Hermon^^i The cedars of Lebanon were 
the trees chosen for the building of the temple. 
In beautiful figurative language^, Lebanon and 
Sirion (Mount Hermon) are represented as skipping 
like a young unicorn in the universal rejoicing of 
ImmanueFs land at the return of its king to reign; ^ 
and under his dominion we read that there 
shall be a handful of corn in the earth on the top 
of the mountains^ — the fruit thereof shall shake like 
Lebanon and then all nations shall call him 
blessed. 

Mount Hermon^ in Lebanon, is also referred to 
in the 68th Psalm as the Hill of Bashan''^ 

'* The hill of God— -the hill of Bashan, 

An high hill — the hill of Bashan. 

Why leap ye, ye high hills, 

The hill God desireth to dwell in. 

Yea the Lord will dwell [in it] for ever." — Ps. Ixviii. 15, 16. 

By reference to this Psalm, it wiU be seen that 
this shaU be fulfilled at the time when the Lord 
shall ^^arise^^ and scatter his enemies^^ — when 

lDeut.iv.48. 2Ps. xxix. 6. 3 Ps. Ixxii. 16. 4 See Deut. iii. and iv. 



HERMON AND ZION IDENTIFIED. 



39 



He to wliom belongs the Kingdom^ shall take unto 
himself his great power and reign : and then^ as we 
have seen^ Lebanon is to be^ in an especial manner^ 
the seat of power and blessing. Then Tabor and 
Hermon shall rejoice in the name of the Lord -} 
and then shall his people as brethren dwell together 
in unity and the blessedness of such a state is 
compared (verse 3) to the dew of Hermon that 
descended upon the mountains of Sion^ for there 
the Lord commanded the blessing — life for ever- 
more/^ This psalm^ it will be perceived^ also identifies 
the Sion of prophecy with Mount Hermon^ and 
indicates it as the place of future blessing. In 
Canticles we have the same truth opened out^ — the 
bridegroom abiding in the top of Lebanon and inviting 
his spouse to go with him from the top of Shenir^ 
and Hermon.^ 

The smell of Lebanon/^ the streams from 
Lebanon/^ and the cedars of Lebanon/^ were so 
famed through Israel that they served to illustrate 
what was enduring and beautiful. Returning 
Israel, it is written, will cast forth his roots as 
Lebanon/^ and his smell is to be as Lebanon. The 

glory of Lebanon^^ is also twice referred to by 
the prophet Isaiah. In the restoration, Lebanon 
is to become as a fruitful field and all the 
glory of its fruitfulness is to come, saith the 
Lord, ^^to beautify the place of my sanctuary,^^^ 
which is to be called ''the city of the Lord,'^ 

1 Ps, Ixxxix. 12. 2 Ps. cxxxiii. 3 Deut. iii. 9. 4 Cant. iv. 8. 
§ Isaiah xxix. X7, 6 Isaiah Ix. 13. 



40 LEBANON THE PLACE OF FUTURE BLESSING. 



the Zion of the Holy One of Israer' — (verse 14). 
Bearing all this in mind, there can be little doubt 
that Lebanon and IMount Hermon are referred 
to in the 2nd chapter of Isaiah, — And it shall 
come to pass in the last days that the mountain of 
the Lord's house shall be estabHshed in the top of 
the mountains, and shall be exalted a.bove the 
hills ; and all nations shall flow into it. And many 
people shall go and say, Come ye and let us go up 
to the mountain of the Lord.'^ 

In the lamentation of Ezehiel upon the king of 
Tyre (who ruled over Lebanon), there is some most 
remarkable language used, which, in connexion 
with what we have already adduced, should lead us, 
in the light of Scripture, to regard with more inter- 
est this portion of the promised land. The king of 
Tyre is said to have been upon the holy mountain 
of God,^^ and to have been in Eden the garden 
of Godj'^ he being ^^the appointed cherub that 
coveretV (the one appointed to possess at that time 
this favoured spot). — See Ez. xxviii. 11-16. It 
is distinctly stated^ that returning Israel shall be 
brought into the Land of Gilead and Lebanon. 
^^For in mine holy mountain, in the mountain of the 
height of Israel, saith the Lord God, there shall all 
the house of Israel, all of them in the Land, serve 
me'' — (Ezek. xx. 40, — see also 3 following verses). 
And whilst Israel is being blessed in the North of 
the Land, we may expect that judgment will be 
inflicted in the South; for in the verses following 
the last quoted,^ the Prophet is directed to set his 

1 Zect. X. 10. 2 Ezekiel xx. 45. 



LADY HESTER STANHOPE. 



41 



face towards the south, and prophecy against the 
forest of the south field/^ which is to be burned with 
fire^ and "all faces from the north to the south 
shall be burned therein/^^ 

When we were at Arbeh_, we were not far from 
the Lebanon residence of Lady Hester Stanhope^ 
whose eccentricities have been the theme of so many 
writers. On the occasion of her death an account 
was pubhshed in the newspapers —which subsequent 
travellers in Syria have generally repeated — of her 
body having been found in the house,, forsaken by 
all her attendants ; who^ it was said, had carried 
every thing away with the exception of the orna- 
ments from her person. So far was this from being 
the case, that when Mr. Moore, the British consul, 
rode up from Beyroot on hearing of her illness, 
and found that she was dead, all the servants were 
still in the house, and her valuables, -mth the whole 
of her property, safe. It is difficult to account for 
the origin of the misstatements so long current, 
but they are entirely without foundation. 

As we were returning we travelled by another 
track, and passed through Shimlah, where Mr. Scott 
has his silk establishment. We found Mr. Scott an 
intelHgent gentleman, and enjoyed an interesting 
conversation with him and his accomphshed lady. 
He told us that the Maronite convents had got 
hold of a great part of the land in Lebanon; and a 
large proportion of the population were thus 
brought directly under the influence of the priests. 

1 Ez. XX. 47, 48 

e2 



43 



SHIMLAH — MK. SCOTT. 



These convents are peopled by Arab priests^, of the 
Maronite clmrch^ who are very much looked down 
upon by the Latin fathers of the convents in 
the south of the land. Mr. Scott confirmed what 
we had heard at Arbeh respecting the scarcity 
of water dui^ing several previous summers in 
Lebanon^ many disputes among the people having 
been occasioned bv this scarcitv. Mr. Scott^s 
was the third house in Lebanon in which we had 
found the refinements and luxuries of English 
social life; and when we left England, we had not 
any idea of seeing these things in such a place. 
The whole population of Lebanon is a settled 
one, and far superior in many respects to the 
inhabitants of any other district in Syiia. "We 
felt ourselves quite safe among them* Druses and 
Maronites form the chief part of the population. 
The latter Goli,siitute a corrupt eastern church, 
now in connection with Eome, and the former are 
a mysterious sect of Mahometans. Many of the 
poor Druse women wore the long silver horn 
projecting from their foreheads— from which their 
white vails were hung. From Mr. Scott^s house 
the view was splendid. The lower heights of 
Lebanon were in the foreground — dotted over with 
villages and convents. In the distance were the 
plain along the coast, the town and harbour of 
.Beyroot, and the wide spreading deep blue ocean. 

Every thing around us on our journey was new 
and interesting. The manners and dress of the 
people, the mode of agriculture, the appearance 



NATIVE COMPLIMENTS. 



43 



of the country — all were so different from our 
European experiences^ that we felt we were indeed 
far from home. The salutations on friends meeting 
were curious. On ordinary occasions^ the right 
hand was pressed to the heart as the words of 
salutation were uttered^ and particular friends 
embraced and kissed each other — ^just as we read 
of the patriarchs doings in this same country, 
four thousand years ago. It always struck me 
that they went thi'ough their comphments with 
a great increase of mock solemnity if a European 
was looking on. 

It was late in the evening when we arrived at 
our Inn, sorely wearied with our two days^ ride up 
and down the steep rocky paths of Lebanon. We 
'then began to think of spending the winter at 
Beyroot. It appeared a delightful place of abode, 
and suiTOunded with agreeablefHIIj^s in almost 
every direction. In the town we could at all times 
purchase articles of European luxury and con- 
venience, as well as the varied productions of the 
East ; and by hving outside the town, in the 
mulberry gardens, we should at the same time 
enjoy the advantages of pure air, and an agreeable 
situation. 

In the course of a fevr' days we succeeded in 
hiring a house on the east side of Beyi^oot, in a 
small mulbeny garden. The house belonged to 
a well known dra2:oman — Michael Hainey, who 
was a good specimen of his class — clever and ready, 
but without education. Though unable to write. 



44 



RESIDENCE AT BEYROOT. 



lie could speak about half a dozen languages^ 
his English being tolerably good. We were 
very pleasantly situated^ about twenty yards 
from the edge of a high precipice^ at the foot 
of which the long swell of the Mediterranean 
unceasingly broke. The house fronted northward^ 
towards the sea^ and our prospect^ as we sat in the 
house^ was splendid ; embracing the range of mighty 
Lebanon^ which extended parallel to the coast as 
far as the eye could reach. From the house-top 
our view was still more extended and beautiful. 
Looking west and souths the town and its far- 
extending suburbs^ mingled with the rich foliage 
of the mulberry trees^ lay before us ; and eastward 
the majestic range of Lebanon reared its many 
heads^ some of them capped with ghstening snow. 

We took an early opportunity of calhng on Mr. 
Moore^ the IH|pcpnsul ; who introduced us to 
Colonel Rose^ the consul general. We were much 
pleased by the kind and courteous behaviour of 
both. When conversing with them on the land, 
they spoke in high terms of the natural fertihty 
of the soil. 

On the first Sabbath after our arrival, we attended 
the English service, which was held every Sunday 
morning, at the American Mission house. There 
was a larger congregation present than might have 
been expected, including a number of the native 
population — some of whom were conversant with 
our language. The preacher was Mr. Bentham, 
a young missionary who had just arrived from 



MR. WINBOLT. JEWS AT BEYROOT. 45 



America^ and was about to proceed to Aleppo. 
Besides theEnglisti service at the American Mission 
honse^ there is also another^ held at the same time 
every Sunday^ at the house of Mr. Winbolt^ an 
English clergyman^ who is the agent at Beyroot of 
the London Jews^ Society; and also^ I believe, of 
the Bible Society. When we arrived in Beyroot 
he was absent in Lebanon^ but after the lapse of a 
few Sundays he returned^ and resumed his services. 
We usually attended them during our stay at 
Beyroot^ and met there almost all the English 
residents : altogether perhaps a dozen families. 
With Mr. Winbolt we afterwards had much agree- 
able intercourse. The number of Jews at Beyroot 
is not very great^ probably imder 2C0. They are not 
like the poor hungered J erusalem J ews^ who are 
mostly from Germany and Poland^ but are Eastern 
Jews^ engaged in business. Mr. Winbolt^ like 
most other missionaries to the Jews^ preaches the 
second coming of Christ to reign with his saints in 
his millennial kingdom. If a missionary were to go 
among the J ews^ and explain away and spiritualize — 
like so many of our ministers at home — all the 
predictions of the Old Testament on this subject, 
his labours would certainly be in vain. He would 
undermine the only ground on which he could prove 
the Messiahs humiliation — that he must needs 
^^have suffered these things^^ which our Saviour 
suffered before he entered into his glory .^^ 

Having got comfortably settled^ we had leisure 
to look about us. We were living among the 



46 



NATIVE CUSTOMS. 



native population^ and were daily extending our 
acquaintance with their manners and customs^ and, i 
at the same time^ acquiring a few words of their 
language. Our immediate neighbours were nearly 
all Maronite^ with a few Greek christians. We 
were rather annoyed at the assurance with which 
they would gratify their curiosity^ in paying us 
more visits than we liked — and by the women often 
watchin g us at our meals thron gh the open windows. 
The apartment in which we lived was a very high 
one^ with six windows — without glass^ and four 
small latticed apertures. Occasionally we visited 
our neighbours in their houses ; when I generally 
conformed to their custom^ in taking off my shoes 
on entering the house^ and also in their manner of 
sitting — like tailors — on the floor. On the occasion 
of formal visits^ a long pipe^ or a ^^hubble-bubble/^^ 
is offered^ and soon after a diminutive cup of coffee, 
very strong and without milk, and sometimes even 
without sugar, is handed to each guest. Our 
endeavours to converse with them were very 
amusing, and our failure occasioned many a laugh. 
Sometimes one of the company would break out 
into a horrible contmuous screech, which they 
consider as very good singing. It was always 
amusing to see them go through the long round of 
formal salutations on the entrance of a visitor. 
The entertainer would suddenly assume the gravity 
of a judge, and, putting his hand on his heart, would 
})id the new-comer welcome—^' ahlan wassahlanJ' 

1 In these the smoke passes through the water. 



MODE OF LIVING. 



47 



Then followed the good morning/^ or good 
evening/^ mutual enquiries after healthy and com- 
pliments, in which the name of God was frequently 
introduced ; and the whole concluded with ^' tefod- 
deV^ — " do me the favour^^ by which the visitor 
was invited to seat himself amougst the others. 

Their mode of living is extremely simple. In 
the morning a pipe of tobacco serves for breakfast, 
with sometimes a cup of coffee to it ; though very 
many never indulge in the luxury of taking a 
breakfast at all. About noon a little bread and 
cheese, eaten with onions, or radishes, or some fruit, 
serves for a lunch. Their principal meal is taken 
in the evening, a little after sunset. For this con- 
siderable preparation is often made during the 
afternoon. When all is ready, a small round table, 
nine or ten inches high, is taken down from the 
wall, and spread with the dishes. We were often 
enjoying the evening air in the garden when our 
neighbours dined, and Yusuf would sometimes 
invite us to sit down with him, though we always 

I declined. The family sat round the table on the 
ground, and as they used neither knives, forks, nor 
plates, each one dipped the fingers in the various 
dishes which covered the table. The principal dish 
was generally pilau ; which is made of rice boiled 
with meat, or simply boiled in water until soft, 
and then fried in oil or Arab butter — which 
latter is always rancid. Besides pilau, there were 

1 the round thin cakes of bread, a little goat cheese, 
sometimes a broiled fish^ and onions or other salad- 



48 



ARAB DINNER. 



ing; and a neiglibour called Ibraliim^ wlio sold 
wine, supplied Yusuf with a bottle of the wine of 
Lebanon^^ to wash down the dinner. In eating, 
one would take a little pilau with his fingers out 
of the dish, then perhaps tear oft' a piece of bread ; 
and bite a little from an immense radish, or a green 
onion ; occasionally taking up a few crumbs of the 
cheese : then he would again thrust his fingers into 
the pilau dish, — and so on. When the meal was 
over, the hands of each were cleansed bv water 
being poured over them at the door. After dinner, 
a small cup of coffee was usually taken, and then 
the men generally smoked until they retired to 
rest— which they did about eight o^clock. 



CHAPTER IV. 



LEAVE BEYROOT FOR JERUSALEM. — VOYAGE ALONG 

THE COASTS OF TYRE AND SIDON. LAND AT 

ACRE. MOUNT CARMEL. NAZARETH. 

After being upwards of two montlis at Beyroot 
•witL. Mr. Lowtliian^ I determined on visiting 
Jerusalem and otlier places of Scripture interest — 
alone^ as Mr. Lowthian did not wish to yisit J eru- 
salem a second time. Some of our friends tHouglit 
tlie journey hazardous ; many parts of the country 
north of J erusalem, where I purposed goings being 
very unsafe^ several parties having been plundered 
only a short time previously. However^ on Friday^ 
January 21^ I went on board a small Arab vessel^ 
bound for Jaffa. A very considerable coasting 
trade is carried on between Bevroot and Jaffa, and 
the decks of the vessels are often crowded with 
passengers. I was the first on boards and before 
we started^ the deck was well filled without being 
crowded. It was about eight o^ clock in the evening 
when we got off^ and quite dark. A fine north 
wind which had been blowing had then almost 
ceased^ and we moved very sluggishly along all the 
night. I could not sleep at all^ it was so bitterly 
cold^ with a heavy drenching dew^ and I founds 
when too late^ that I was very unsuitably provided 
for being exposed on deck^ thi^ough the cold nights 

F 



50 SCENE ON BOARD ARAB VESSEL. 

of a Syrian winter. My fellow-passengers seemed 
all very comfortable^ being quite covered up during 
the night with very thick woollen cloaks. 

When the morning came^ after nearly thirteen 
long and dreary hours of darkness^ I had a full 
view of the motley group seated on the deck. 
Many were dihgent at their devotions as the sun 
rose. Some were pilgrims of the Greek Church 
going to Jerusalem; but the largest proportion 
were Arabs^ goi^g farther than Jaffa^ amongst 
whom was a woman^ the only female on board. 
Seated on a handsome rag^ near the stern^ was a 
Turkish dignitary^, going to Jerusalem^ to assume 
some important office there; attended by a few 
Turk soldiers. Like the Turks generally^ he had 
a heavy immoveable countenance^ lacking at once 
the liveliness and badness of the Arab expression. 
His mustachoes were very fine^ with long points 
turned upwards^ and almost reaching to his 
eyes; and with such qualifications^ the wonder 
was that he was not sent as Pasha. Indeed I 
understood some of the Arabs on deck to say that 
he was actually the Pasha of Jerusalem^ and it 
was not until I arrived there that I found such 
was not the case. He was the chief officer of 
police^ and probably the next in rank to the 
Pasha. Besides myself there were only two 
Franks on board — one of them an Italian from 
Rome^ who afterwards accompanied me in some 
of my ramblings. 

During Saturday we were sailing along the 



TYRE AND SIDON. 



51 



coasts of Tyre and Sidon/^^ the latter city being 
opposite to US in tlie morning. A narrow plain 
extended along the coast^ wliich appeared fertile^ 
and tolerably cultivated. Eeyond tbis a range of 
low bills,, extending southward from Lebanon^ ran 
parallel to the shore^ and bounded the ^iew in that 
direction. The plain and the slopes of the hills 
were dotted ^nth small villages^ which had a 
pleasing effect. As the morning advanced the 
wind died quite away^ and the vessel was lying 
like a log upon the waters. In the afternoon the 
wind freshened a little^ and we arrived in sight of 
Tyre just before night set in. The shadows of 
evening were settling on its walls and towers^ 
jobscuring its fallen state^ and it was not then 
difficult to imagine it as once more the crowning 
city^ whose merchants are princes/''^ I almost 
wished that a contrary wind would arise^ and oblige 
us to anchor there^ to afford me an opportunity of 
viewing the town. However we struggled on^ with 
little wind^ past the frightful cliffs of the White 
Promontory^^ — so different in appearance from 
that of any other part of the coast. Their whiteness 
rendered them visible during the night. 

On Sunday morning (Jan. 23) we were becalmed 
off Zib;*^ a small picturesque village by the sea shore. 
A gently-rising knoll sprinkled over with flat-roofed 
houses^ above which rose several palm trees and 
the high dome of a mosque ; with a fine beach in 

1 Matthew xv. 21. 2 Isaiah xxiii. 8, 

2 Said to he the ancient Achzih, a city of Asher.— Josh, xix, 29. 



52 



ZIB. STORM. 



front, and surrounded on tli^ other sides by a 
verdant plain — formed a picture of great beauty, 
and realized my previous ideas of an Eastern scene. 
But the stillness of death seemed to hang over it, 
and scarcely a person was seen near. I thought 
at the time how little I should like travelling 
through such a village alone; and it strangely 
happened that of all the places which I afterwards 
visited, Zib was the only one in which I was 
entirely alone amongst the Arabs. Our captain, 
Ibrahim, sent a boat on shore here, for a fresh 
supply of water. 

As the evening approached we were opposite the 
city and bay of Acre (pronounced by the natives 
Akka) of which and Mount Carmel we had a fine 
view. A strong south-west wind then arose, and 
ha\ing to tack we made little way. When the 
wind increased, I asked the captain to take shelter 
at Hhaifa, a small walled town on the south of 
the bay, but he was for continuing the voyage. 
Darkness came on as we got past the promontory 
of Carmel, and the wind had then increased to a 
storm. The ship^s head was quickly turned about, 
and we flew before the gale towards land. The 
danger was imminent, as the night was pitchy 
dark, and if we missed the little port of Akka, our 
vessel would soon have gone to pieces on the beach. 
Whilst the captain held the ship to its course, nearly 
all the sailors were straining their eyes to discover 
the port. Their remarkably keen vision soon 
descried the walls of the city, and we ran safely 



rKPLEASAXT NIGHT. 



53 



througli a narroT7 entrance of the harbour^ which 
is surrounded by the ruins of an ancient mole. But 
the waves were nearly as rough there as without^ 
and thevhad some difficulty in makius: the vessel 
secure^ for the gale had become tremendous. Cables 
•were taken out and secured to eveiy available point. 
We asked if we could land^ and foucd we could not^ 
as the city gates were closed for the night. Om' 
situation was then most unenviable. The ship 
pitched dreadfully; the night was very cold and 
dark^ and^ worse than all^ torrents of rain began to 
pour down. "We were doubled up Arab fashion ; 
one or two more^ besides myself, creeping under 
my umbrella. How anxiously did we wish for the 
morning; and watch for the first gleam of light ! 
A httle after sunrise the gate which admits from 
the port was opened^ and the captain landed us all 
in his boat; except one poor fellow — a nondescript 
looking person- — whom he kept on board lest he 
should lose his fare. We were carried on men's 
shoulders through the raging sm^f, which foamed 
against the city walls^ and rushed backwards and 
forwards through the open gateway. The captain 
informed the Itahan and me that there was a Latin 
convent (dayr-el-Franjee) in Acre^ and to it we 
repaii^ed; and there abode. 

For several days there was no abatement of the 
storm; and we were glad to remain beneath the 
roof of the convent. And though the rules of the 
house were that travellers should onlv stav three 
dayS; the president permitted us to stay until 

f2 



54 



ACRE* 



Saturday mornings two days beyond tlie time, as 
tlie weather prevented ns pursuing our journey. 

Acre is only twice mentioned in the Bible. We 
read that the tribe of Asher failed to drive out 
the inhabitants of Accho/^^ after that city had been 
given to it. Its history since then has been a most 
eventful one. Ptolemy of Egypt having contributed 
to its splendour and importance, it Avas named after 
him, and in the Acts we read that Paul and his 
companions came to Ptolemais, and saluted the 
brethren, and abode with them one day.''^^ Since 
then, whilst that devoted land has been the battle- 
field of nations. Acre has ever been the chief seat 
of war. During the crusades it was successfully 
besieged by the Christian army under our own 
Eichard I. ; and, in later times, the unsuccessful 
siege of the city by Napoleon in 1799, the long 
siege and the taking of it by the Egyptian 
army in 1832, and the bombarding of the town 
by the English fleet in 1840, when much of 
it was laid in ruins by a terrible explosion, 
have contributed to increase the fame of this 
singular place. 

When the weather permitted, we rambled about 
the city. The fortifications appeared exceedingly 
strong, and as if they had recently been thoroughly 
repaired. The city was crowded with Turkish sol- 
diers, and the cannon which we saw were very large. 
Some of the houses seemed to have sufl'ered very 
much from the various seiges of the city, and a 

1 Judges!, 31. 2 Actsxxi. 7. 



ACRE. 



55 



large and splendid mosque was mucli defaced.^ 
The whole interior of the city has a mean and 
dilapidated appearance^ but in the numerous frag- 
ments of pillars lying about^ we saw evidences of 
its former splendour. The bazaars seemed well 
supplied ^T-th goods^ and those of native production 
were even cheaper than at Beyroot.^ The first time 
that we went into the bazaar^ a little after we 
landed^ an Arab who was sitting in his shop knew 
me^ I suppose from my physignomy^ to be an 
Englishman^ and made all his neighboui^s as wise 
as himself. A considerable business was going on 
in one part of the city^ but there were several large 
bazaars almost deserted. Probably the place 
was much more populous at the time they were 
built than it is at present. The population may 
now be five or six thousand_, including a large 
number of Greeks. The convent in which we 
were lodged was in the corner of an immense 
Khan — now principally occupied as barracks. The 
buildings enclosed a large open square^ in the centre 
of which stood a fountain and reservoir. 

Almost every day dm^ing the week we contrived 

1 Mr. Jowett obtained permission to visit this mosque — built by Djezzar, 
the notorious Pasha of Acre, who maintained the siege against Bonaparte. He 
says, On entering its precincts we were required to take off our outer shoes. 
We entered a beautiful court, the pavement of which was cold marble; fountains 
played their sti earns, and the trees waved their branches with a softness and 
coolness, forming a perfect contrast to the noise, filthiness, and meanness of the 
streets we had just left. The dome above (tlie mosque) is suriounded by circular 
galleries, similar, though in merest miniature to the whispering gallery at St. 
Paul s Cathedral. The effects of the late seige are sufficiently visible in different 
parts of this building, the cannon balls having someiimes fallen on a wrindow, 
and dashed it in pieces; at other times a column of cloisters has been carried 
away; in other spots the balls have either disfigured the walls by a bruise, or 
else gone clean through the more flimsy parts of ihe structure.'' 

2 Excellent wheaten bread and figs were little more than a halfpenny 
a pound. 



56 



BAY OF ACRE. 



to see tlie captain^ to hear his opinion of the weather^ 
and to ask him when he intended to start for Jaffa. 
On Friday the storm had well nigh expended it- 
self, bat he wonld have it that the weather was 
very bad^ and that he could not venture to sea. 
The fact was^ he had disposed of part of his cargo^ 
and was waiting to receive more : and he demanded 
our passage-money^ leaving us to proceed in the 
best way we could. 

On Saturday mornings the 29th^ after having 
with an immensity of trouble and bargaining en- 
gaged a couple of donkeys^ we set out for Moiint 
Carmel; on the opposite side of the bay of Acre. 
As we rode on the smooth beach^, the noble range 
of Carmel was in full yiew; on our left was the 
memorable plain of Acre^ bounded by the finely 
grouped mountains of Galilee ; and on the other 
side the boundless sea rolled up its surging waters 
to our very feet. With such objects of interest 
and beauty around us_, our ride was indeed pleasant^ 
and we enjoyed it exceedingly after our long deten- 
tion within the walls of Acre. Yery soon after we 
left the city, we had to cross a small river, swelled 
beyond its usual size by the rains ; and near it we 
saw a number of people from Acre, looking for 
shell-fish which the storm had thrown up. When 
we had almost made the circuit of this splendid 
bay, we came to where the river Mukutta empties 
itself into the sea. This is mentioned in the Old 
Testament — in the song of Deborah — as ^'^that 
ancient liver, the river Kishon."^^ It was very 



SCENE AT THE ^^RIYER KISHON/^ 



57 



mucli swollen with the rain^ and was both deep 
and rapid; and our muleteer would not let his 
animals venture into it. Accordingly we dis- 
mounted^ and sat down hj the river^ not knowing 
what to do. Presently a few loaded camels came up^ 
and crossed with ease. We might have been carried 
across on these camels^ but we had not finished 
disputing and arranging with our muleteer^ as to 
what we should pay him for the portion of the 
joiu'ney we had come. We were much assisted in 
this by a well-dressed Arab^ who had crossed the 
river on his horse,, and who very kindly waited 
about half an hour until he had seen us safe over. 
Whilst this was going on we amused ourselves with 
watching numbers of people cross the river. The 
ford was where the river and the sea meet^ and once 
the high waves which rolled in completely hid a 
donkey which was crossing. A poor old man^.with 
an old woman clinging to him^ crossed safely on 
foot^ with the water occasionally up to their necks; 
but some younger men^ more strong and more 
gallant^ carried their wives across on their shoulders. 
I saw how literally we may understand the Scripture 
account of this river sweeping away the discomfitted 
hosts of Sisera. At length I and my companion 
were mounted on the shoulders of two Arabs^ 
and we got safely across^ though with our clothes 
soaked with water : and having then engaged 
another donkey^ we pursued our journey through 
the little dirty town of Hhaifa^ and from thence 
along a very good road up the sides of Carmel^ to 



58 MOUNT CARMEL CONVENT. j 

the monastery on its western summit^ where we 
were most hospitably received and entertained. 
Just after crossing the Mukutta, an Arab of a most |j 
unprepossessing countenance^ and carrying a long 
gun^ joined us^ and accompanied us all the way to 
the monastery^ following us into the room where we 
were sitting. When asked what he vranted^ he 
demanded bucksheesh — I suppose he would say for 
defending and guarding us; but when we explained 
the nature of his services_, he was quickly ordered 
out, and went away with a most rueful countenance. 
After we had lunched^ the attendant showed us 
round the building. The galleries were spacious 
and long^ and the walls were profusely hung with 
framed engravings^ representing distinguished 
popes and ecclesiastics^ canonized saints^, and views 
of Italian churches. We were taken also to the 
roof of the building, and the view from thence was 
most magnificent ; and the atmosphere was so pure 
that even the most distant parts of the extensive 
prospect were seen with amazing distinctness. 
Before us was the large expanse of the dark blue 
ocean^ large because seen from so great a height — 
the plain of Acre^ through which the Kishon^^ is 
seen pursuing a winding course — and the fine swell- 
ing mountains of Galilee^ beyond which rose the 
^^majestic Hermon/^ covered with glistening snow. 

The monastery is beautifully situate on the 
western declivity of Carmel^ near where the range 
terminates in an abrupt precipice of 600 or 
700 feet high. I imagined that to dwell there. 



MOUNT car:>iel. 



59 



enjoying tlie bracing atmosphere^ the purity of 
the air^ and the beauty of the place^ apart from and 
above the noise and contention of the worlds would 
ahnost reahze the dreaming conceptions of a happy 
state, I grieved to think that so fair a spot should 
be the abode of dark and gloomy superstition. 

On the next morning (Sunday) I ascended^ 
before sunrise^ the higher summits of Carmel^ to 
the east of the convent. The mountain was covered 
with a rich carpet of grass^ and was almost all over- 
mn with thorns and briars^ and a stunted species of 
oak. The air was quite perfumed with the scent 
of fragrant herbs growing around. I followed^ for 
a considerable distance^ a fine cleared broad path — 
made on pui^pose for the fathers to walk on. Instead 
of the flocks^'' of Carmel, I only saw one miserable 
donkey. There appeared to be no habitations on 
Carmel except the convent^ and a small cottage 
adjoining: and as I ranged far from these_, the 
awful solitude of the scene powerfully impressed^ 
me. When the sun had risen^ I rested beneath 
the shade of a bush^ gazing upon the prospect 
before me^ — where events of such vast interest had 
transpired^ and where future blessing will assui^edly 
descend. The place where I was sitting might be 
the spot where Elijah assembled the people of Israel^ 
and where they^ at the sight of the mii^aculous burning 
of his sacrifice^ fell on their faces and said^ the 
Lord he is the God^ the Lord he is the God.^^ When 
I retui^ned from my walk^ the morning service was 
being performed in the church — which occupies 



60 



START FOR NAZARETH. 



the centre of the building, and is lighted from the 
sides of a beautiful dome^ of great height. The 
interior was riehly ornamented_, evidently at great 
expense ; and a fine organ was then being played. 
Under the altar^ a place was shewn us as the exact 
spot where some occurrence took place^ but I did 
not enter it^ being very unbelieving in monkish 
traditions. I walked over many parts of Carmel 
during the day, and found it every where in 
the state abeady described. In one place there 
appeared to be the remains of an ancient wall^ 
which had once enclosed the western declivity of 
the Carmel range. 

Early on Monday mornings we bid adieu to this 
charming residence — not however until we had 
partaken of an excellent breakfast^ and started for 
Nazareth. We were a company of three, a Prussian 
hussar having joined us; who^ though wanting 
even an ordinary degree of courage, would, I 
thought, almost frighten any evil-disposed Arabs 
by his fierce-looking bearded visage. "We lost 
some valuable time parleying about the hire of 
some donkeys as we passed through Hhaifa, and, 
after all, started on foot. The morning was far 
advanced when we got fairly on our journey across 
the plain of Acre. Our route fcr several hours was 
along the southern edge of the plain, at the foot 
of Carmel. From the heavy rains which had 
fallen, many parts of the plain were standing with 
water, and we were often Avalking ancle-deep in 
the mud. Very little of the plain was cultivated, 



WALK TO NAZAUETH. 



61 



thougli tlie soil appeared to be exceedingly rich. 
There were neither fences nor trees^ nor anything 
to relieve the monotonous nniformity of the plain. 
The entire country which we passed through after 
leaving Hhaifa seemed almost without inhabitant^ 
and we met very few travellers on the road. We 
passed one or two very small idllages^ each consisting 
of a few miserable houses. At the eastern extremity 
of the range of Carmel^ we turned off a httle 
across the narrow arm of the plain which separates 
Carmel from the mountains of Galilee — which were 
now immediately before us. "We there came sud- 
denly upon the Kishon^ which^ though not very 
wide, appeared to be deep. Our bold Prussian 
ventured across first^, when the deepest part was 
found to be about four feet in depth : though we 
could see by the banks that it had been twice as 
high during the storm. A mounted Arab came 
up to us whilst the Italian and I were still on the 
wrong side of the river, and we got him, for a smaU 
present, to carry us over on his horse, one at a 
time, behind him. The Italian had then become 
exceedingly tired, and we had to walk very slowly 
on his account; and we began to fear lest we 
should not reach Nasareth that night. 

After we had crossed the river, our road led us 
through a beautiful country, of quite an opposite 
character to what we had been travelling over 
before. We were passing over a succession of finely 
rounded low hills, with large spreading trees 
growing here and there, and a carpet of verdure 

G 



62 



MOUNTAINS OF GALILEE. 



covering the ground — the soil appearing not to 
have been disturbed for ages. The whole had a fine 
park-like appearance^ though many of the trees 
were leafless at that season. There were great 
numbers of Syrian partridges there — a very fine 
bird^ of which I have seen very few at any other 
place. We had suffered a little from the heat all 
the day, but as evening approached^ the air became 
unpleasantly cold. We were then traversing some 
small plains^ tolerably well cultivated^ in which were 
one or two villages. We passed through one of 
these^ which was surrounded with walls apparently 
composed of mud. The interior of the village was 
very dirty^ and we had a good deal of unpleasant 
poking about amongst the miserable hovels^ before 
we could find our way through; and almost at every 
turn we had to ask the way of the Arab villagers, 
Avhoso sinister aspect and short answers were 
anything but encouraging. Every one who saw 
us appeared almost to manifest some surprise at 
our appearance there^ and at such a late hour in 
the evening.! We were on a road on which very 
few Europeans are ever seen, and when they are, 
it is generally in a large well-armed party, with all 
the accompaniments of guides, tents, muleteers, 
and horses : whilst we were unarmed, and in hum- 
ble guise. 

As we advanced, we began to feel a little alarm 
at our situation. Night was coming on, the dis- 

1 Arabs very seldom manifest surprise or wonder at anything— their 
pride preventing them shewing it. 



BENIGHTED. 



63 



trict we were in w^as unsafe and almost deserted^ 
and the Arabs we occasionally met told us that we 
were several hours^ distance from Nazareth. The 
Italian became thoroughly exhausted^ and threw 
himself on the ground^ saying he could go no fur- 
ther. The night was bitterly cold; and the Prussian 
and not being disposed to remain out all nighty 
proposed to leave our companion_, until we could 
bring a horse or ass from some village to his assist- 
ance. But the idea of being left alone so frightened 
him^ that he summoned up all his remaining 
strength^ and crawled along after us. I pitied 
him much^ and offered to help him along^ but_, 
weak and exhausted as he was^ he was too proud to 
-accept my offer. Presently we met two mounted 
Arabs, and the Prussian^ in a doleful tone, asked 
them where we could sleep. They answered very 
civilly, and pointed in the direction we were to go. 
It was then quite dark, and we could scarcely keep 
in the beaten path : after about half an hour we 
were stumbling up a rugged hill, to a village on 
the top. It was no time to stand on ceremonies, 
and we at once pushed amongst the houses. The 
Prussian was dreadfully frightened, and asked at 
several of the doors, in a most piteous tone, where 
we could sleep. One man told us, I suppose, 
where to go, but of course we could not under- 
stand a word he said. Another, less polite, told 
us to go (roohhj ; but a third kindly came out of 
his house, and took us to the place. What would 
our frieuds at home have thought, could they have 



64 



ARAB TILLAGE. 



seen ns wandering in the dark througli this strange 
Arab village^ fearful of the half- wild dogs^ or of a 
sudden attack from still less tame Arabs^ — every 
now and then looking in at the low entrance of a 
house^ filled with smoke, and dimly lighted with a 
little burning wood. The house we were taken to 
was almost filled with Arabs, sitting in a circle 
round a rather large wood fire in the centre of the 
room. Many of them were smoking, and all had 
that solemnity of face and manner so peculiar to 
their nation. They cordially welcomed us, a space 
on the ground was cleared, a mat was spread on it, 
and we were invited to sit down in their circle. 
We were not a little pleased to find ourselves so 
comfortably seated, and they appeared equally 
pleased at our unexpected arrival amongst them, 
as if we had reheved the tedium of their long winter 
evening. There were about twenty persons pre- 
sent, most of whom appeared to belong to the til- 
lage, and one of them, evidently superior to the 
rest, was probably the chief of the place. Our 
appetites by this time had become well sharpened, 
and some of them — probably the chief — had, with 
a courteous appreciation of our wants, sent to their 
homes to order the preparation of some food ; for 
the khan keeper had not even bread for us. In 
a short time two large dishes of pilau — made of 
rice and other kinds of grain, cooked with oil or 
their abominable butter — were set before us. Not- 
withstanding our hunger, we hesitated plunging 
our fingers into the dishes, and our Arab friends 



SCENE IN KHAN. 65 

perceiving this^ ^ith kind consideration sent some 
young men^, who were idling about the door^ to 
seek for spoons through the village ; and as they 
took some time in bringing them/ it was evident 
that considerable research had to be made. Thi^ee 
wooden spoons were at length brought^ and we did 
ample justice to the dishes so hberally provided for 
us. T\'e never knew to which of the company we 
were indebted for t hem. They all appeared gratified 
in looking at us^ and were amazingly pleased when 
our Prussian took a sword down from the wall^ 
and went through his sword exercise j and when 
he sung them some German martial songs^ their 
eyes ghstened with dehght. After we had finished 
our repast^ cofi'ee was served rounds and then the 
men began to retire to their own houses : but just 
before they went^ a Muslim Arab^ who was appa- 
rently hke ourselves a traveller sojourning for the 
nighty stood up^ and commenced his devotions in a 
loud singing tone^ going through the strange bow- 
ings and prostrations of the ]\Iahometan formulary; 
the others neither joinings nor appearing even 
to notice him. "When he had finished^ he lay% 
down to sleep onthefloor^ covering himself entirely 
with his camels hair cloak. We also then lay 
down to rest^ but it was so exceedingly cold that I 
found it impossible to sleep : and having been 
exposed to the hot sun all the day_, we felt the cold 
more than we othewise should have done. There 
was an unusually wide doorway to the house^ and 
it was unfortunately without a door, and the cold 

g2 



66 



APPROACH TO NAZARETH. 



wind^ which was also very strongs blew right at us. 
I sat by the fire a great part of the -iiight_, keeping 
it alive by heaping wood upon it. The sight of 
the sleeping figures around me^ illumined by the 
flickering rays of the fire, was indeed a curious 
one. I was truly glad when the long dreary night 
was over : and whilst it was yet twilight^ we were 
all preparing for our departure. Our host^ who 
was a Greeks would take nothing from us^ and 
we set out for Nazareth amidst a profusion of 
compHments. 

Our path led us through a wild and rocky 
district^ over the mountains of Galilee. There, 
around the scenes of our Saviour^s ministry and 
rejection^ the full weight of the curse has fallen. 
He came unto his own and his own received him 
not. In rejecting and crucifying the Messiah^ the 
treacherous Jews filled up the measure of their 
fathers^ iniquities : and upon this land^ which was 
once the glory of all lands^ and of whose ancient 
fertility and beauty every testimony abounds^ have 
been exactly accomplished all the prophecies which 
speak of its desolation. As it is written^, the land is 
desolate and its cities waste the land is enjoying 
its Sabbaths j3 and briers and thorns have come up 
upon it.^ After walking about two hours through 
this dreary country^ we arrived in sight of Nazareth, 
lying beneath us embosomed in a sequestered valley. 
I felt myself privileged to behold such a spot, 
where He who became an infant of days, dw^elt for 

1 Jer. V. 7. 2 I ev. xxvi. 34. 3 Isa. v. 6 



NAZARETH. 



67 



nearly tMrty years^ wliere he was subject to his 
parents^ and where he '^^ncreased in wisdom and 
in statnre^ and in favonr with God and man^^^ 
until he went forth to finish the amazing work he 
had come to perform. How interesting to think 
that those hills were the same as when the Sa^ionr^s 
feet pressed them in his wanderings^ and that he 
might have often traversed the path along which 
we were then wearily toihno;. The hill which we 
were descending was steep and rockv^, and we had 
a full view of Nazareth at its base. It had a bare 
and dreary aspect — no graceful palms growing 
amidst the houses to reheve the eye. The valley 
around was apparently well-cultivated^ and sprink- 
led over with both fig and olive trees. "When we 
had reached the town^ and lost om'selves in its 
narrow streets^ its meanness and dirtiness became 
apparent. It was a more populous place than I 
had supposed. Inquiring our way^ we at length 
got to the convent^, and were assigned apartments 
in a house built for the accommodation of pilgrims. 

1 LiLke ii. 52. 



cnAPTi;!^ V. 



NAZAJM/ni. AHCKSr) MOCfNT TA JiOR. - A V K 

N AZA IM// If. KMORA JW.O.V. — NAIJLOf/K. — ' 

KINOKEL. AKRfVK AT ./ K IU;M A J>K M. 

Na/arctli iH H',u<\ 1/) f:rjn1.;i,irj Uircr; or four tjion- 
«anfl irjf)al>ibi.nt,H. It ih a. very diriy uiul 

Mftin^^ iJjf: rn;irk(:f< lr>vvn for ;j, widf: rliHtrir:! of 
roiinlry, it,H ::ljof)H an: tolcratjiy vvcJ) MU[>plj(;(l willi 
^oofix of* varioiJH kindH dnificrH' Hfiopn f:ofilJi.iriin^^ 
I'ritjnf) rn;i,rjNf';i,<:fjiroH ;j,f)[;(;arinj^ t,o he Uj(: rno.st 
nurnc.roiJH. 1 o ituHi of NazarclJi Ujr |j(j(lavv(:on 
ArutjM fK:(MJ[)y (country, and w(; iH^n; Maw tfifj 
wandrj'in/^' Horis of tfiC (hincri l)ijyirj/i^ and H(-Jliri^ in 
ffjarkcL In i}i<; afbtrnoon I viMiictd t.lir* W('J1 of 
NazarctJi, tJio I'ountain of the, Vir^^in. A 

lar^^c /aoiij) of" vv(jrn(:n, H(mi(' of tJjcrn ricfdy, and 
ji^<;n(;rally fnoni la,Hf(;fiilly (in.-HHcri, wen: \u]f^(:nfif/; U> 
talk ;i.nd f<j l;iij//fi wiI Ij c'icIj ot,ljr*r, ctrc. tlicy ntt,ijrn(:(f 
Ijcarin^'; tlicir ()it,(:fjf:rs on t,lj(:ir \\<:iu\H. ^I fi^-y vvorr; 
not veiled, ;ind \n:uiy of the y()\un^(:r ones vvfirc 
very l)eautliul, liavinj^ tlic- fulT dark eye am] tlie 
f'ood fir/ure eli;i.r;i.eteristie, of tlie women in tlie 
fiortli of I'alentine* Ah they ^oHHifXiJ to^etluT, 
many ;i, lau^li hurst from arrjonj^ them; and, 
althou^^^ti lliirMty, I (hd not venture tlirou/^li tho 
inidMt of them to the well^ fj(jt winliin^ to he thfj 



WELL OF NAZARETH. 



69 



subject of their bantering jokes. There is no other 
well besides this in Nazareth^ and there was 
a constant succession of the Nazarene women^ 
going and returning. The custom of females 
going to draw water for the family is universal in 
the East^ and the narratives of Ptebecca in the Old 
Testament^ and of the woman of Sychar in the 
New^ show its great antiquity. Thus scenes now 
Tvitnessed in the land illustrate the records of 
sacred history^ and also afford e\adence to their 
genuineness and truth. Though it is almost four 
thousand vears since Rebekah was at the well, how 
minutely is the story told : — And when she had 
done giving him drink^ she said^ I will draw water 
for thy camels also^ until they have done drinking. 
And she hasted and emptied her pitcher into the 
trough^ and ran again unto the well to draw water^ 
and drew for all his camels -^^ and at the present 
day^ in the East^ there is usually a small trough 
by the side of the wells_, from which horses and 
camels may drink^ and those who come to draw 
water occasionally empty their pitchers into it, 
when it is needed. I sat down to rest not far from 
the well; under the thick shade of a fig tree, and 
not having slept any the night before, I was soon 
overcome with drowsiness, and enjoyed a refreshing 
sleep for some time. 

On Wednesday I walked alone to the top of the 
hill behind Nazareth, where a Mahometan tomb 
crowns the summit. The prospect thence was fine, 
and has been well described by Dr. Robinson, who 



70 



VIEW FROM MOUNTAIN. 



also had wandered alone to tlie same spot^ and 
upon whom the glorious scene burst unexpectedly. 
He says^ There lay the magnificent plain of 
Esdraelon. . . on the left was seen the round 
top of Tabor over the intervening hills . . . 
then came the long line of Carmel. In the west 
lay the Mediterranean^ gleaming in the morning 
sim. . . below on the north was spread out another 
of the beautiful plains of Northern Palestine. 
Further towards the right is a sea of mountains back - 
ed by the higher ones beyond the lake of Tiberias^ 
and in the north-east by the majestic Hermon 
with its icy crown/^ I spent some time there^ 
gazing on these scenes^ and enjoying the cooling 
breeze. Observing a lad with a flock of goats^ I 
went up to him^ and endeavoured to talk with him. 
He did not act like a good shepherd/^ for he 
threw stones at his flock if they attempted to wander. 
There was no grass to be seen^ but the white chalky 
soil was almost hidden by a stunted prickly shrub^ 
scarcely a foot in height^ which covered the entire 
hill^ from which the goats were nibbling the young 
shoots. Nazareth and the surrounding valley had 
a pleasing appearance from this place. It is a 
secluded spot — its rich and fertile valley being 
quite surrounded by barren mountains. In the 
time of our Saviour it was the resort of the worst 
characters^, who fled thither from justice or revenge. 
Hence the question of Nathanael^ ^^Can there any 
good thing come out of Nazareth.^^i 

1 John i. 46, 



TRADITIONAL SITES. 



71 



In tlie afternoon we were shown some of the 
wonderful sights of Nazareth. We were first 
taken to the convent chnrch^ and down a long 
flight of steps in the middle^ which took us to a 
place under the altar^ said to be the grotto of the 
annunciation. A marble pillar suspended from 
the ceiling indicates the exact place where they 
say the angel appeared to Mary. The deluded 
Ai'ab christians of Nazareth were pressing to it^ 
one after another^ stretching pieces of silk thread 
against it^ which they would convey to the sick ; 
and it is said that this miraculous pillar is thus 
made use of to charm away diseases all over Gahlee. 
We also visited the pretended house of Joseph^ and 
other places ; but the most curious sight was a 
house built over a large mass of rock^, nearly level 
at the top^ and about the height of a table, on 
vvhich they say that our Lord ate with his disciples 
both before and after his resm*rection ! Some 
hollow places in the rock were pointed out, which 
they said served instead of dishes to hold the food 
for the meal ! On the walls of the room was hung 
up a dispensation, from some pope or other, of 
seven years^ indulgence to those who visited the 
place, and repeated a few prayers : it was written 
in the Latin, Italian, and Arabic languages. 
During the time we were there, the building was 
quite crowded with Arab christians, most of 
whom carried away with them a little white dust 
from the soft rock, but some were content with 
making their finger ends white. Nearly all the 



72 



ASCEND MOUNT TABOR. 



poor creatures contributed half a piastre each as 
their offering to the church. 

Early the next morning I set out for Mount Tabor 
with a guide I had engaged^ and the Prussian. We 
were advised not to go^ as all the country in that 
direction is peopled by the Bedaween Arabs,, but 
my desire to ascend this celebrated mountain was 
very great^ and I was resolved to go if possible. For 
the first mile or two the country appeared partially 
cultivated^ and we saw many ploughs at work^ but 
after that neither house nor village was seen^ and 
the land was totally neglected. I had left almost 
all the contents of my purse at the convent^ taking 
a little money with me in case we should be attacked^ 
as the Bedaween are said often to beat those who 
have nothing for them to steal. The time happily 
is approaching when violence shall no more be 
heard in thy land^ wasting nor destruction within 
thy borders.^^i The fine, round, and dark wooded 
top of Tabor was soon in sight, and arrested our 
admiration ; for amongst all mountains, Tabor is 
preeminent for beauty. When we had at length 
reached the foot of the mountain, we crossed a 
narrow ravine, a little above the village of Daburieh,^ 
and having drunk of a brook by the way^^ we 
commenced a most toilsome ascent up the steep 
w^estern sides of the hill. The soil was an exceedingly 
rich reddish-coloured loam, covered in many 
places with thick grass, but generally with wood 
of luxuriant growth. When about half-way up we 

1 Ifea. Ix. 18. 2 Probably the same as Dabareh^ raentioned in Josh. xxi. 28. 



SUMMIT OF TABOB. 



73 



disturbed a fine full-grown fox^ wMeh stayed a 
moment to look at us before he slid away into tbe 
recesses of the thicket. There were also occasionally 
the marks of wild swine seen on the ground ; and 
above us we saw the towering eagle circling in the 
highest air. By exerting ourselves much^ we reached 
the top of the hill in about an hour from commencing 
its ascent. We then emerged upon a large level 
field, of the richest soil, where two Bedaween 
Arabs, probably from the village of Daburieh, 
were ploughing the ground, and sowing it with 
wheat: the seed however being thrown on the 
ground before it was ploughed. This method of 
sowing I had seen at Smyrna, and at Beyroot, and 
it is, I beheve, the plan always adopted in the East. 
We struck right across the newly-ploughed ground, 
and then ascended to a still higher part, which we 
found entirely covered with the ruins of an ancient 
city. Our Arab guide, who was a christian, showed 
us a vault which he said had been a church, and 
he went down into it, and, crossing himself, began 
to mutter some prayers. It was not until I had 
climbed the summit of the highest ruin, that the 
whole extent of that magnificent prospect was 
visible. And as the eye glances round on so 
glorious a scene, the mind thrills in contemplating 
the places where such mighty events have occurred. 
To the south and west extended the wide plain of 
Esdraelon— ^^the battle-ground of nations,^^ called 
also in Scripture, the Valley of Jezreel. The ^^bow 
of IsraeF^ was here broken -} and when the 

1 Hosea i. 5- tt 



74 



VIEW FROM TABOR. 



cliildren of Judah and the children of Israel be 
gathered together^ and appoint themselves one 
head . . . great shall be the day of JezreelJ'^^ ^^And 
it shall come to pass in that day, I wiU hear, 
saith the Lord, I will hear the heavens and thev 
shall hear the earth ; and the earth shall hear the 
corn, and the wine, and the oil, and they shall 
hear Jezreelj'^^ On the eastern part of the plain, 
and not far from the southern base of Tabor, was 
the hill Little Hermon,^ on the sides of which we 
saw two villages called Endor and Nein; the 
former being supposed to be the place where the 
witch lived in the time of Saul, and the latter 
where the Lord met the funeral procession of the 
mdow^s only son, and, having compassion on her, 
touched the bier, and restored the young man 
alive to his mother. Looking over Hermon, the 
rugged range of Gilboa, on the south-east extremity 
of the plain, bounded the view. On Gilboa Saul 
and his sons were slain; ^^for there the shield of the 
mighty is vilely cast away.''^ Its barren heights 
remind us of the curse, — Ye mountains of Gilboa, 
let there be no dew, neither rain upon you, nor 
fields of offerings.-'^^ On the south of the plain, 
and to the right of Gilboa, were the mountains of 
Samaria ; which enclose the fat valley s,^^ known 
to Israel for their glorious beauty,^^^ and which, 
like a fading fiower,^^ have long since ceased to 
bloom. Looking still more towards the west, we 

] Rosea i. 1 ] . 2 Hosea ii. 2] , 22, 3 Not the Hermon of Scripture. 

4 II Sam. i. 21. 5 Isa, xxviii. 1,4. 



VIEW FROM TABOK. 



saw tlie long precipitous front of Carmel, tlie Plain 
of Acre, and, in the distance, the blue waters of the 
Great Sea. And so clear was the atmosphere that 
I plainly discerned the monastery on the western 
end of Carmel — about twenty-five miles from the 
place where I was standing. 

Turning to the north-east, and looking over a 
rich undulating tract of country, we had a ghmpse 
of the Sea of Galilee, its still blue waters reposing 
amidst a scene of desolate grandeur. To the pious 
christian this lake and its shores must ever be the 
objects of the deepest interest : being associated in 
his mind with most of the misrhty works which the 
Saviour wrought whilst upon earth. From amongst 
the fishermen on its waters he chose his most 
beloved disciples ; and its placid surface carried 
the message of mercy to the multitudes who 
lined the shore. This lake appears almost hal- 
lowed from having borne on its bosom the same 
precious Sa^dour, when going on errands of mercy 
from town to town on its western shores, or when 
crossing over to the desert j)lace^^ on the opposite 
side. Beneath its siu'ging waves Peter began to 
sink, when the Lord who was walking on the water 
stretched out his hand to save him : and fi^om its 
deepest recesses the multitudinous fish came to the 
disciples^ nets, acknowledging the lordship of Him 
by whom all things were created. Large and 
populous cities — amongst which was Capernaum, 
the principal scene of the Saviour's Ministiy — once 
lined the western shores of this lake ; but the woe 



76 



THE TRANSFIGURATION. 



SO emphatically pronounced upon them^ lias been 
fulfilled to tlie uttermost. There is now no town 
or village near^ except the half-ruined town of 
Tiberias^ where a number of Jews reside in much 
poverty. From the summit of Tabor we had just 
a glimpse of one corner of Tiberias, Near the sea 
was the land of Gennesaret^ of which Josephus has 
left us such a glowing description. He describes 
it as an Eden^ blessed with a dehcious temperature^ 
and producing the fruits of every climate under 
heaven_, in endless succession throughout the year. 
Looking north we had a fine view of distant 
ranges of hills^ rising higher and higher^ until 
the majestic Hermon and the mighty Lebanon 
terminated the view. 

Mount Tabor has long been celebrated as the 
supposed scene of our Lord^s transfiguration. That 
it took place there is extremely unlikely, as the site 
of a populous town, which then occupied the summit 
of Tabor, would not be called ^^a high mountain 
apart P The *^^holy mount^^ would more probably be 
Mount Hermon, to which I have already directed 
the reader^s attention; for it was at the foot of that 
mountain that we last find our Lord and his 
apostles before that event.^ We have seen that 
Mount Zion is identical with Mount Hermon, and 
in the transfiguration we see, in part, the fulfilment 
of the prediction in the 2nd Psalm— Yet have I 
set my king upon my holy hill of Zion.^^ May 
it not have been on account of the failure of Israel 
that a temporary Zion was given them in the mor^ 

1 See Matthew xvi. 13, 



UETURN TO NAZARETH. 



77 



barren district of Judea ? and tlie transfiguration 
on the holy mcnnt/^^ where the sample of the 
future kingdom was given^ may be understood as 
a pledge of the restoration to Israel of the original 
Sion which is Hermon/^ 

Before we began to descend^ we sought to satisfy 
our thirsty but we could not see^ nor did our guide 
appear to know^ anything of a spring mentioned 
by some travellers. There was some rain water 
standing in the hollows of some large stones^ which 
we were fain to drink. After looking a little 
among the arched ruins^ we began to retrace our 
steps across the lower summit^ where we found 
the Arabs still at work. In going down we left the 
circuitous path^ and_, proceeding in a straight line^ 
were soon at the foot of the hill. As we were 
crossing the wild country near Tabor^ we met a 
Bedaween leading his camel,, who spoke to our 
guide : and the latter told us afterwards that he 
had asked him if we had any money with us^ and 
that he had answered that we had left it at the 
convent. Our guide pointed out some spots where 
he said treasure had been found ; and one place 
where some battle had been fought. We arrived 
at Nazareth about two o^ clocks hungry and 
thirsty^ for we had scarcely tasted anything in 
the mornings and our six or seyen hours^ toil 
had been rather severe. 

As we walked about Nazareth it was pleasing to 
think that we were treading over paths on which 

2 II Peter i. 18. 

h2 



78 



LEAVE NAZARETH, 



the Saviour must often have wandered : and it was 
wonderful to tliink of his abiding thirty years 
in such a place. We know little of his life 
during all that time^ but^ surrounded by a wicked 
population^ it is probable that he lived in great 
seclusion. When he in his jonrneyings afterwards 
twice visited the place^ to preach the acceptable 
year of the Lord/'' though the people of Nazareth 
wondered at the gracious words which proceeded 
out of liis mouth/^ they were filled with envy and 
mahce^ and took him^ on one occasion,, to the brow 
of the hill on which the city was built to cast 
him down headlong.^ The monks shew a hiU at a 
considerable distance from Nazareth as the Mount 
of Precipitation^ but the gospel narrative disproves 
their foohsh tradition. On the hill behind Nazareth 
I saw many steep rocks^ np some of which I 
climbed with difficulty^ and there we may suppose 
is the place where Jesus was taken^ to be cast 
down headlong. 

Early on Friday morning (Feb. 4) we bade 
good bye to our kind entertainers at Nazareth^ 
and set out on our journey southward towards 
Jernsalem. Our wearied companion^ the Italian^ 
was not able to go with us. I engaged the Prussian 
to carry my knapsack^ in consideration of my 
paying all his expenses betwixt Nazareth and 
Jerusalem. Soon after the sun had risen^ we were 
traversing some narrow ravines south of Nazareth^ 
following the ancient beaten path. We had no 

1 Luke i7. 16— 30. 



PLAIN OF ESDRAELON. 



79 



guide; but ^-e hoped to find our way by making 
enquiry as we went along^ and by consulting a 
map I had with me. In about an hour^ we emerged 
on to the magnificent plain of Esdi^aelon across 
which we could see to the mountains of Samaria. 
Here and there^ at far distant intervals^ the soil was 
being turned up by wild-looking Ai^abs^ apparently 
belonging to the Bedaween. The soil appeared 
exceedingly rich^ and is probably unsui^passed in 
its capabilities for vegetable production. Whilst 
all the plain appeared to hare been growing grain 
at no very distant period^ only very small portions 
are cultivated in any one year. All the rent 
paid is a tax on the grain actually grown; the 
■plain being the property of the government. 

This rich and spacious plain is almost without 
inhabitant; and very seldom a ^ wayfaring man^ is 
to be seen crossing it. "We toiled on thi^ough the 
heat of the day^ supported only by a few figs and 
a httle bread; which we diluted with the stagnant 
water remaining in the small watercourses which 
occasionally crossed our path. Here we were on the 
old beaten track between Galilee and Jerusalem^ 
which the Saviour himself must often have traversed 
when going to and returning fi^om the feasts. The 
weariness and fatigue he would often feel; when 
on his numerous joiu'neyingS; struck my mind the 
more powerfnlly from what I experienced when 
tracking his footsteps. Probably over the path we 
were then iu; the infant Jesus was carried by 
Joseph and Mary when coming out of Egypt ; and 



80 



ARAB TILLAGE. 



when he was twelve years^ old^ his then tender 
frame endured the privations of this long and 
wearisome journey. And year by year after would 
he go up with the tribes of IsraeF^ to observe in 
Jerusalem all the ordinances of the dispensation 
under which he livedo though he himself came to 
abolish that dispensation^ and to introduce the 
^'^new and li^ino- v:av^^ of access unto God. How 
often then must he needs'^ cross this mighty 
plain^ going through Samaria^^ to and from the 
holy city. 

In the middle of the forenoon we came to a 
small village^ which barely reheved the desolateness 
of the road. We should have preferred going 
round the outside of its mud walls^ for we were aware 
that the inhabitants of that part bore the very 
worst character ; but we were afraid of losing sight 
of om' path^ which led right into the place. It 
was far the worst specimen of an Arab village I 
had seen ; everything being as dirty and filthy as 
it could well be. The men were sitting in groups 
on dunghills^ smoking their pipes and basking in 
the sun. The women were generally at work^ 
simply dressed in one long garment which had 
once been white cotton. The fierce barking of 
the dogs^ and the uncivil answers of the men^ when 
we asked our way through the village^ put us in no 
little fear. One group scanned us very closely^ and 
demanded bucksheesh^ from us. In starting from 
Beyroot I had only taken with me my oldest clothes^ 

1 This term is used equally by tlie beg^zar and tiie robber, the former 
pronouncing it with a supplicating tone of voice. 



PLAIN OF ESDRAELON. 



81 



and perhaps neither of ns looked as if anything 
could be found on us to pay them for the trouble 
of searching us. However^ by a kind providence 
we were preserved from either robbery or violence 
by the hands of these men. When we emerged 
again into the desolate plain^ we felt relieved. In 
a few minutes we began to suspect that we had 
lost the path^ for the traces of footsteps appeared 
less and less until they could no longer be seen ; 
but we struck across the plain to our rights and, 
finding a path which appeared to go south, we 
followed it. 

Nothing can exceed, in historic interest, a walk 
across the plain ofEsdraelon. When we first emerged 
on the plain, we had a full view of the Little 
Hermon, on our left, standing by itself, with the 
villages of Endor and Nein on its side. And on 
the southern slope of the same hill, we afterwards 
saw the village of Solam, of which Dr. Robinson 
says, there is little room for doubt that it is the 
ancient Shunem, . . . where the Phihstines were 
encamped before SauFs last battle,^^^ and where 
the Shunamitish woman Hved with whom Elisha so 
often lodged, and whose son he restored to life. 
Fm'ther south, across the plain, we saw the ruins 
of Zerin, finely set upon a low hill jutting out 
from the mountains of Gilboa, which latter bound 
the plain on the south-east. Dr. Robinson visited 
Zerin, and concluded that it is the ancient Jezreel. 
Across our path, therefore, the prophet Elijah ran 

1, Sam. xxviii. 4. 



83 



APPROACH JENEEN. 



before tlie chariot of Ahab " to the entrance of 
Jezreel/^ after he had slain the prophets of Baal 
at Carmel. Before us all the day were the thickly 
grouped hills of Samaria^ and on our right the 
noble range of Carmel bounded the viev/. 

Some writers mention streams of water flowing 
w^estward across the plain; but from our first 
entrance of the plain near Nazareth^ until we 
began to ascend the hills of Samaria at Jeneen^ 
not a drop of running water was seen. There 
were several channels^ perhaps six feet deep and 
twelve feet across the top^ but^ although the season 
had been unusually wet^ there vv^as only a little 
standing water^ here and there^ in the lower part 
of the channels. In the afternoon^ as we 
approached Jeneen^ we came to some very soft 
ground^ where our feet sometimes sank nearly a 
foot deep in the mud. When we were in the midst 
of this^ a large company of mounted Arabs passed^ 
and shouted roughly at us^ but we paid little heed 
to them^ and they went on. We had heard a very 
bad account of Jeneen^ and not wishing to go there 
too soon in the day^ we rested ourselves for about 
an hour. After that we pushed forward^ and were 
soon in the suburbs of the town. There we saw 
fine streams of water flowing in narrow channels 
among thickly-planted groves of fruit trees^ over 
which rose^ here and there^ a stately palm^ imparting 
a peculiar charm to the scene. Imagining that 
the road would take us further rounds we struck 
off into these gardens^ where we had some difficulty 



KHAX AT JEXEEX. 



83 



in finding a passage throiigli, and surprised some 
childi'en exceedingly ttIickl we suddenly came npon. 
It Tras pleasing to see tlie crystal water flowing 
in sncli abundance j and to see it tuiming 
the wheels of a corn-mill wMcli we passed. TTnen 
we got into tlie sti'eets, we inqnii-ed oni' way to the 
khan, and squatted ourselves down therein ; to the 
no little astonishment of a crowd of idlers. TThen 
the news of our arrival had spread thi^ough this 
Uttle town, the khan was soon crowded vrith as bad 
a looking set of fellows as ever it was my lot to 
see : not the respectable looking rogues from the 
bazaar, but savage brigandish looking men, who 
were well armed, and appeai'ed to have nothing to 
do. I left the Prussian amongst them, whilst I 
escaped to the bazaar, to purchase something for 
our empty stomachs. I found the men in th{ 
bazaar, hke those at other places, determined to 
cheat me, but knowing somewhat near the usual 
price of their eatables, I was able to check them. 
It was amusing sometimes to see one of them 
eagerly conclude a bargain at half the price he had 
asked a minute or two before. TThen I retiumed, 
mv Prussian was shevrins his sword exercise to an 
admhing circle of Ai'abs, in the middle of the 
spacious khan. After he had done, several of the 
men shewed us what they could do in the same 
way; and one after another stood up, making a 
few slow movements vrith the sword, with vei^ 
great solemnity, as if an important event in their 
hves was taking place. Amidst them all we 



I 



84 



NIGHT AT JENEEN. 



managed to dine on breads figs^ and eggs ; with 
coffee_, without sugar^ prepared by the khan-keeper 
(khanjeej. 

Jeneen is only a small town^ containing two or 
three thousand inhabitants; and the population is 
all Mahometan. Erom its position as a frontier 
town commanding the plain^ it must always have 
been a place of importance. It has been often 
supposed to be the Jezreel of Scripture, but as 
Zerin occupies a situation agreeing so well with 
what we read of the position of J ezreel^ this place 
has more latterly been supposed to be the ancient 
Ginoea mentioned by Josephus. The khan in 
which we were staying was a large building, one 
half of which was set apart for the horses, mules, 
and asses. The other part had a raised divan, 
next the walls, about a yard in width and two yards 
high, on which travellers might sit or sleep. The 
khanjee did not live in his khan; and having 
swung a lamp in the centre of the room, he shut us 
in, along with a number of others, and went to his 
own home. One of the horses from the other end 
walked about during a deal of the night, «melUng 
among the sleepers, perhaps looking for his master; 
and that, with other annoyances which all travellers 
in the East must submit to, and which need not 
be mentioned, prevented me from getting any sleep. 
When the morning arrived we prepared for 
departure, when the khan-keeper made a most 
exorbitant demand. I just paid him a quarter of 
what he wanted us to give him, and, not heeding 



MOUNTAINS OF SAMARIA. 



85 



his threatenings, we started on our journey, and 
were soon glad in finding ourselves safely outside 
of tlie town. 

During the whole day our path was amongst the 
mountains of Samaria; and valley after valley, green 
and fertile, and covered over with corn/'' did we 
pass through. The rich green of the rising crops, 
with groves of olive trees interspersed, formed 
manv a beautiful scene in the midst of these fat 
valleys.^^ In one of them there was a sheet of 
water of considerable size, formed by the rains. 
The pathway led through one side of it, and we had 
to wade a considerable distance. Just beyond 
this, and above the road, was a village, and we were 
glad we had not to go through it. About noon we 
passed by another village ; a httle after which we 
were stopped by a company of roaming Arabs, 
some on horses and donkeys, and some on foot. 
They demanded bucksheesh, and were about to 
search for it. We just told them we had nothing 
for them (ma-feesh bucksheesh) , and, putting a bold 
face on the matter, pushed through them, and 
they let us go. We saw several other villages near 
this j returning from one of which we met what we . 
judged to be a company of Turkish officers, who 
had probably been collecting a tax at the village. 
And a little further on we were overtaken by two 
companies of persons, who, I supposed, had been 
to the taxing. With one of these we walked for 
several miles, though without interchanging a 
single word. One man, who from his appearance, 

I 



86 



LOSE OUR WAY. 



might be the chief of some village or district, 
walked the first, and was richly dressed, having 
on a scarlet cloak with gold embroidering, which 
descended to the knee. A young man, probably 
his son, followed him, who was still more richly 
attired ; and a man in plainer clothing brought up 
the rear. They were all three well armed. During 
most of the time we were with them, we ^ere 
traversing a horrid stony defile ; and, beginning to 
feel faint from thirst and fatigue, we had difficulty 
in keeping up with our adopted companions and 
armed defenders. We were sorry to see them turn 
towards the east, and leave us to travel alone over 
the most dangerous part of our journey. As evening 
approached, I judged we should not be far from 
Nablous, and seeing by the map that the road 
turned eastward towards that city, we turned into 
a path which led in that direction. We went on 
and on, bat came to no city, and it became evident 
that we had lost our way. Espying a village on 
the summit of a hill, we made towards it through 
a fine thickly planted grove of olive trees. When 
we got there, we found it a miserable collection of 
hovels, where it is probable a European face had 
seldom, if ever, been seen ; and it appeared to be 
quite deserted. We a;t length found a few poor 
and dirty looking people sitting in an enclosed 
court. They gave us a little water to satisfy our 
raging thirst, and pointed over the summit of a 
high mountain before us as being the road to 
Nablous. This was bad news, as we were already 



MOUNT EBAL. 



87 



very much fatigued, and as evening was approach- 
ing. We had first to descend a precipitous path 
into the narrow and picturesque valley which 
separated us from Mount Ebal_, and we there met 
some women of the village returning from Nablous 
with oranges. We were very thirsty,, and after 
much talking and making many signs, we persuaded 
one woman to sell us two of her oranges. The 
scenery here was beautiful, both sides of the narrow 
valley being richly wooded; reminding us of some 
well-remembered romantic spots in the north of 
England. The ascent up Mount Ebal was most 
toilsome ; and, as the shades of twilight were 
beginning to gather around us, we began to fear 
lest we should be benighted before we reached 
Nablous. When we reached the summit of the 
mountain, the prospect before us almost repaid the 
extra toil we had undergone with losing our way, 
— a prospect unequalled in the whole land for 
beauty and fertility. Spreading along the base of 
the opposite hill lay the city of Nablous, built of 
exceedingly white stone, contrasting finely with 
the dark green of the luxuriant vegetation which 
filled the surrounding gardens and fields — where 
plenteous streams of crystal water were seen 
flowing. There is nothing/' says Clarke,^ ''finer 
than the view of Napolose from the heights around 
it. As the traveller descends towards it from the 
hills, it appears luxuriantly embosomed in the most 
dehghtful and fragrant bowers, half-concealed by 

1 Vol. iv. p. 268. 



88 



NABLOUS. 



rich gardens and by stately trees collected into 
groves^ all around the bold and beautiful valley in 
which it stands/^ 

Nablous is built on the site of Shalem^ a city 
of Shechem/^i near which Jacob pitched his tent 
when he came from Padan-aram into the land of 
Canaan; and where ^^he bought a parcel of a field 
where he had spread his tent at the hand of the 
children of Hamor^ Shechem^s father, for an 
hundred pieces of money On this ^-parcel of 
ground^^ J acob digged the well whereon Christ sat 
when he talked with the woman of Samaria: and 
when dwelling in Hebron, Jacob sent his sons here 
to pasture his Hocks. The tribes of Israel, when 
coming out of Egypt, assembled here, and were 
commanded to build an altar on Mount Ebal ; and 
whilst six tribes stood on Mount Gerizim to bless 
the people, six stood on Mount Ebal to respond to 
the curses,^ — the city occupying the valley between. 
It was afterwards assigned to the Levites, and 
made a city of refuge. In the time of the Judges, 
Abimelech, the usurper, treacherously got possession 
of Shechem, and the curse of Jotham was fulfilled 
in the city being destroyed, and sown with salt. 
At Shechem ^^alllsraeP^ was assembled to proclaim 
Jereboam king, when the ^ ■ kingdom was rent from 
the house of David.^ After the taking away of 
Israel, and the captivity of Judah, Shechem became 
the chief city of the Samaritans. Here the Lord 
Jesus passed when he went out of Judea into 

1 Gen. xxxiii. 19. 2 Josh, viii, 30-35. 3 1 Kings xi, 



ENMS. NABLOUS. 



89 



Galilee j and tlie people of the city believed on him 
for the saying of the woman from the well,, and 
afterwards said^ ^^now we believe, . . for ive have 
heard him ourselves, and know that this is indeed the 
Christ, the Saviour of the world.^^ 

The descent down the rugged sides of Ebal to 
Nablons was painful to our wearied limbs: the 
road being very steep and very stony. When 
near the top^ bucksheesh was demanded from us by 
an ill-looking set of men^ and we had more difficulty 
in getting away from them than when we were 
previously stopped. When we approached the city 
walls it was almost dark^ but groups of idlers were 
still sitting on the ground ; and some boys who 
were playing around them commenced pelting us 
with stones. Entering through the gate^ we found 
ourslves in a mean dirty street^ along the middle 
of which was running a stream of clear water. The 
greater part of the shops in the bazaar were closed 
for the nighty and very few people were left in the 
streets : and they did not give very civil answers 
to our inquiries for a khan. We at length found 
one, and having entered it^ saw a large spacious 
inner courts in which camels and men were sleeping 
together^ exposed to the air. On one side was a 
large vaults in utter darkness^ having at its entrance 
a damp and unpleasant smelly and quite empty. 
Into this we would not enter^ and left the khan to 
make fresh enquiries in the street. The man who 
sold coffee at the entrance of the khan took us to 
a very small upper room over a shop in the bazaar; 

i2 



90 



LEAVE NABLOtJIg. 



and furtlier obliged us by covering part of its 
earthen floor with an old mat^ and by lighting us 
a small charcoal fire on the ground. Late as it 
was^ I had then to go out to buy provisions,, and 
managed to procure breads cheese^ eggs^ and 
oranges ; and when I returned I made some tea 
from a small quantity I had carried with me^ and 
made a very comfortable meal. But nothing that 
I could take allayed my raging thirst; and at 
intervals during the night I drank water and 
sucked oranges without being much relieved. 

Early the next morning (Sunday, Feb. 6) we 
set out of Nablous, after paying the khan-keeper 
about half of his exorbitant demands. In the 
basaar a few of the shops were just being opened/ 
and the men stared at us no little. I should have 
preferred resting on the Sabbath, but I thought 
it would be better to take a short Sabbath day^s 
journey than to stay in Nablous. Passing by 
beautiful groves, we emerged to a fine and well- 
cultivated plain, generally regarded as the parcel of 
ground — before referred to — ^which Jacob bought, 
and afterwards gave to his son Joseph. I began to 
look about for Jacobus well, and, as most travellers 
describe it as being near the path we were on, I 
suppose we must have passed very near, though I 
could see nothing of it. Two Arabs came up to 
us, and offered to shew us the well — Beer 
Yacoob — but nothing could persuade my Prussian 
to stop and accompany them. So we pushed 
on, meeting as we went numbers of the Arab 



AUAB COMPANIONS. 



91 



peasantry^ mostly women^ carrying vegetables^ sour 
milk^, and other things^ on their heads^ to sell at 
Nablons. After a little while^ we were overtaken 
by two Arabs^ one middle-aged and the otlier ♦ 
youngs who told us they were going to Jerusa- 
lem — (El-KhuddisJ , and when they found that 
we were also going thither^ they -intimated their 
desire to join us as companions [sowa-soioa), and 
kept along side of us notwithstanding our evi- 
evident desire to get quit of them. When we left 
the path^ and sat down to breakfast under the 
shade of a large olive tree^ they followed us to the 
place^, and sat down beside us^ desiring to help us 
in eating our breakfast. I thought this would 
never do^ as we had only provided for ourselves^ so 
I bade them go in peace.''^ This sent them 
away^ and we were very glad to get quit of them. 
But after we had resumed our journey,, and gone 
a few miles further^ we found them waiting for us, 
sitting by the side of a well. As we passed on, 
they joined us, and again expressed their desire to 
be our companions in the journey : but being 
determined to separate from them, if possible^ we 
made an effort to outwalk them; and, as one of them 
halted a little in his walk^ we succeeded in getting 
quite out of their %iew. We were then entering 
the fine vale of Lebonah, mentioned in the book of 
J udges^i after crossing a mountainous district which 
separates it from the extensive plain of Shechem. 
The village of Lubban was a little to our right, 

1 Judges xxi. 19. 



92 



KHAN LtJBBAN. 



seated on rising ground on the west of tlie valley* 
When opposite the village^ we met with a very 
friendly old Arab^ and we sat down with him to 
talk a little. He was very communicative^ only 
we did^nt know what he was talking about. I 
smoked a little from his pipe^ and then satisfied 
his curiosity about my umbrella^ and he was quite 
interested in seeing how it opened and shut. A 
party of raggedy ferocious-looking Arabs were then 
coming up^ and he motioned us to sit with him 
until they had passed. I think that in this he 
was providing for our safety. They stayed to 
speak to the old man^ and also greatly admired 
my umbrella. 

Perceiving our two would-be companions gaining 
on us^ we resumed our journey : and just as we 
commenced ascending the hill at the south end of 
the valley^ we came to the Khan Lubban^ well- 
known as the usual resting-place for European 
travellers after the first day^s journey northwards 
from Jerusalem. There was there a copious spring 
of the clearest water^ at the side of the ruins of an 
extensive old khan. Scarcely staying to drink, 
we began to chmb a most steep and rugged path, 
winding up the almost precipitous sides of a high 
hill. This was a most toilsome ascent, and we 
were putting forth our little remaining energy, in 
order to distance the persevering pair behind us. 
We passed a young man and a young woman, each 
bearing a large pitcher of water which they had 
brought from the khan at the foot of the hill. A 



STAY AT SINGEEL. 



93 



little farther on, on the summit of the hill, we 
passed an old Arab sitting by the roadside, who 
invited us to stay at his village all night. Not 
heeding him, we went on until we were opposite 
a village, on our right, which we afterwards found 
the inhabitants called Singhee.^ W e twued aside 
to rest under some olive trees, not knowing whether 
to go further or not, and we were there overtaken 
by the man who had invited us, accompanied by 
the two men who had followed us all the day. They 
all invited us to turn aside and stay all night at 
the village, and told us there was no other place 
further on where we could stay. Though it was 
only about three o^clock in the afternoon, we 
considered it best to go Avith them, and after about 
ten minutes^ walk, we all reached the village. The 
old man who had first invited us, took us to his 
house, laid down a new mat for us, and seemed 
disposed to make us comfortable. Provisions, 
however, were very scarce, and all that we could 
get at first were a few figs ; and a drink of water, 
of which they were afraid of our taking too much, 
as it had all to be brought from Khan Lubban. The 
woman seemed much younger than her husband, 
and her dress was of course dirty white cotton: a 
number of young children were running about. 

The house we were in was built of stone, and 
had a chimney at one side of the room — a very 
unusual thing in Syria. One part of the floor was 
raised about a yard higher than the rest, on which 

1 This village is called by some travellers Sicgeel. 



94 



EASTERN MILL. 



the family slept^ and under it was a kind of cellar^ 
a few steps lower than the floor^ in which their 
asses and poultry abode. On the raised part was 
a hand mill^ at which a woman was grinding when 
we entered. It was placed on an inclined surface^ 
and the woman grinding sat on the higher side of 
the mill. She had pulled her trowsers up as high 
as her knees^ and her dirty bare legs, one on each 
side of the mill, kept the flour from spreading too 
much as it fell from the stones. The sight was 
almost enough to spoil our appetite for the bread 
of the village. When she had finished her grinding, 
she gathered the flour with her hands from oflF the 
floor into a small bag, and went away ; and a 
young woman, who had perhaps nearly a quart of 
wheat, took her place at the mill. After we had 
been there an hour or two, they brought us some 
very soft indigestible bread which had been baked 
on small pebbles at a neighbour's oven. The 
pebbles were nearly as large as nuts, and we saw 
them picked out of the cakes after they came 
to the house,, leaving the under side indented to 
their shape. I suppose they will be used to prevent 
the bread from burning. The bread was so bad 
that we could scarcely eat it. 

A little after sunset the family took their evening 
meal ; and in lack of better fare we were fain to 
join them. It was prepared by heating a quantity 
of water over the wood fire, and into this was 
gradually stirred some wheat meal,^ and crumbs of 

1 Wheat meal, with a very little barley ground along with it, is used for 
bread throughout the land— a little of the coai'sest braa being taken out by a 
band sieve. 



ARAB CHARACTERISTICS. 



95 



bread were afterwards added. When it had cooled 
a little,, we all sat round the pan on the floor^ and 
commenced dipping onr fingers in. A very httle^ 
however^ satisfied me^ and I amnsed myself with 
watching them eat. They were very expert in 
catching some of the thicker parts of the liquid 
mess^ and^ having allowed it to drain for a moment 
through their fingers^ they gave it a toss in theii' 
hands^ making it rapidly into a small ball^ and 
then threw it into their mouths. It is marvellous 
how^ with such diet^ they could yet appear healthy 
and strong. 

We rose very early on Monday morning, while 
it was yet dark^ and^ as it was cold^ we kindled up 
the fire^ and sat by it : and our Arab host and his 
wife then also rose up^ and joined us. During the 
previous evening I had^ very unwisely^ made several 
presents to the children^ and^ as is usually the 
case in the East, it was almost impossible to satisfy 
the man when he saw I was a person out of whom 
bucksheesh could be got. Gratitude is almost 
unknown there, and the more kind the traveller is, 
the more fierce and s-reedv they become in their 
demands. I had given him a piece of money to 
get changed for us, that we might buy some more 
provision, but he quietly put it in his pocket, and 
told me it was bucksheesh for sleeping: and refused 
to give us any more provisions without more 
money. I had only gold pieces left^ and if I had 
given him one to change, I should have got nothing 
back ; and as there was no village between there 



96 



START FOR JERUSALEM. 



and Jernsalem where I could attempt to get 
change^ or where I should have liked to have sheAvn 
that I possessed any money, I did not know how 
we should manage for provision. The Arab thought 
he had us fast, and could sponge us largely. We 
desired the sour soft bread, which we could scarcelv 
eat the night before, but none would he give us. 
I was determined to have some pro^dsion, as he 
had got my money, and, putting a bold face on the 
matter, commenced telling him in Arabic, to the 
best of my abihty, what I thought of him. My 
companion was terrified when the Arab and I got 
to shouting at each other, as we were completely 
at the mercy of the villagers, and he was not for 
staying any longer in the house ; but when I told 
him to go, he became quiet. At last our provision 
basket was reluctantly supplied, and we started in 
the grey twilight on our last day^s journey towards 
Jerusalem. The man went with us for about half 
a mile, to shew us the way, when he left us wishing 
us peace — maa-salama.^^ 

What a change has come over this once highly- 
favouredland ! Formerly it was the thickly-populated 
abode of the people whom the Lord had blessed, and 
now it has become the almost deserted habitation of 
the violent and the wicked. Through successive cen- 
tuides the Lord has been gradually accomplishing 
all that the inspired prophets foretold, and the cup 
of the Lord^s indignation would appear to be now 
well-nigh emptied — so completely does the present 
state of the land answer to all the predictions 



JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM. 



97 



respecting it. The Lord has said^ I will give it 
into the hands of the strangers for a prey^ and to 
the wicked of the earth for a spoils and they shall 
pollute it/^i ^^Destruction cometh; and they shall 
seek peace, and there shall be none. Mischief 
shall come upon mischief, and rumour shall be 
upon rumour.^^2 How exactly have these words 
been fulfilled ! 

We had not gone far before we entered a narrow 
rocky defile^ along which it was painful to walk. 
We were then on the mountains of Judea^ and as we 
advanced into the portion of the tribes which rejected 
the Messiah^ the country became more barren and 
rocky. We met several companies of travellers^ 
who appeared as if starting on their second day^s 
journey from J erusalem. They were mixed groups 
of Arabs^ Jews^ and others^ some mounted and 
some on foot^ associated for mutual defence. The 
camels which were with them appeared to suffer 
much in their feet^ on the rugged path. After 
some hours^ toil^ we had passed the worst part of 
our road ; and we then came to a fine springs near 
which we could sit under the shadow of a great 
rock^^ — which is always cool and pleasant^ whilst 
the shadow of a tree only partially relieves the 
intensity of the heat. We there breakfasted^ and 
the little I ate of the soft sour bread brought 
on an attack of the heartburn. When we were 

1 Ez.vii; 21. 

2 Ex. vii 25, 26.--Corresponding passages may also be seen in Isa, xxiv, 
Jer. vii. 34, and in many other places. 

K 



98 



TRIBE OF GYPSIES. 



sitting there^ a tribe of Gypsies passed us^ in Indian 
file^ with, one or two donkeys to carry burdens^ and 
almost every one of the tribe was loaded. The &st 
who came np was a woman^ half clad in rags ; and 
the dark filmy eye of the Zingalee was set in a 
haggard and hopeless-looking hungered face. She 
bore in her arms a little emaciated child^ and came 
to the spring where we were sitting. As she 
could not easily get the water^ I gave her the 
bottle we were drinking from^ much to the surprise 
and expressed indignation of my companion. She 
did not taste of the water herself, but poured a 
little into the mouth of the helpless babe ; and then, 
silently and uncomplainingly, resumed her toil- 
some march. The rest of the party passed by 
without turning aside to drink : except two boys, 
almost naked, near the rear, who scampered out 
of the path towards the water, but they were 
quickly pursued and driven back by an older youth 
armed with a stick. The two lads then appealed 
to one of the men, and they were permitted to go 
and drink. 

Eesuming our journey, we passed through some 
interesting valleys ; and wound round the sides of 
terraced mountains, green with the ohve and the 
fig tree. The leaves of the latter had lately come 
out, but the time of figs was not yet.^^ About 
noon we came to El-Beerah, the Beer or Beeroty 
of Scripture, a finely-situated village on an ele- 
vated summit; with a population of 700, all Ma- 

1 Jos. xviii. 25; Judges, ix. 21, 



EEER. 



99 



liometans. After passing tlie village^ Tve came to 
a fine copions spring (from wliicli the place receives 
its name) of the cleai^est water^ which fell into 
large ti^onghs at the eastern side of an ancient 
deserted buildings said to be the ruins of a khan. 
Is ear the spring two yonng Ai'abs were sitting eat- 
ings who told us they also were going to Jerusalem. 
My companion felt so hungiy that he contrived to 
join them_, and share theii' meal. At Beerah we 
were about three hours^ distance from Jerusalem^ 
and I be^an to wish exceedindv that we were 
there. The path^ after this^ led us through a most 
desolate and stonv recrion. The whole land seemed 
given up to stones^ and to gi^eat numbers of dismal 
croaking ravens. A few miles distant to oui' rights 
mountainous ridges terminated oui' view : on the 
top of which we saw El-Jeeb^ the ancient Gibeon^ 
so frequently mentioned and so famous in Old 
Testament history. Xear it was the great battle 
fought^ when the sun stood still in the midst of 
heaven^ and hasted not to go down about a whole 
day.^'^ A httle to the south of El- Jeeb, and on 
a still higher mountain^ are the ruins of Xeby 
Samweel^ called so from its being supposed to be 
the tomb of Samuel the prophet.- A tower which 
rises fi^om amidst its ruins is a prominent object 
of ^iew fi^om Jerusalem and the neighbom^hood^ 
appeai'ing hke the tall steeple of an ancient church. 
As we approached J erusalem^ the ground became 

1 Jos. s. 13, 2 Dr. Robinson and otiier modern travellers doubt that 
this is the Earn a of Samuel. 



100 



APPROACH JERUSALEM. 



still more stony and barren. "We met numbers of 
the peasants returning from tbe eity^ wbo appeared 
very poor^ and differed widely in personal appear- 
ance from tbe people of the north of Palestine. 
The countenance here was haggard^ with a small 
and sinister-looking eye^ and the face altogether 
like the Egyptian Arabs I afterwards saw at Alex- 
andria. We asked almost every one we met^ how 
many hours it was to Jerusalem^ and nearly 
all their answers varied. I had often perused 
accounts of the highly-excited feelings with 
which travellers have beheld^ for the first time^ the 
"holy city/^ but I must confess that as I toiled 
over the rugged path,, wearied and faint^ the 
deeply exciting associations of this once-favoured 
spot were almost forgotten in the pleasant antici- 
pations of a season of rest within its ancient walls. 
Therefore no very extraordinary feelings came over 
me when my eyes first rested on the yet distant 
domes and minarets of Jerusalem. But^ notwith- 
standing fatigue^ when we had arrived at a summit 
from whence we had a fuller view of the city_, I 
could not be insensible to feelings of a most pecu- 
liar nature^ and I mentally exclaimed, " Beautiful 
for situation.^-'^ Mountains encircled it round- 
some bare and rugged ; others, to the right, more 
green and fertile. And, within these everlasting 
hills, we beheld the ancient " dwelling place^^^ of 
the Most High ; the Zion where David reigned, 
and where the splendours of Solomon were seen ; 

1 Ps. xlviii. 2, 2 Ps. Ixxvi. 2. 



Winter the city. 



101 



where God^ in his temple^ did in veiy deed dwell 
with men on the earth/^^ and where the Son of God 
accomphshed the work of human redemption. On 
this memorable occasion^ all natnie contributed to 
heighten the effect : the afternoon was beantifiil, 
the sky clear and of the deepest blue^ and scarcely 
a breath of wind moved in the air. The chief seat 
of Israelis gi^andem' was before ns^ but none of that 
grandeur was there. The holy place of the ta- 
bernacles of the Most High ' is defiled, and^ after 
being made desolate/^ has become as the high 
place of the heathen. "V\Tiere the mirth of the 
joyous cit}'/^ oucQ sounded^ the stillness of death 
seemed to reign. The J erusalem that was is 
ruined/^ and the Jerusalem that is. is an abomi- 
nation. 

As we descended towards the city^ we entered a 
thickly planted grove of ohve trees^ through which 
the path led us towards the Damascus Gate, It 
was about three o^clock in the afternoon when om 
feet stood^ for the first time^ within the gates of 
Jerusalem. A massive wall surrounded the citv, 
and Tm^kish soldiers were on guard at the gate. 
How changed fi^om that time when it was the city 
of the Great King^ whither the tribes went up^ ^'the 
tribes of the Lord, unto the testimonv of Israel, to 
give thanks unto the name of the Lord.^^-^ The 
streets were cleaner than I had -anticipated after 
hearing and reading of their filthy conditiom and 
were much the same as in any other eastern city. It 

ni. Chron.vi IS. 2 Ps. xlvi.4. 3 Ps. cxxii. 4. 

k2 



102 



CONVENT. 



did not strike me that meanness^ filtli^ and 
misery/^ by wMch. a recent traveller appears to have 
been so much impressed^ prevailed here more than 
they do in other places. Guided by the excellent 
plan of Jerusalem in Bagster^s Scripture Atlas^ we 
went straight to the Latin Convent^ where we were 
assigned an apartment. I was truly thankful that 
we had at last reached a place of rest. 



CHAPTER VI. 



STREETS OF JERUSALEM. POOL OF SILOAMr 

MOUNT OF OLIVES. BETHANY. CHURCH OF THE 

HOLY SEPULCHRE.— ENGLISH CHURCH. 

One of tlie most difficult things for a traveller 
to Jerusalem^ is to realise^ after lie has arrived 
there, that he really is within the walls of the city 
of David^ and near the place where the Redeemer 
suffered. He may tell himself that it is so^ and 
yet the mind cannot /eeZ it. And when he goes 
out into the streets, and sees the ordinarv business 
of a small town going on around him^ he is half 
convinced that there must be some grand mistake 
in the matter. 

Early the next morning after our arrival^, I walked 
to the high part of the city^ near the Jaffa gate, 
and saw the new Enghsh Church, which occupies 
a prominent position there. It appeared to be 
a handsome substantial gothic building, with a 
wing on each side, one of which was being pre- 
pared for the residence of the British consul at 
Jerusalem, and the other, which was only partially 
built, was intended for the bishop. Great expense 
was incurred, and many years^ delay took place, in 
endeavouring to get permission from the Turkish 
government to build it; and it was several times 



104 



STREETS OF JERUSALEM. 



stopped ; and^ at last^ it had to be done in a way 
in whicli it might have been done at first,, without 
even asking for permission. Our consuls in the 
Turkish empire are allowed to have chapels at their 
consular residences^ and it was only by arranging 
for the consuFs house to be in the same building 
as the churchy that the building has at length been 
allowed to be completed. The old square towers 
near the J aflfa gate attracted my attention^ and I 
was struck with their apparent strength. Many 
soldiers and officers were walking about^ the greater 
part of the Jerusalem garrison being quartered 
there. 

I then went down a principal street of J erusalem^ 
leading east from the J affa gate^ towards the great 
mosque. Each side of the street was occupied by 
mean-looking Arab shops^ but there did not appear 
.to be much business going on — very little when 
compared with the business transacted dai^y inthe 
Beyroot bazaars. Near the foot of this street^ I 
came to the covered bazaar^ which consists of 
several long parallel arcades^ of rude construction^ 
which run north and south. They are said to 
contain altogether upwards of five hundred shops. 
This part of the city has been described by many 
travellers as being most filthy^ and as appearing 
not to have been cleaned out for centuries. But^ 
a few months before I arrived^ the Pasha had given 
orders for the whole to be cleansed and white- 
washed^ and the doors painted; and when I entered 
it, the place appeared clean and cheerful. Those 



wale: out oe the city. 



105 



of the same tirade are generally near together. In 
one pai't the butchers, and the dealers in vegetables, 
abounded : in another the smiths of various kinds 
were together ; the drapers in another place ; and 
the general grocers had their place in the bazaar, 
as well as occupying shops in many other parts of 
the city. After I had seen the bazaar, I called on 
the British consul, James Finn, Esq. I had found 
some inconvenience from the want of a European 
passport, and I called on Mr. Einn to see if he 
could supply me with one. He was very pohte, 
but told me that he had neither forms for passports, 
nor instructions for granting them. 

In the afternoon I walked down a clean and 
quiet street, leading south from the English ChuiThj 
which took me under an arch, and past the large 
Armenian Convent. A number of people were 
seated on the ground, with relics, beads, and other 
things before them, adapted to the peculiar tastes 
or superstitions of the Armenian Christian pilgrims, 
who were constantly passing in and out of the 
convent. A httle fui^ther on I came to the Zion 
Gate, which faces southward, and, going out of it, 
the frightful Yalley of Hinnom was before me, 
beyond which rose the Hill of Evil Council, which, 
though green, had a desolate appearance from the 
absence of trees = Close to the right of the gate, 
and outside the walls, was a mosque, generally 
termed the Tomb of David, and near it a smaller de- 
tached building. The surrounding ground was 
under preparation for grain crops, the young corn in 



106 



POOL OF SILOAM. 



some parts already appearing. Going eastward^ and 
descending a little near the south-east corner of the 
city^ I came to the pool of Siloam^ where a small 
stream of water was gushing forth. An old vene- 
rable-looking Arab was sitting at its brinks and 
began speaking to me. I fancied he might be 
repeating the beautiful story of Christ sending the 
blind man hither^ who testified — A man that is 
called J esus made clay, and anointed mine eyes, 
and said unto me, Go to the Pool of Siloam, and 
wash: and I went and washed, and I received 
sight.^^^ At the first sight of the place, I thought 
that it could not be the pool, for every account 
which I had seen, described it as an open deep re- 
servoir, and I saw nothing of the kind. The water 
came out from the side of the hill, and moved 
softly,^^^ amidst some large stones, after which it 
escaped to the valley beneath, irrigating there a 
number of small gardens. However, as I knew of 
no other place about Jerusalem where water 
flowed out, and as this was in the exact situation 
where the Pool of Siloam was marked on my map, 
I concluded that it must be the spot. From thence 
I descended to the bottom of the hill, and turned 
up the road leading northward up the valley of 
Jehosaphat. This is marked in many maps as a 
stream of water — the Brook Kedron, but the road 
in which I was walking was in the very centre of 
the valley, and there were no traces of water having 
run over it. As a great quantity of rain had pre- 

1 John ix. 11. 2 Isaiah viii. 6. 



rorxTAix OF the virgin. 



107 



viously fallen, I had expected to see some traces of 
the wintry torrent spoken of by Dr. Robinson^ 
but saw none.^ On my right, frightful high rocks 
rose precipitously ; above which, on the very edge 
of the precipice, was the village of Siloam. 

I next came to a lai^ge vault or cave, down to 
the bottom of which there was a long flight of 
steps. I went down, and found that they termi- 
nated in a vaulted passage, about a yard in width 
and two yards in height, paved at the bottom. 
On making the last step down, I unexpectedly 
fouiid my foot ankle-deep in the water; which was 
so clear that, in the dim hght of the vault, the 
paved passage appeared to be quite bare. I found 
by my map that tliis was the Fountain of the Vir- 
gin : which is called by some the Fountain of Siloam. 
Though called a fountain, I saw no tokens of its 
being a spring, and it is probably supphed with 
water from the Pools of Solomon, conveyed in the 
first place to the mosque of Omar, within the walls; 
and we mav conclude that it is the same water 
which afterwards escapes at the Pool of Siloam. 
There was a Tui'kish soldier sitting neai\ partaking 
of a meal with his wife and child; and he went down 
the steps to get some of the water. I tasted the 
water out of his vessel, and found it to be excellent. 

After this I went still further up the valley, until 
I was opposite the east corner of Jerusalem, where 
the mosque of Omar rises immediately within the 
walls. The valley of the Kedron, up which I was 

1 A considerable quarjtity of rain fell after this during the writer's stay 
in Jerusalem, but never sufficient to cause any flow down this Tailey. 



ll 



108 



GETHSEMANE. 



walking, was mucli deeper, and tlie sides more pre- 
cipitous, tlian I had anticipated. The four large 
monuments, of wMcli Absalom^s pillar is one, were 
now immediately above me on the right, behind 
which were the steep slopes of the Mount of Olives, 
still covered over with great numbers of large olive 
trees. The mountain had not a pleasing appear- 
ance, for there was only httle verdure, and the 
soil being of a light brown colour, apparently 
abounding either with chalk or lime, made it un- 
pleasant for the eye to look upon. Towards the 
foot of the mountain, vast numbers of gravestones 
covered the ground. A little higher up the valley, 
I came to where the pathway down from St. Ste- 
phen's Gate is carried over a narrow chasm by a 
small bridge, and there met a few pilgrims coming 
out of the city, and went with them towards the Gar- 
den of Gethsemane, which was close by. It is 
surrounded by a new wall, very strong and high, 
which has lately been erected, and there was some 
difficulty about our being admitted. It is gene- 
rally supposed that this is the true site of the 
garden, where, we read, that J esus ofttimes re- 
sorted thither with his disciples :''^ where, being 
in agony, he prayed more earnestly ; and his sweat 
was, as it were, great drops of blood falling down 
to the ground and where the multitude, with 
swords and staves,^' took the unresisting Saviour. 
It was with feelings of no common interest, there- 
fore, that I stooped at the low doorway, and entered 

1 John xviii. 2, 



GARDEN OF GETHSEMANE. 



109 



for tlie first time this hallowed enclosure. There 
was nothing to be seen except the eight old olive 
trees^ and they look so very old that it is not 
improbable they may have grown from the same 
roots as those which were standing and looking 
down upon the Saviour^s agony and betrayal. I 
should have hked to cut a piece from one of the 
trees^ as a memento of my visit,, but this had 
been carried on to such an extent by Catholic 
pilgrims that it had been found necessary to put a 
stop to the practice^ to prevent the trees being 
entirely cut away. Whilst the rest of the visitors were 
hearing recounted the traditions connected with 
each spot^ I sat down upon the spreading old roots 
-of one of the trees^ gazing upon the scene around 
me, and upon the eastern walls of Jerusalem, 
Exactly opposite was the Golden Gate, now walled 
up, which would formerly lead directly into the 
courts of the ancient temple; and I thought that it 
was probably the gate through which Christ left the 
city, when, despised and rejected of men, he retired 
alone to the Mount of Olives.^ And it was not 
difficult to realize the picture of his descending 
thence, down the steep path from the gate, after he 
had eaten his last passover ; when, followed by his 
chosen disciples, he came to this garden, of which it 
is said that J esus oft-times resorted thither,^^^ — a 
mournful train, the Lord knowing that the time was 
come when he should be betrayed. How surprising 
it was, to think, that I might be sitting by the very 

1 Jolin viii. I. 2 John xviii. 2. 



110 



MOUNT OF OLIVES. 



place where the angel appeared to him from 
heaven strengthening him/^^ Returning to Jeru- 
salem^ we passed by a building in the bottom of 
the valley^ near Gethsemane^ which we were told 
was the Greek church erected over the Tomb of 
the Virgin/^ The ascent from thence to St. Ste- 
phen's Gate is very steep. Entering there, I 
proceeded along the Via Dolorosa, and arrived at 
my quarters, tired with sight-seeing, and glad to 
regain a quiet resting-place. 

Early the next morning, by break of day, I set 
out to ascend the Mount of Ohves, and to visit the 
village of Bethany on the other side of the moun- 
tain — accompanied by a Cathohc pilgrim, who 
belonged to a primitive Alpine race inhabiting the 
Styrian Alps, north of Trieste. He showed me 
one of his books of devotion, printed at the capital, 
Laybach, in his native language — which appa- 
rently bore no resemblance to anything I had seen, 
but I suppose it would be a dialect of the Scla- 
vonian. He, however, could speak both Itahan 
and German ; and I managed, though with diffi- 
culty, to make him understand the place where 
I wished to go, and its Scripture history. Though 
he was extremely ignorant, I found he knew a 
little of the story of Lazarus and his sisters. As 
we ascended the Mount of Ohves, I kept con- 
tinually looking back at the city ; and as we rose 
higher and higher, Jerusalem was gradually opened 
to our view ; and when we were almost at the sum- 
mit, the whole city was spread out before our eyes. 

1 Luke xxii. 43. 



VIEW OF THE CITY. 



]11 



At some sucli spot^ on the same moTintain^ tlie 
Lord must have stood^ y^hen, coming from Bethany^ 
lie beheld tlie devoted city, and wept over it.^ 
Immediately within the walls_, on the side nearest 
us, was the splendid Mosque of Omar, built on the 
place where the temple of Solomon stood. The 
lower part of the mosque appeared to be white 
marble^ the upper part was of a bluish green 
colour ; and the whole was in a richly ornamented 
style of architectm'e. A magnificent dome towered 
over all,— and forms the principal object within the 
walls in every representation of J erusalem. Around 
this centre building was a spacious court, covered 
with rich verdure ; and outside of that, and within 
the sacred enclosure, were many lesser buildings, 
including a small mosque. From where we stood, 
we could see the circuit of the walls around the 
city, and we could distinguish several of the prin- 
cipal thoroughfares within. The new Enghsh 
church on Mount Zion was a very prominent object 
in the view. Proceeding on, we attained the 
summit of the mountain, and passed a dirty small 
village near the deserted Church of the Ascension. 
At this place an extensive view towards the east 
suddenly opened out before us. The river Jordan 
was seen pursuing a vrinding course through the 
midst of the plain far beneath us, and more to the 
right a portion of the Dead Sea was visible. Beyond 
all, a frightful range of apparently precipitous 
mountains terminated the view. As we descended 



1 Luke xix. 41. 



113 



BETHANY. 



the eastern slope of Olivet^ tlie countiy around 
Tis became increasingly beantiful. There were 
a larger nnmber of olive trees than on tbe Jeru- 
salem side of tbe mountain^ and many other kinds 
of trees also were growing on every hand. There 
were numbers of one kind of tree^ which I supposed 
to be apricot^ that were covered with beautiful 
blossom. We at length arrived at a secluded and 
picturesque ^dllage^ which I concluded must be 
Bethany. A boy whom we met guessed the object 
of our seai'ch^ and pointed out to us a very oldman^ 
sitting by the side of an entrance to a cave at the 
side of the road. I saw at once that this was the 
place shewn as the grave of Lazarus. The old man 
lighted us a small wax taper^ which he handed to 
us, and we descended a long flight of steps until 
we came to a low aperture^ through which we 
crept into a small room^ excavated out of the rock, 
where it is said the body of Lazarus was laid. 
Although there is no certainty about the matter, 
yet it may possibly be the very tomb from which 
Lazarus came forth, at the word of him who shall 
one day hkewise raise all his sleeping saints. As 
our candle was a very short one, we lost no time 
in coming out of the grave ; and, after giving the 
old man a small gratuity, we went round part of 
the village, and began to retrace our steps towards 
Jerusalem. A house is shewn in Bethany where 
it is said that Lazarus and his sisters lived ; but 
not behoving that the house of Lazarus could be 
existing at present, I did not even ask which it 



TOMB OP THE VIRGIN. 



113 



was. The \-illage is called by the Ai^abs^ Azareeah, 
from the name of Lazarus., We retm^ned by the 
same path that we took in goings over the highest 
summit of the Mount of Olives. At the foot of 
the mountain^ we tui^ned a little to our left,, to \dsit 
the four large sepulchi^al monuments^ said to be 
the tombs of Jehosaphat^ Absalom^ St. James^ and 
Zachariah. Two of these are immense blocks of 
rock^ from around which the stone has been hewn 
out. Near these is the Je^vish burying ground^ 
where the surface was covered with small grave- 
stones bearing Jewish inscriptions. Perhaps the 
principal reason why so many poor old Jews from 
Poland and Germany contiive to reach J erusalem 
'before they die^ is that they may be laid ^vith 
their forefathers in the valley of J ehosaphat. Some 
of them beheve in a curious tradition^ that those 
who are buried elsewhere will have to make their 
way underground^ to the vaUey of Jehosaphat^ at 
the resurrection. 

As we passed the Tomb of the Virgin^ we saw 
that the Greek Church was open^ and we went in. 
The number of burning lamps hanging from 
the ceiling was immense^ and a large crowd of 
pilgrimSj principally Eussians^ were dihgent at 
their devotions. The interior had evidentlv been 
adorned at great expense^ but the pictures and 
ornaments were such as we^ in England^ should 
give to please very young children. The Cathohc 
Church close by^ also said to be over the tomb of 
the virgin/^ is a small place under ground ; and; 

l3 



114 



tJPPER POOL. 



looking in, we saw one or two persons in monkisli 
dress : there were no worshippers there. Whilst 
pilgrims belonging to the Greek church were in 
Jerusalem in great numbers, I saw only one or 
two Cathohc pilgrims, who had repaired thither 
for devotional purposes, or as a work of merit. The 
Greek pilgrims were mostly Russians, or of the 
Sclavonic nations on the Daunbe. The number 
who visit J erusalem every year must be immense, 
and it is more than probable that they hope to gain 
heaven through this pilgrimage. 

My next excursion was to the west of the city. 
Going out of the Jaffa Gate, I turned to the right, 
and followed the road leading to Jaffa. Close by 
the path was a covered channel or sluice, down 
which water was running towards the city. At 
one or two places the top had been removed, or 
had been broken in, and some Turkish soldiers 
were there filling their vessels with water. Further 
on, the path led through fine open ground, covered 
with a carpet of grass, and there some companies of 
Turkish soldiers were going through their military 
evolutions. The oSicers had a coarse unintelligent 
appearance, and did not appear to differ in birth or 
education from the men in the ranks. When about 
a half a mile from the walls, I came to the Upper 
Pool of Gihon, a large and deep square reservoir, 
the sides of which were lined with cement. Though 
out of repair, it was not empty, the water being 
about a yard or two deep. This is doubtless 
the Upper Pool mentioned by Isaiah,^ and is 

1 Isaiah vii. 3 : xxvi. 2. 



CHURCH OP THE HOLY SEPULCHKE. 115 



supplied from the upper watercourse of Gilion/^ 
whicli we read that Hezekiali stopped^ ^^and brought 
it straight down to the west side of the city of 
David/^-*- This passage seems to point also to the 
channel of water I had seen, which is supplied from 
the Upper Pool^ and enters the city beside the J affa 
Gate. Beyond the Upper Pool were some monu- 
ments, and a large Mahometan burying ground. 

During the week, when the weather permitted, 
I visited and revisited many of the objects of 
interest in and around the city. I was rather 
disappointed at the appearance of the interior of 
the Church of the Holy Sepulchre : it was not so 
splendid as I had expected. As to the religious 
services, I went expecting to see ignorance and 
superstition displayed, and I gave little heed to 
what was going on. I could not but notice, on 
one occasion, a large crowd of G reek pilgrims, who 
were following one of their priests about the 
building, whilst the latter went from place to 
place, describing in an easy careless manner, what 
occurred at each spot. A company of Cathohc 
monks were also at the same time going through 
their mummeries, chanting from their books, which 
they held in one hand, whilst they held their 
burning candles in the other. Only two pilgrims 
accompanied this procession: one of whom was a 
middle-aged gentleman, and the other an interesting 
young lady- — and both I was told were Enghsh. 
These two pilgrims were also provided with candles 

1 II ChTon. xxsii. 30, 



116 



CURIOUS SCENE. 



and books. The Latin fathers got faster on with 
their work than did the Greek priest ; and when 
the monks overtook the larger procession belonging 
to the Greek churchy the crowd of pilgrims opened a 
way through their midst^ and stared with surprise at 
the strange appearance the others made when pas- 
sing through them^ whilst the Greek priest stopped in 
the middle of his speech^ looking down mth a 
contemptuous smile upon the small company of 
the rival church. Besides the Greek and Latin^ the 
Armenian^ the Coptic^ and other eastern churches^ 
are in joint possession of this buildings and each 
chui'ch has its own convent in some other part of 
Jerusalem. 

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre is said to be 
built over the place where our Lord was crucified 
and buried.^ In the middle of the churchy under 
the magnificent dome^ stands the marble mausoleum 
which encloses what they call the Holy Sepulchre. 
Pilgrims were constantly entering this^, and all 
pulled off* their shoes. I looked in^ and saw a 
number of lights burning; but not belie^dng in 
the identity of the place^ nor that our risen Saviour 
would have his people thus regard any earthly spot, 
I refrained from shewing^ after the eastern custom, 
my reverence for the tomb by taking off my shoes. 
A beautiful marble slab was pointed out as that on 
which the Saviour^s body was anointed. The 
monks also shew the place where the Empress 



1 The reader is referred to the end of this volume for a few remarks on 
this much disputed subiect. 



JERUSALEM. 



117 



Helena found tlie tkree crosses ; where the cross 
was fixed; the fissure in the rock; &c._, &c. In the 
court yard^ at the front of the churchy enormous 
quantities of beads were spread out upon the 
ground for sale; and in the street which leads 
from the western outlet of the courts the shops were 
stored with all sorts of pious waresj which pilgrims 
from all parts of the world carry away with them 
as mementos of their visit to J erusalem.^ 

There are many pleasant walks around the city. 
The favourite promenade is out of the J aff'a gate^ 
and towards the Upper Pool of Gihon. It was 
delightful to walk there in the cool of the evenings 
surrounded by people of various nations. Groups 
of pale-faced Jews^ Turkish officers with their 
heavy swarthy countenances^ Arab merchants^ and 
Greek pilgrims^ were continually passing ; and I 
occasionally met a European consul^ preceded by 

1 The Arab Christians who visit Jerusalem have a large ornament tatooed 
into their right arm, which is done by their priests as an indelible mark of their 
having performed the holy pilgrimage. The Roman Catholic pilgrims, before 
they leave Jerusalem, are supplied with a printed document, of which the 
following is a copy, by the secretary of the convent, in which the blanks are 
filled up with the name, country, and profession of the pilgrim : — 

**IN DEI NOMINE AMEN. 

Omnibus, et singulis prsesentes litteras inspecturis, lecturis, vel legi 

audituris fidem, notumque facimus Nos Terrse Sancta? Gustos JDominum 

, professionis Jerusalem feliciter pervenisse die 

Mens. inde subsequentibus diebus pracipua Sanctuaria, in quibus 

MundiSalvator dilectum populum suum, imo et totius humani generis perditam 
congeriem ab inferi servitute misericorditer liberavit, utpote Calvarium, ubi 
Cruci affixus, devicta morte, Cceli januas nobis aperuit; SS. Sepulchrum, ubi 
Sacrosanctum ejus corpus recouditum, triduo ante suam gloriosissimam, Res- 
urrectionem quievit, ac tandem ea omnia Sacra Palestinee Loca gressibus 
Domini ac Beatissimse ejus Matris Maria; consecrata, a Religiosis nostris, et 
Peregrinis Visitari solita, visitasse et magna cum devotione in eis Missam 
audivisse. 

^ In quorum fidem has scriptui-as officii nostri sigillo munitas per Secre- 
tarium expediri mandavimus. Datis apud S.Civitatem Jerusalem ex Venerabiii 

nostro Conventu SS. Salvatoris, die mens anno D. 

De Mandato Reverendiss. in Christo Patris. 



118 



ENGLISH CHURCH. 



his dragoman with a long silver-headed stick. 
Also^ Bishop Gobat and his family- often rode out 
in this direction. The gates of Jerusalem are 
closed about an hour after sunset^ after which there 
is no admission for any one. A substantial build- 
ing was however being erected outside the Jaffa 
gate, for the accommodation, during a nighty of 
those who arrive after the closing of the gates. 

I visited several times the new Protestant Church, 
and conversed with two English carpenters who 
were engaged in laying the floor. They told me 
that almost all the materials, excepting stone, were 
sent from England. I ascended to the roof, from 
whence there was a very fine prospect of the city 
and the surrounding country. The slates on the 
roof were brought from England, and were very 
large and thick. One of the boxes of slate had 
been unfortunately lost into the sea at J affa, and a 
fresh supply would have to be sent for from Eng- 
land. From that and other causes, I was told that 
the opening of the Church would take place much 
later than was expected. 

The English Church is built on the highest part 
of the city, generally (though I think improperly) 
called Mount Zion. We have previously shewn, 
from Scripture, the identity of the Mount Zion of 
prophecy with Mount Hermon, and the very high 
probability of its being the Holy Mount where 
our Saviour was transfigured. The stronghold of 
Zion at Jerusalem is only first mentioned on the 
occasion of David's taking it, and it was thence 



TOPOGRAPHY OF THE CITY. 



119 



also called tlie City of David/'' There is, how- 
ever^ great reason for doubting that it was situated 
in the part of Jerusalem now called Mount Zion^ 
on which the church is built. From 2 Chron. 
viii. lly we learn that Solomon brought up his wife^ 
the daughter of Pharoah, from the City of Da^id 
to a house that he had built for her ; the reason 
assigned beings that Zion^ the city of David^ was 
thenceforth to be holy^ since the ark of the Lord 
had come there^ and that even the hinges wife 
should not dwell there. What is now called Zion 
is on the highest part of Jerusalem^ but we see 
from the above passage that the stronghold of Zion 
was not on the most elevated spot_, for Solomon^s 
wife was brought up from it to a higher part of the 
city. We learn^ moreover^ from the same passage^ 
that Zion was in the quarter afterwards appro- 
priated to sacred purposes. There the Temple was 
built^ and there the Mosque of Omar now stands : 
in that quarter also must have been the place 
where the stronghold of Zion stood^ and from which 
Solomon^s wife was removed to a higher part^— 
probably to the highest quarter — that which is now 
called Zion. 

I rose early on my first Sabbath morning in 
Jerusalem^ and^ as the morning was fine^ I walked 
quite round the city^ outside the walls. I was 
reminded; in so doings of the passage^ ^^walk about 
Zion, and go round about her; tell the towers 
thereof.^^^ Though the walls are kept in repair^ 

1 Ps. xlviii. 12, 13. 



ISO 



ENGLISH SERVICE. 



for the safety of the inhabitants^ and we may still 
mark her bnlwarks^ yet there are no ^'^palaces^^ left 
for us to consider/'' nor any glory to recount ^^to 
the generation following/^ The glorious capital 
of Israel has for ages been ruined/^'^ and of the 
present Jerusalem we may exclaim^ '"''Is this the 
city that men call the perfection of beauty^ the joy 
of the whole earth V'^^ I saw no suburbs around 
Jerusalem^ for such is the state of the sur- 
rounding country^ that it would not be safe to live 
outside the walls. I went to the church early^ and 
saw the congi'egation enter. It consisted principally 
of the famihes and dependents of the missionaries, 
German tradespeople^ and English and German 
artificers engaged in building the new churchy with 
a few German and Eastern Jews: altogether 60 
or 70 persons. The Bishop^ Mr. Veitch^ Mr. 
Nicolayson^ and Mr. Ewald entered together^ and 
took their positions in a row within the communion 
rails; and the whole congi^egation^ which had stood 
up; remained standing until the Bishop was seated. 
Honour should be given to whom honour is due_, yet 
I felt that thus to reverence man, at the very time we 
were assembled to worship God^ was indeed sinful. 
Mr. Nicolayson and Mr. Veitch read the morning 
service^ and the Bishop preached an excellent 
sermon^ — plain^ evangelical^ and impressive. After 
the service was over^ I observed the Bishop retui^ning 
to his residence^ preceded by two dragomen^ in full 
costume; each walking with a long silver-headed 

1 Is. iii. 8. 2 Lam. ii. 16. 



SEPULCHRES OF THE KIXGS. 



121 



staff, and I felt that it did not qnite harmonize 
with what I had just before heard. 

On a following day^ I joined a party who were 
going to visit the ^''Sepulchres of the Kings — 
about half a mile distant^ north of Jerusalem. 
TVe first descended into an immense pit^ and en- 
tered a spacious portico on its western side^ exca- 
vated out of the rock. Over its enti^ancC; the rock 
is sculptured into a beautiful cornice. From the 
portico^ after hghting our candles^ we crept on our 
hands and knees thi'ough a low apertui'e^ into a 
large square apartment; also hewn in the rock; 
and from thence we penetrated into all the sepul- 
chral chambers. The wonderful stone doors are 
all Ivins: broken in two or three pieces. The 
innermost chamber was the most diflacult of access^ 
for into it we had to creep on omt hands and knees 
down a descending passage. "We saw there an 
entire sarcophagus with its hd^ the latter being 
most beautifully sculptui^ed. The atmosphere in 
these chambers was most oppressive ; and^ deeply 
interesting as they are as monuments of the mighty 
dead of ages long past_, perhaps one of the chief 
pleasures attending this visits was to emerge fi'om 
their dark recesses into the light and aii' of heaven. 
Nothing is known of the history of these tombs^ 
and we can only conjecture for whom they were 
constructed : but^ from their position^, and fit'om the 
character of the sculptm^ed ornaments^ many doubt 
that they are^ what their name imphes^ the last 
abode of Judah's kings. 

M 



CHAPTER VII. 



BETHLEHEM. SOLOMON^S POOLS. LEAVE 

JERUSALEM. RAMLEH.— JAFFA. SHIPWRECK. — - 

JOURNEY TO MT. CARMEL. TYRE. BEYROOT. 

On Monday mornings I set out for Bethlehem on 
foot. We met numbers of the Bethlehem women^ 
carrying very heavy loads of firewood upon their 
heads to Jerusalem. Their attire was one long 
coarse blue dress^ reaching to the feet^ and secured 
round their waists with a strap. A great part of 
the way was over a fine elevated plain, which in 
many places was not cultivated. We passed the 
convent of Mar Ehas^ and the Tomb of Rachel^ 
both of them being near the road. After about an 
hour and a half, we came in sight of Bethlehem^ 
which occupies a commanding situation on the sum- 
mit of a hill. A large mass of buildings was seen on 
the east side of the hill^ which we judged would be 
the convent ; and on reaching the village we re- 
paired thither. Within the walls of the same build- 
ings both the Greeks and Latins have their convents^ 
and also their separate churches. The Greek Church 
was a very large square hall^ with a row of marble 
pillars up each side^ and under the altar is the 
cave shown as the place where Christ was born. 

In the afternoon I took a walk alone through 
the village^ and observed that great numbers of 
the inhabitants were employed in making beads 



BETHLEHEM. 



123 



out of a soft wood^ whicli are sold to pilgrims at 
Jerusalem and other places. It is an unimportant 
village^ containing 600 or 700 inhabitants^ all 
native Christians : but the interest which is at- 
tached to the place is derived from its being so in- 
timately associated with the leading events of 
Scripture history. It was the scene of the remark- 
able occurrences recorded in the book of Ruth : 
the birth-place of David ; where he^ tending his 
father^'s sheep^ slew a lion and a bear^ and from 
whence he was called to be Israelis king. Here 
He^ who was David^s son and David^s Lord^ was 
born in a stable and cradled in a manger : and 
in the same neighbourhood^ the heavenly host 
appeared to the shepherds by nighty praising 
God^ and sajdng^ Glory to God in the highest^ and 
on earth peace^ good-will towards men.^^ 

I was not fortunate enough to find the Well of 
Bethlehem^ of whose water David longing to drink^ 
caused his three mighty men to break through the 
host of the Philistines^ and draw water for him. I 
met the women of the village bringing skins of 
water^ and saw others lea\dng with empty skins^ 
and being sure thereby to find the well where the 
inhabitants now get their supply^ I followed the 
path along which these women were going and 
returning. It led me in a north-west direction^ 
through a beautiful valley studded with olive trees^, 
and carpeted with grass j and past a \illage 
built on the summit of a hill_, to my right. After 
walking about two miles^ I came to where a num- 



124 



POOLS OF SOLOMON. 



ber of women were drawing water out of a deep 
well^ with small leathern buckets^ and so filling their 
skins. Some also were engaged in washing, and 
all were very merry. I got one of the women to 
let me drink, and found the water to be delicious. 
It was painful to see young women^ not over strong, 
bending beneath the weight of large skins full of 
water, and carrying them such a long distance. 

The next day I went, with two other visitors, to 
see the Pools of Solomon. The path was by the 
side of the aqueduct which carries the water 
from the pools to J erusalem ; and at several places, 
where the covering had been removed, I saw that 
a fine stream of pure water was running in that 
direction. Being curious about the construction 
of the aqueduct, I found that a square channel 
had first been made with strong masonry, that this 
had been partially filled with cement, and in that 
earthenware piping, of short lengths, and nearly a 
foot in diameter, had been laid : then the channel 
had been filled to the surface with cement, and the 
top overlaid with heavy stones fitting closely to 
each other. When the cement had hardened, it 
had formed, with the earthenware, a very strong, 
pipe. When near the pools we passed a boy, with 
a long gun slung on his back, watching a flock of 
sheep. At length we came to where a strong and 
high wall, the end of the lowest of the pools, 
built of large stones, and supported by a massive 
buttress, crossed the foot of a narrow valley. 
There was a man on the summit, carrying 



OCCURKENCE AT THE POOLS. 125 

a gun in liis hand ; and^ seeing that every one was 
armed, we began to have some unpleasant feelings 
as to the kind of neighbourhood we had got into. 
We did not climb up to the pool, but made a cir- 
cuit of nearly a mile, and came out at the head of 
the three pools — which are immense deep square 
reservoirs, the sides built of strong masonry, and 
coated with cement. The highest pool had a con- 
siderable quantity of water in it. At its northern 
side, are the remains of an ancient castle, the 
exterior walls of which are almost entire ; and, one 
of our party being thirsty, we went in by a strong 
door, and found a number of mean dwelhngs in 
the interior, where our companion got a large dish 
of sour milk (luhhun), "While he was drinking it, 
a number of the men, armed with heavy-headed 
sticks, began to gatlier round us in a very sus- 
picious manner, demanding bucksheesh from us. 
We retreated for the door, which we found shut^ 
and when we attempted to open it, they closed 
upon us, and prevented us : and it was only by dint 
of hard struggling, for they did not venture to 
strike us, that we at last got squeezed through the 
door. Our companion, however, had to pay very 
dear for his milk. We were glad to get away 
from the place, just staying, as we passed, to go 
down into the covered fountain which supplies the 
pools and the aqueduct with water, and in which 
a most abundant quantity was gushing forth. The 
pools are of different sizes ; and their immense 
capacity may be judged of by the admeasurement. 

M 3 



126 



SIGHTS IN BETHLI.HEM. 



They average in lengthy each^ 464 feet^ and 
203 feet in breadth^ and from 20 to 30 feet deep. 

The same evening we went down into the grotto^ 
where the monks say Christ was born. But there 
was nothing there that reminded us of the stable 
and the manger. I was really glad to get out 
again. I also saw the evening service going on in 
both the Greek and Latin Churches. When in 
the latter^ a man belonging to the convent was 
very desirous that I should hold a lighted candle 
in mv hand ! 

c/ 

On the next mornings we visited a cave where 
they say that the Virgm Mary lived ; and were 
shewn a place where it is said that milk had come 
from the rock to make up for a deficiency in the 
aliment of nature^s providing ! All this was told 
us by a woman who appeared to have the care of 
the cave. Making our escape from this place^ we 
went to the eastern side of the hill on which Beth- 
lehem is built^ where we overlooked a beautiful 
secluded valley^ of considerable size and of great 
fertility^ which tradition marks as the spot where 
the shepherds were watching by nighty when the 
angels appeared, bringing the glad tidings of a 
Saviour^ s birth. 

As we were returning to Jerusalem,, we went to 
RacheFs tomb, which is stated to be held in equal 
veneration by J ews, by Christians, and by Ma- 
hometans/^ and is probably on the very spot where 
Jacob buried his wife/ and set up a pillar upon her 

1 Gen. X5XV. 19, 20, 



TOMB OF DAVID. 



127 



gi'ave. A little further on the road is the Greek 
conyent of Mar Ehas ; a dismal-looking strong 
old building; and, -wishing to see all we conld, we 
went and knocked at the door. Xo one came for 
a long time, and we thonght the building was 
smely nninhabi^ed. At last a Terr old man let 
us in, without speaking a word, and stared at us, 
wondering who and what we were. The chui^ch, 
in the interior, had a most decaved and desolate 
aspect. A great many paintings coyered the walls, 
representing different passages in the history of 
Elijah. We were glad to reach the open air, out of 
the deathhke gloom and silence pervading the place. 

TThen near Jerusalem, we determined to finish 
bur explorings by peneti^ating, if possible, to the 
Tomb of Dayid, over which the Mahometans have 
erected a mosque ; and which is outside the walls, 
near the Zion gate. "W'e found only some young 
men about, probably servants ; and, after some 
hesitation, they let us in, stipidating for bucksheesh. 
They fii'st took us to a deserted room near the 
enti'ance, and having shown that, wished us to 
hand over the bucksheesh and depai^t. However, 
looking at an empty room did not satisfy us, and 
so they took us to another room, which contained 
a long plastered tomb (perhaps 12 feet long and a 
yard high). One of oiu' party had some reason for 
thinkinor that this was not what they reverenced 
as Dayid^s tomb ; but we could not see further, for 
some old men had found out what was going on, 
and, expressing gi^eat indignation, sent us away at 



128 



LEAVJ] JERUSALi^M* 



once ; not even allowing the men who had let us in 
to take bucksheesh. An old Jew^ whom we saw im- 
\ mediately after, said that they had not shown ns 
th^ tomb of David, — which he said was down in 
a lower part of the building. This is probably the 
very tomb of w^hich Peter said, *^^His sepulchre 
is with us unto this day/^^ 

When going with the same party through one of 
the streets of Jerusalem, near to St* Stephen^s gate, 
we turned up a narrow lane, which led to a gate of 
the sacred enclosure around the Mosque of Omar ; 
intending merely to look through the gate, and 
then return. A Mahometan boy was the first that 
saw us, and he seemed almost mad with rage at 
our presence there. He screamed for assistance, 
and pelted us with stones with all his might. The 
men came running to their doors, and we were glad 
to get away without receiving injury at their hands. 

On Tuesday morning, Feb. 23, having seen all 
that I wished, I left J erusalem on my route home- 
wards to Beyroot. I went to the Jaffa gate, where 
the horses stand for hire j and, with my imperfect 
Arabic, I managed to engage a good horse to 
Ramleh for 15 piastres, and if I went forward to 
Jaffa on it, I was to pay 5 piastres more. The 
distance to Jaffa is 45 miles, the charge for which 
was equal to three shillings and sixpence of our 
money. Outside the gate there was another 
mounted traveller, going also to J affa ; and to an 
Arab mounted on a donkey was committed the 

1 Actsii, 29. 



JOURNEY TO JAFFA. 



129 



care of botb. our horses. I could not discover to 
what country my companion belonged^ though I 
judged that he was a Bulgarian. We passed many 
pleasant-looking villages on the side of terraced 
mountains^ where the vine, the fig-tree, and the 
olive were growing. At other places the path led 
over barren hills and through rocky ravines. Al- 
together the road was much better, and travelhng 
along it more pleasant, than I had anticipated. 

At noon we came to where there was a man 
sitting in a rude tent by the wayside, who sold 
coffee to the passers-by ; and there we rested, and 
sipped his coffee. Journeying on, we were soon 
in the wide and rich Plain of Sharon. On every 
side it appeared well-cultivated ; the plough being 
still at work in some places, and in others the grain 
was growing thick upon the groimd. Of late years 
the cultivation of the land in this part has much 
increased. The native merchants of Jaffa grow 
immense quantities of grain on this plain,^ and 
export it to Beyroot and other places. I was told, 
by a good authority, that Palestine, on the average 
of years, now grows sufficient, or more than 
sufficient, for its own consumption. 

Our muleteer had intended to reach Jaffa that 
evening, but when we got to Ramleh, I was pleased 
to see that he had changed his mind. I enjoyed a 
walk through the quiet streets of this pleasant little 
town. Gardens and orchards were planted amongst 
the houses, and graceful palms, of noble teight, 
over-looked the whole. I slept all night at the 

1 See Jewish Intelligence for Feb. 1848. 



130 



JAFFA. 



Latin Convent — a gloomy-looking place^ where a 
death-like silence prevailed. We started again 
on onr journey very early the next mornings and 
reached J affa after two or three honrs^ ride. 

Jaffa is famed throughout Syria for its oranges. 
As we entered the suburbs, this beautiful fruit was 
hanging in the utmost profusion ; and very large 
oranges were selling in the bazaar at the rate of 
about 100 for a shilling. When the orange sellers 
at Beyroot wish to make the people believe that 
they have got very good ones^ they carry them 
through the streets shoutings ^^min Yafa, rain 
Yafa,^^ — from J affa^ from Jaffa. Though not large^ 
Jaffa is a town of considerable trade. Many native 
coasting vessels were in the harbour; and all along 
the sea side are the offices and warehouses of the 
native merchants. It is of very high antiquity ; 
and, as the sea-port for J erusalem^, has always been 
a place of importance. Here the cedars for Solo- 
mon^s temple were landed_, after being brought by 
ships from Tyre. The prophet Jonah took ship at 
Joppa^ when he fled from the presence of the Lord, 
In New Testament times, Dorcas^ who made gar- 
ments for the poor, dwelt here — who was restored 
to life by the hand of the apostle Peter : and here 
the same apostle was d^relling — at the house of 
Simon the tanner, by the sea- side — when he saw 
the vision, and received the messengers sent by 
Cornelius from Csesarea. 

Having ascertained that one of the small vessels 
in the harbour was about to sail that evening for 



LEAVE JAEFA. STORM. 



131 



BejTOot^ I purchased provisions for the voyage, 
and went on board. We set sail just as night was 
shrouding every thing from our view. Besides 
myself there were only four other passengers on 
board. One of them was an old decrepid J ew^ 
who had with him an Arab servant^ and the other 
two were respectable natives. For several hours 
we made rapid progress^ there being a strong breeze 
blowing in the right direction ; and I fell asleep 
on deck^ anticipating reaching Beyroot in a very 
few davs. 

About midnight I was awoke by the wind^ which 
had almost increased to a gale. The sailors were 
running about^ and we had to sit up to be out of 
their way. "\^hen the wind continued to increase^ 
I found we were in considerable danger^ as the 
vessel we were in was a very old one^ and far too 
heavily loaded with wheat. When the waves began 
to break upon the deck^ the sailors screamed^ and 
hastily sucked the water up with cloths ; for there 
were no scupper holes thiwgh which the water 
could run off, and the deck was so old and rotten 
that it got through into the cargo beneath. There 
was a deck cargo of oranges^ and these were now 
thrown overboard. The storm increased^ and the 
sailors were kept hard at work baling the water 
from the deck^ shouting and screaming to each 
other in agonizing tones. My fellow-passengers 
were weepiag and praying aloud^ and^ though more 
calm than they^ I had given up all hope of our 
lives being saved. I laboured with the crew in 



II 



132 



SHIPWRECK. 



baliag the water^ but it seemed to do little good. 
The vessel was sailing deeper and deeper^ and very 
many times I thought^ as the waves broke over us, 
that our last moment had come. It is awful, 
when in the full possession of life and health, to 
sit for hours in the prospect of immediate death. 
^^AU that a man hath will he give for his life.^^ 
All the crew but one then took to the boat, and 
one of the passengers likewise jumped in : and 
when the high waves in a moment separated them 
from our sight, I thought that, whatever became of 
us, they were sure to be lost. 

As the morning approached, the wind was driving 
us on shore : if it had shifted to the east our fate 
would have been inevitable. Just as the sun rose, 
the vessel drove with a shock on to a fine sandy 
beach : and as soon as it was immoveable, the waves 
swept quite over us with terrific force. One of the 
passengers swam to the shore on an oar, and his 
landing in safety inspired me with strong feelings 
of hope. The captain next reached the shore with 
his box of papers and money ; and I then jumped 
in, and it is impossible to describe the feelings of 
the moment, when, safe through the breakers, I 
stood on the shore, and felt that I was saved out 
of the jaws of a watery grave. The sailor, with 
the old Jew and his servant, all left the vessel to- 
gether, and reached the shore ; and so it came 
to pass that they all escaped safe to lond.^' We 
all felt truly thankful to God for our happy 
deliverance ; the others expressing this feeling by 



SCENE ON THE BEACH. 133 

often repeating the expression — Alhamecl lellah. 
In a very short time after we were wrecked^ 
the violence of the -vrayes tm^ned the vessel the 
wrong side up^ breaking the masts off. Besides 
wheat and oranges^ the cargo consisted of hides,, skins 
of butter^ bags of white soap in small squares^ &c.^ 
and these all now^ with the exception of the wheats 
were thrown up by the waves. Presently the 
sailors who had left the vessel during the night 
came up^ and we were glad to see that they 
were all safe. The place where we were wrecked 
was about 25 miles north of Jaffa; and there 
was no village near^ at which we could satisfy our 
wants. There was^ however^ an encampment of 
Bedaween Arabs in the neighbourhood^ who had 
come there to pasture their flocks on the plain^ and 
thev soon discovered us. The women and children 
— dirty^ black-looking creatures — came running 
along the beach^ loading themselves with oranges. 
The men of the tribe began to gather round 
us — the chiefs on most beautiful horses^ and our 
captain engaged a camel from them to bear him 
and his box to Jaffa. During all this time^ we 
were drying om^ clothes by a fire we had kindled 
on the beach. 

About mid-day^ we started on our journey back 
to Jaffa^ leaving the sailors in care of the wreck. 
We took an inland route^ and saw the black tents 
of the Bedaween encampment. We were all on 
foot^ except the captain on a camel^ and the old 
Jew on a donkey without a saddle. I had lost both 

N 

1( 



-1 



134 RETURN TO JAFFA. 

cap and slioes_, and I did not enjoy tlie alternate 
sunshine and heavy showers which- followed each 
other during the day. About an hour before 
sunset^ we came to a village^ and took up our 
quarters in the manzool or khan. The only 
provision that we could at first get^ was parched 
peas and raisins mixed; after that they brought us 
some soft wheaten cakes just baked. I accom- 
panied one of our party in a foraging expedition 
through the village^ and we found that a woman 
in one of the houses had some fresh milkj which 
we purchased. 

We resumed our journey an hour or two after 
midnight; having engaged three additional donkey s, 
on one of which I was mounted. I pitied much 
the poor old Jew^ who suffered greatly from the 
want of a saddle. The two young men who had 
the charge of our asses and camel^ took great 
delight in increasing his sufferings by making his 
donkey kick; and when they so provoked the 
animal that he fairly threw his rider^ their laughter 
had no bounds. This is only a specimen of the 
indignities everywhere shewn to the J ews in the 
land of their fathers. We got into Jaffa 
before the sun had risen^ and I was thankful to get 
a room in the convent^ where I could rest from 
my fatigues. 

My shipwreck and return to Jaffa procured me 
the acquaintance of two gentlemen^ who both were 
kind and attentive to me. One of them was Mr. 
Hanover, a German, who is the agent for the sale of 



JAFFA CONSUL. 



135 



the London Jews^ Society^s publications^ and could 
converse in Englisli^, and the other was a German 
monk at the convent. They both wished me to 
call on the British consul at Jaffa^ and to oblige 
them I wentj though I afterwards wished that I 
had not done so. I found that he was Assaad 
Yacoob Kayat^ a native of SjTia ; but well known 
in England^ from his having visited this country 
several times^ and lectured to public audiences.^^ 
A native may easily put on the European costume^ 
and surround himself with English comforts^ but 
it is not so easy to become a thorough and polite 
gentleman. I was really glad to escape from the 
presence of this Anglo- Arab^ and breathe freely in 
-the open air^ after such an oppressive and over- 
powering display of dignity. 

After staying two days at Jaffa^ I joined two of 
the monks from the convent^ who were setting out 
for Nazareth^ and whom I intended to accompany as 
far as Mount Carmel. I was not then disposed to 
trust my Hfe again in an Arab vessel^ preferring 
rather the fatigues of the land journey. I engaged^ 
as I understood_, a horse^ and paid the man the 
money ; but^ on setting out^ a large donkey was 
given me. The owner of the animals saw that I 
could not wait^ as my companions were already 
before me^ and took advantage of the circumstance. 
At the outskirts of the town^ he took away the 

1 He is the author of a very curious book, entitled " A Voice from 
Lebanon,'' pubhshed in Loudon in 1847, in ^hieh he gives an account cf his 
life and travels, and relates many most incredible incidents. Everv part is 
written in the true eastern style of self-adulation, and consequently the im- 
pression left on the readers' mind is opposite to ivhat the writer intended. 



136 JOURNEY PLAIN OF SHARON. 



donkey on whicli I was ridings and gave me in- 
stead a poor miserable one about half tbe size_, 
wbicli could scarcely keep up Avitli tbe rest. A 
mounted Arab^ and one on foot^ also joined us ; 
and^ with, our black muleteer^ we made up a party 
of six. We took the inland road^ through the 
middle of the Plain of Sharon. In some places 
the ground was cultivated^, and in others covered 
with grass. The country had an undulating sur- 
face_, and trees and bushes^ growing here and there^ 
gave variety and beauty to the scene. After more 
than eight hours^ travellings when it was nearly 
dark^ we arrived at a small callage where we were 
to lodge. The khan was the worst in which I had 
ever slept. It was a low gloomy vanity with black 
walls,, and a black earthen fxoor. Our horses^ 
asseS; and mule^ were close beside us^ and^ in my 
case^ sleep was quite out of the question. 

At an hour before sunrise we were again on our 
journey. After a few hours^ ride^ we turned west- 
ward across the plain^ and came to the sea-side^ 
which we followed until noon. Nothing could be 
more splendid than this beach. The sand was 
neither too hard nor too soft^ and was adorned 
with beautifully coloured shells : and we could ride 
within the edge of the foaming ocean. We came 
to Coesarea at noon; where we left the sea^ and 
turned inland through the ruins of this city. A 
part of the city wall yet remains^ and we passed 
under an arch^ which has formerly been one of 
the city gates. AU however was desolate and 



137 



nninliabited, and tlie ruin of the city is so complete 
that few signs of its ancient magnificence are now 
to be seen. On the beach I picked up some small 
smooth pebbles^ of beautiful marble. 

In New Testament times^ Csesarea was the usual 
residence of the Eoman governor ; and is often 
mentioned in connexion with the labours of the 
apostles. Here the gospel was first preached to 
the Gentiles^ by the apostle Peter, at the house of 
Cornelius the centurion. At Csesarea, King Herod 
was eaten of worms,, because he gave not God the 
glory .•'^ It was also the abode of Philip the Evan- 
gelist. Here Paul was imprisoned two years ; and 
here, Felix trembled at the word of the apostle, 
-and King Agrippa was almost persuaded to be a 
Christian. 

Just after we had passed outside the remains 
of the ancient wall, we rested and lunched besides 
a rich pasture, where w^e turned our horses, &c., 
loose for a short time. When we resumed our 
journey^ I had increased difficulty in making my 
donkey keep up with the others ; and after we had 
safely passed the village of Dor, whose inhabitants 
have not a very good reputation, I was fairly left 
behind, and soon lost sight of my companions. 
Though entirely unprotected, I was preserved 
from harm during the rest of the journey; and 
also kept in the right path. The sun set as I was 
opposite the south-west face of the promontory of 
Carmel, and I had then to make a long circuit 
before I could commence the ascent of the moun- 

N 2 



138 



PLAIN OF SHAHO^i'. 



tain. As darkness came on^ I lost tlie patli in the 
midst of of newly-plouglied ground^ througli whicli 
it was difficult to proceed. To say the leasts it was 
not pleasant to be alone^ benighted^ and to lose 
one^s way in this part of the country. After much 
search^ for the last rays of twilight had gone^ I was 
rejoiced to find the commencement of the road 
which leads up to the monastery. In half an hour 
more^ I had happily reached a place of rest and 
safety^ after fourteen or fifteen hours of toilsome 
travel. 

The Plain of Sharon^ along the coast between 
Jaffa and Mount Carmel^ is only very partially 
cultivated. After leaving Jaffa^ and its well- 
cultivated vicinity^ we had seen little grain growing, 
except near the small and far distant villages by 
which we had come. As we approached Mount 
Carmel,, more of the soil was bearing grain than 
nearer the middle of the plain. Companies of 
women were seen sitting, in some fields, in a row 
amongst the grain, puUing out a rapidly-spreading 
bulbous root, which grows in great profusion. 
"Whilst the women were thus toiling, the men 
would be sitting in some dark hut in their "vdllages, 
idly smoking their pipes round a few smoking 
embers. In ancient times, Sharon was celebrated for 
its richness and its excellency,'''' and in kingDavid^s 
reign, he had herds that fed in Sharon.''^-^ Now, 
for the transgression of Israel, ^^the earth moumeth 
and languish eth; . . Sharon is like a wilderness:''^ 

1 I Chron. xxvii. 29, 2 Isa, xxxiii. 9. 



CAHMEL— ACRE— ZIB. 



139 



but wlien Israel shall liave turned to their God^ 
and been restored to their own land^, ^^the wilderness 
and the solitary place shall be glad for them,, and 
the desert shall rejoice and blossom as the rose. 
The glory of Lebanon shall be given unto it^ the 
excellency of Carmel and Sharon.'^^ "And Sharon 
shall be a fold of flocks/^^ 

I rested a whole day^ breathing the delicious and 
invigorating atmosphere of Carmel^ and on the 
foUovdng day I walked to Acre^ making the circuit 
of its splendid bay. The river Mukutta was easily 
forded^ being only about half the depth that it was 
when we crossed it before. When at Acre^ I went 
to the British consul^ to get him to enquire for me 
-where I could engage a horse or donkey. He was 
a J ew^ and, unlike the Jaffa consul^ was perfectly 
courteous^ and kindly went with me^ — though we 
did not succeed in finding what I wanted. He 
spoke English^ but not with fluency. 

Early next morning (March 3rd)^ I set out alone 
on my journey northward^ and proceeded along the 
sea-shore for about ten miles^ to Zib or Zeeb.^ As 
I knew of no other place betT\ixt it and Tyre^ I 
felt obliged to stay there : though it was very 
unpleasant to remain^ alone^ in such a village^ the 
greater part of a day. At firsts when I entered^ 
the place looked deserted. I found out the khan^ 
which is a long buildings one end of which is 
reserved for horses^ and in it was a man with sore 
eyes^ lying on the ground^ and a little weakly boy. 

1 Isa. XXXV. 1, 2, 2 Isa. Ixv. 10. 3 See page 52, 



140 



ZEEB. 



Leaving this^ I enquired for a shop; and was shewn 
a little low house^ in a corner of the village. As 
the interior looked clean^ I went in and sat down, 
attempting to converse with the friendly old Ma- 
hometan who lived there. I purchased from him 
eggs, bread, and figs — the best provisions that he 
had. The bread was of the kind nsed in Lebanon 
■ — very tough nnfermented cakes, almost as thin as 
paper. As the evening approached, the appearance 
of the village became mnch more animated. The 
men were lounging about, or assembhng in groups 
near the Khan, and the women were going to and 
returning from the well, bearing pitchers of water 
on their shoulders . 

An old Arab, who had lodged at the Khan all 
night, started with me next morning, and accom- 
panied me all the way to Tyre. This was one of 
my most interesting walks in Palestine. In about 
an hour we came to the northern extremity of the 
plain of Acre, and ascended the rugged hill of 
Nakoura, which terminates in an abrupt precipice 
towards the sea. On the summit of this hill we 
rested and had coffee in a very rude hut, wherein 
two men were sitting. The view here was very 
fine. Looking back, the plain of Acre was spread 
out before us, bounded by the noble range of 
Carmel. On our left, far beneath us, was the wide- 
spreading deep blue sea, and, as we advanced, the 
frightful cliffs of the white promontory were in full 
view before us, rising precipitously out of the deep; 
between which and the hill we were on, a beautiful 



JOURNEY TO TYRE. 



141 



tract of country intervened. When traversing this 
plain^ we came to another khan^ in front of which 
a fountain of dehcious water was flowing from 
under an arch. We here purchased of a boy^ who 
appeared to have the managemeat of the place^ a 
quantity of bread and lubbiuiy with a few figs^ and 
we made a good breakfast. From this place we 
accompanied another man^ who was going in our 
direction^ with a mule and donkey heavily laden 
with semmen (Arab butter) in large skins. 

In a short time we were climbing an ancient 
road^ cut in the front and near the summit of the 
White Promontory . This is said to be the work of 
Alexander the great. To our left^ far beneath us^ 
-the foot of the white precipice rose directly from 
the deep ocean ; between which and the road^ in 
some places only a small wall of rock was left. A 
few years^ ago^ a robber chief had his head quarters 
in this neighbourhood^ and some fearful scenes are 
said to have been enacted along this frightful road. 
As we descended the north side of the hill. Tvre 
was in full view before us^ seated on the extremity 
of a promontory^ jutting out a considerable way 
into the sea. It appeared a small neat walled 
town. Betwixt there and Tyre we passed over the 
remains of an ancient paved road. Some suppose that 
old Tyre extended itself in this direction^ but so few 
remains are to be seen that the position of that city 
is quite problematic. That word has been literally 
fulfilled^ Though thou be sought for^ yet shalt thou 
never be found again^ saith the Lord God.'^^ 

1 Ezekiel xxvi. 21, 



142 



TYRE. 



It was about foiu' o^clock wlien we entered the 
gate of Tyrej after crossing a wide tract of loose 
sand. All was very quiet and stilly and nothing 
was there to remind us of her ancient glory. I 
found the khan to be a yery unpleasant place^ so I 
sought about for better lodgings^ and at last got an 
apartment in the Greek conyent. Being thoroughly 
tired of trayelling by land^ I yras wilhng to trust 
myself again in an Arab yessel ; and^ after enquiring 
I found that one was going to sail to Beyroot in 
about two days. 

^lodem Tyre is an impro^dng httle town_. built 
where the island city stood, which Alexander the 
great connected by a causeway with the mainland. 
Its chief trade is the export of its yery superior 
tobacco^ which is chiefly grown in the neigh- 
boui'hood. The inhabitants are skilful fishers^ and 
the long netS; which I saw diying on the cit}' walls^ 
reminded me of the prediction^ — ^* It shall be a 
place for spreading of nets in the midst of the 
sea.^''^ The harboui' was enclosed towards the sea 
by the ruins of ancient walls ; but only yery small 
vessels could enter^ as it is so much filled up with 
sand. The larger coasting vessels had to ride 
outside^ in the bay north of the promontory. 

The weather was beautiful though very warm, 
and I enjoyed myself much duiing these two days 
of repose. I was frequently in the bazaar^ where 
little business appeared to be going on. The south 
portion of the town is very closely built^ — the town 

1 Ezek. 5. 



SAIL FOR BEYROOT. 



143 



altogether containing a popalation of between 2000 
and 3000. Outside tlie walls, to the south, is a 
portion of the ancient island quite unoccupied, 
except with ruins. When walking there, I saw a 
man who had been seeking for coins, and bought 
some copper ones of him — all that he had — for 
two piastres. In the convent, a Greek family 
lived, who were singing and feasting on the eve of 
Lent ; and there were visitors continually calling, 
apparently without invitation, and joining in their 
feast. During the time I was there, I enjoyed 
beautifully flavoured fish, which were very plentiful, 
and could be purchased, ready broiled, in the bazaar. 

On Monday evening, I went on board the vessel 
-for Beyroot. As night set in we were almost 
opposite Sidon, having a very favourable breeze. 
During the night the wind increased, and it was so 
dark that the captain could not see the outline of 
Lebanon, and consequently did not know in which 
direction we were sailing. I had a small compass 
with me, and by it he steered for some time. I 
was very sick all the night; and so was also an 
Arab girl — the only passenger besides myself and 
an Austrian tailor. The morning found us opposite 
the promontory of Beyroot, and we were in the 
harbour before it was fully light. We were passed 
by the quarantine officers, and I landed, truly 
thankful for having finished my adventurous 
journey in safety. 



CHAP. VIII. 



BEYROOT. ARAB FUxVERAL. LEAVE BEYROOT. 

FRENCH STEAMER. ALEXANDRIA. MALTA. 

MARSEILLES. PARIS. BOULOGNE. 

ARRIVE IN ENGLAND. 

After my return from J erusalem^ I resided along 
with Mr. Lowthian almost tliree months^ in the 
pleasant vicinity of Beyroot. During this time we 
extended our acquaintance with our neighbours^ 
and were interested in obser\dng their manners 
and customs. The native population of Beyroot^ 
is^ for the East^ a highly ci^dhzed one. The great 
majority are Christians^ who are almost equally 
divided between the Greek and Maronite churches. 
In Lebanon there are few who belong to the former 
churchy nearly all being Maronites^ and under 
the Pope. 

Although now perfectly quiet^ Lebanon was 
recently the scene of a destructive warfare between 
the Druses and Maronites^, in which the latter^ 
though more numerous than their enemies^ were 
the greatest sufferers. During this war^ one of the 
engagements took place at Arbeh^ and a French 
priest who ventured out during the battle^ was 
accidentally shot. The American Missionaries 
there received no injury in any shape^ during the 
prolonged contest. At many places^ the houses of 



BRITISH INFLUENCE. 



145 



the Christians were burnt and destroyed. At Arbeh 
the Maronites took refuge in an ol:l castle there, 
and being besieged by the Druses^ were in danger 
of starvation. Word of this being sent to the 
English consul at Beyroot^ Col. Rose rode up ; and 
such reverence have the mountaineers for British 
power^that he^, without any military force^ conducted 
the besieged in safety to Beyroot. The two races 
are now dwelHng peaceably together^, more or less 
mixed^ throughout Lebanon. 

We heard several instances of the influence of the 
British consuls here ; and the i egard in which they 
are held by the people was some time ago strikingly 
instanced. When Niven Moore, Esq.^ the British 
consul, was appointed to Aleppo, in 1841, the Emirs 
or native Princes of Lebanon united in sending a 
petition to our Queen, praying, as a favour to them, 
that he might return to Beyroot. It was, I believe, 
in consequence of this application that Mr. Moore, 
after a short residence in Aleppo, was reappointed 
to Beyroot; where he and Colonel Rose now so 
ably represent Her Majesty^,s government, and so 
kindly attend to the interests of their countrymen. 

A short time before I left Beyroot, a wealthy Arab 
neighbour of ours died very suddenly. He and 
his brothers were the proprietors of a silk-spinning 
establishment, the only one in the hands of the 
natives. We were at first made aware of his death 
by the women of the neighbourhood lamenting and 
weeping. In an hour or t^o, companies of the 
male friends and acquaintances of the deceased, 

o 



146 



ARAB FUNERAL. 



began to arrive — dressed in their best attire^ and 
wearing that solemnity of countenance which only 
an Arab can exhibit. They would be going, 
doubtless, to mourn with and to comfort the 
mourners, — ^just as we read that the Jews did, in 
the time of our Lord, on the occasion of Lazarus^s 
death. The funeral took place the same day. As 
the procession started, the shrieks of the women 
of the family were awfuL There were between 
one and two hundred persons accompanying the 
body, and Mr. Lowthian and I joined the proces- 
sion. Some of the brothers evinced such an 
intensity of grief that they had to be helped along 
by others. Entering Beyroot, we followed them 
to a Greek church, where an aged priest read the 
funeral service in a nasal singing tone, the building 
being at the same time perfumed with burning 
incense from a censer. The procession afterwards 
went along the streets, and through the gate leading 
west. Just as the coffin emerged through the 
gate, it was elevated as high as possible on the 
outstretched hands of the bearers, and carried so 
for some distance, though with immense exertion, 
as the deceased was both tall and corpulent. The 
meaning of this we did not learn. 

During the next day, small parties of respectable 
females, all of course native Christians, were every 
now and then seen going to mourn with the female 
members of the family. As each party entered, 
piercing shrieks arose ; neither were their tears 
fictitious, for all whom we noticed returned with eyes 



MAHOMETAN TUXERALS. 



147 



inflamed with. Tveeping. This continued throughout 
the daV; the alarming shrieking being always re- 
peated as fresh mourners arrived. We were glad 
when evening brought with it silence and repose. 

On several occasions we saw the funeral pro- 
cessions of the Mahometans proceeding through 
the streets of Beyroot. The body was carried in 
a bier^ enclosed at the sides^ and over it green 
branches were fixed. A long train of moui^ners 
generally followed^ about half of whom would sing 
together a deep base and melancholy chant : and 
when these stoped^ the other half would respond 
in an equally melancholy wail^ though in a much 
higher key. 

^^V}e have now completed our journey over 
Palestine^, and are about to leave it. If the reader 
have shared with us in anv deo:ree in the interest 
of the journey^ he will share likewise our regret in 
bidding adieu to this land of prophets. TTe have 
ascended its mountains^ traversed its plains^ and 
examined the ruins of its once princely cities. We 
have breathed its air^ and drank its waters ; we 
have sat beneath the shadow of its solitary palm- 
trees^ and mused amid the sepulchres of its mighty 
dead : and now,, illustrious land ! we bid thee 
fai^ewell. Others claim our homage from the throne 
of theii' power; to thee it is wilHngly rendered 
although thou art seated amidst thy ruins. Of old 
thou wert wont to clothe thyself in purple, and sit 
on thrones; but the dust has long been thy dwelling, 
and sackcloth thine only coverino*. Shall it be 



148 



LEAVE BEYROOT. 



always thus ? Are thy wounds immedicable ? Shalt 
thou sit for ever on the ground? No. The 
same hand that hath chastened thee will yet raise 
thee from the dust; and array thee in thy beautiful 
garments^ and thy latter end shall be better than 
thy beginning. The mists of superstition^ w^hich 
have covered thee for ages^ shedding night upon 
thy plainsj shall pass away^ and O how fair upon thy 
mountains shall the morning break ! Tiiy sons 
shall come from far, and shall build thy cities; and 
they who made thee waste shall go forth of thee. 
Then Lebanon shall begin the song^ and Tabor 
and the dewy Herman shall return the shout. The 
ocean^ as it rolls around the foot of Carmel^ ahd 
along the borders of the flowery Sharon^ shall pro- 
long the hymn. The cedar on the mountains shall 
sing to the olive of the vale : the cities on the plain 
shall shout to the inhabitant of the hills : while the 
dwellers on the rock shall waft the tidings to the 
Jordan, that the Lord hath visited and redeemed 
his land/^i 

On Friday, May 26, I took my passage to 
Marseilles, and went on board the French Govern- 
ment steamer lie Caire/^ which had arrived at 
Beyroot from Alexandria in the morning of the 
same day. Among the passengers was Miss 
Graham, a sister of the ex-Home-Secretary, who 
had been travelling through Egypt and Syria. 
There was also an American clergyman, Mr. Pease, 
whose agreeable society I enjoyed until we arrived 

1 Wylie*s Modern Judea. 



ALEXANDillA. 149 

at Malta. We lost sight of the goodly land^^ 
as the evening closed in^ and early on Sunday 
morning we anchored in the capacious harbour of 
Alexandria. We could not land to see the city^ 
for Egypt puts Syria into quarantine^ though the 
latter is a much more healthy coimtry than Egypt. 
Very little of Alexandria was visible to us^ but 
beyond it we could just discern the summit of 
Pompey^s Pillar. A newly erected white building 
fronted the harbour^ which we were told was the 
new palace of the Pasha^s. Vessels from various 
nations were in the harbour^ and near us were 
several Egyptian men of war^ huge unwieldly 
looking three-deckers^ and two war steamers_, over 
which also the dirty-red flag of Egypt was flyiiig. 

We were detained at Alexandria until Tuesday 
mornings when the vesseFs bow was pointed for 
Malta. One part of our cargo consisted of leeches 
from Egypt — perhaps a hundred large boxes full. 
I should scarcely have supposed that there had 
been so many existing as we had then on board. 
We had a very favourable and pleasant voyage to 
Malta. When in the widest part of the Medi- 
terranean — the Adria where Paul was driven about 
with a tempest^ — the weather was a little squally. 
One of our passengers^ an old Italian from 
Alexandria^ who had been a bookseller or librarian 
there^ suffered a great deal from asthma: and he 
could not bear the confined air of his cabin at 
nighty but^ contrary to the surgeon^s orders^ spent 

1 Acts xxvii. 27. 

o2 



150 



MALTA. 



a great part of each night on deck^ exposed to a 
saturating dew. During each day, he sat lamenting 
his condition, and asking what crime he had com- 
mitted, that every one should neglect him and 
leave him to die. One morning he was worse than 
usual, and I helped him across the deck to his 
cabin, and in a short time afterwards he was found 
lying dead. Poor fellow ! he said he was going 
before he died to see his country^s independence ; 
but he was spared from seeing the hope of that 
independence destroyed. 

On Friday evening, we came in sight of Malta 
just as the golden rays of sunset were resting on 
the still waters of the ocean, and in a short time 
we were floating securely in its rock-girt harboui\ 
We could not land, as we were in quarantine, but I 
was glad to have reached the abodes of western 
civilization, and to be so near a land over which 
the flag of Britain was floating. Several passengers 
left us here, who "would have to remain in quarantine 
eight days. We remained at anchor all the next 
day, and, the sea-breeze being shut out, the heat 
was most excessive. Some fresh passengers came 
on board, amongst whom was Mrs. More O^Ferrall, 
the lady of the governor of Malta, who was fleeing 
home with her family from the dreaded summer 
heats of the island. 

We sailed from Malta in the evening, and on 
the next morning the beautiful coast of Sicily was 
on our right. The day after, we coasted along the 
eastern side of Sardinia, which appeared very rocky 



MARSEILLES QUARANTINE. 



151 



and barren. After that we sailed to the west of 
Corsica^ whose high mountains were seen covered 
with snow. On Tuesday noon we entered the 
harbour of Marseilles^ and were all taken with our 
luggage to the quarantine house^ to be imprisoned 
there for five davs. The accommodation was much 
better than in the quarantine establishments in the 
East; but, at the best^ it is a most unpleasant thing 
to be shut upj with nothing to dO; and to feel that 
one is a prisoner. I walked a good deal in the 
grounds with aFrench gentleman who was retm^ning 
from India^ and who could speak a little English. 
He was an enthusiastic republican^ and discoursed 
largely on the organization of labour. He would 
have it that the English aristocracy was a ^^bad 
institusheone/^ and said that by and bye there would 
be ^^von leetle revolusheone^"' in England^ after the 
model of France. He predicted that the entire 
continent would soon be under republican govern- 
ments_, and that England^ if she remained a 
monarchy^ would be isolated^ and its power would 
cease. He was much nearer the mark when 
describing English society as being unfortunately 
divided into classes^ almost as much separated 
as the different castes amongst the Hindoos. 
There was a Spanish gentleman also in quaran- 
tine — a strongly built man with a most stately 
walk — who maintained to the Frenchman the 
superiority of Spain to all other countries; and 
when the latter asked him in what she was superior^ 
whether in arts^ literature ^ or war^ the proud 



152 



MARSEILLES. 



Spaniard was in a towering passion^ and would 
not be reconciled to one who had so insulted him. 

On Sunday noon (June 11) we were set at 
liberty^ our luggage was taken on carts to the 
custom-house near the centre of the city, and we 
all had to wait about three hours^ standing in the 
streets^ waiting for the officers to examine our 
luggage. When that was over^ I went with my 
French friend to an hotels where I abode all night. 
Some of the streets of Marseilles are very fine. 
They were crowded with gay promenaders^ and^ 
apparently^ no regard was paid to the observance of 
the Sabbath. I was amused at the importunity of 
the little blacking boys^ who abound in all the 
leading thoroughfares^ and who almost compelled 
me to let one of them clean my shoes. I saw the 
milkmen taking their cov\^s and goats about the 
streets^ to be milked at the doors of their customers. 

About half-past eight on Monday mornings I 
seated myself in the rotonde of a diligence^ after 
having entered and paid for the whole distance to 
Paris. We were driven to the station of the 
Marseilles and Avignon railroad^ where the dili- 
gence^ with passengers and their luggage^ was 
hoisted from off the wheels by machinery^ and 
placed on a railway truck. The environs of Mar- 
seilles were very pleasing^ being occupied with 
gardens^ in which neat cottages were built. After 
passing these^ the railway led through a very 
mountanious district. About noon we reached 
Avignon^ where our diligence was lowered on to a 



JOURNEY IN DILIGENCE. 



153 



fresli set of wheels, and we were driven off. We 
remained a short time in Avignon^ which appeared 
to be a clean well-built old fashioned town. Great 
numbers of soldiers were visible in the streets. 

After leading Avignon, we travelled through a 
rich level country^ over a fine road which ran paral- 
lel to the river Rhone. Vv^e passed many curious 
villages^ with high old-fashioned gloomy-looking 
houses; and near each village^ there was generally 
the ruin of an old castle on an adjoining height. 
In some places I observed the people reaping, in 
others gathering the hay. The silk-spinning season 
was just over, and large quantities of cocoons were 
exposed before some of the houses. At a place 
.which I think was called Orange, we passed beside 
a very old and fine triumphal Arch. The j)rincipal 
peculiarities which I noticed in the dress of the 
women among the peasantry,, were large straw hats^ 
and wooden shoes. 

What a huge cumbrous machine a diligence is^ 
and how much in contrast to our stage coach ! The 
heavy constructed vehicle, the two dozen passengers^ 
and the mountain of luggage on the top, altogether 
a very heavy weight, were sui)ported by broad 
wagon wheels; and the noise was deafening as it 
was driven through the streets of the towns. The 
horses, of which there were usually five, were pow- 
erful heavy animals, not at all formed for quick 
action ; and it was painful to see them kept at full 
speed. With every change of horses there was a 
fresh driver, dressed like a peasant in a blue linen 



154 



THE RHONE^ — LYONS. 



blouse^ wlio kept cracking his whip in a most extra- 
ordinary manner. 

About four 0^ clock the next mornings we reached 
Valence^ where we were all transferred to a steamer 
on the river. Heavy rain had then come on^ and it 
was anything but pleasant to sit in a crowded damp 
boat^ proceeding against the current at the rate 
of five miles an hour. By and bye^ however^ the 
rain ceased^ the clouds dispersed^ and our river 
voyage became highly interesting. The country 
appeared very rich and well-cultivated. Hills rose 
on every hand^ which were covered to the summit 
with the \dne_, whilst the plains were laden with fine 
ripening crops of grain. 

The day was nearly at its close when we ap- 
proached Lyons^ and then the scene on the river 
was full of life and variety. Several handsome 
suspension bridges crossed the river. The washing 
boats^ moored by the quay side^ were quite new to 
me. When we landed^, an omnibus took us to the 
diligence office^ where I was told to be ready to 
start from Lyons at eight the next morning. This 
threw me quite on my own resources for the night. 
I could make no attempt at speaking French^ and 
I had now no companion to interpret for me, I 
walked up and down the streets observing all I 
could. News had arrived that day (June 13) that 
there had been some disturbance at Paris^ and 
several bodies of soldiers were assembling in the 
large square in front of the Hotel de YiUe. After 
walking about until I was wearied^ I entered an 



LYONS BOURGES — PARIS. 155 

inn^ and had no difficulty in making tliem under- 
stand I wanted dinner and a bed. 

I rose early tlie next mornings and took another 
walk about Lyons. I came to tbe Cathedral^ a 
venerable gotbic pile^ greatly admired I believe by 
antiquarians. In front of this there was a busy 
market of country produce. We started at eight 
o^ clocks journeying all the day through a beautiful 
fertile country ; and the villages had a more rural 
and pleasing aspect than in the south of France. 
In the midst of each village was the newly-planted 
tree of liberty^ and from the top of several the 
tri-color flag was waving. 

We travelled all the nighty and in the forenoon 
of next day reached Bourges^ a very well-built and 
cheerful-looking town^ where we stayed an hour or 
two. A railway connects Bourges with Paris^ and 
our diligence was driven to the station^ and speedily 
lowered^ minus the wheels^ on to a railway truck. 
The country through which the railway passed^ was 
more flat and barren than any we hiid hitherto seen 
in France. In some places it appeared quite boggy. 
We reached Orleans about two o^ clocks where there 
was a fine station and splendid refreshment rooms. 
We stayed about an hour there^ but of com^se^ as we 
never left the station, I saw nothing of the city. We 
arrived in Paris about eight o^ clock in the evening. 

As soon as the train stopped^ military officers 
enquh^ed of the passengers if any of them were 
workmen. An outbreak was expected in Paris^ and 
the government was preventing the influx of work- 



156 



PARIS BOULOGNE. 



men from the pro\inces. "We had to wait a long 
time at the station^ as seven diligences had arrived 
by the train, and our diligence was the last which 
was mounted on wheels,, and driven off. From the 
dihgence office, I made my way to an English inn, 
near the Boulevard des Italiens, where I felt quite 
at home, and was glad to hear that amidst the 
revolutions and changes which distracted other 
lands, our own beloved country was undisturbed 
and unshaken. 

The next day (Friday, June 16) I wandered alone 
through the streets of Paris, observing the physiog- 
nomy of the city. Everything appeared gay and 
beautiful, and I saw nothing to indicate the approach 
of the fearful convulsion, which, a week later, 
deluged the streets with blood. In the evening I 
removed my quarters to an hotel near the railway 
terminus, where no English was spoken, and was 
surprised that my dinner, with the bottle of weak 
wine — the usual accompaniment of the Frenchman's 
dinner — was only charged a franc (9id.). 

I left Paris early the next morning, by rail, and 
arrived at Boulogne about noon. Very many 
houses were to let, as the revolution had friirhtened 
away great numbers of the English residents. On 
the quay, they were swinging fine blood horses 
into the London steamer, for the revolution had 
caused that description of horses to be a drug in 
Paris j and great numbers of fine English horses, 
had, since February, found their way back to their 
native country. We started during the night, and 



ARRIYE AT LONDON. 



157 



after encountering a stiff breeze in the cliannel^ enter- 
ed the Thames next morning; and at noon of Sunday 
June 17 y I landed^ safe and well_, at London bridge^ 
thankful for having been preserved to tread again on 
Enghsh ground^ and for the near prospect of once 
more sharing the pleasures and comforts of home. 



APPENDIX. . 

CHURCH or THE HOLY SEPULCHRE. 

That this building is not over the place where our Lord was 
crucified and buried, is, I thinks evident from its position. He 
*' suffered without the gate,"l in a place nigh to the city ;"3 
whilst the church is not far from the centre of the city. And 
when we consider that Jerusalem, in New Testament times, was 
a much larger place than it now is, and that it extended north- 
ward far beyond its present limits, we see that the spot on which 
the church stands^ must then have been nearer than even it is 
at present to the centre of the city. 

In opposition to this view, many recent writers have adduced 
the historical evidence on the affirmative side of the question. 
Without going into the evidence, I would observe that the first 
and most important links in the chain are wanting, and that in 
their place are substituted a series of ingenious suppositions. 

We may imagine that public executions would take place in 
the part around Jerusalem reckoned as the most unclean ; and, 
agreeing with this, three of the Evangelists describe the place 
where the Saviour was crucified with two thieves, as being called 
*' Golgotha, which is being interpreted * The place of a s^ulL' 
The only place near Jerusalem at all answering to this description, 
of which we have any account in Scripture, is the valley of 
Hiunom, on the south of the city — frequently called Tophef 

1 Heb. xiii. 12. 2 John xix, 20. 



158 



APPENDIX. 



in the Old Testament. It is mentioned by Jeremiah as a 
defiled and polluted place, where the temple of Moloch had 
stood, and where the children had been sacrificed in the fire to 
that deity. On account of this the Lord said that they should 
bury in Tophet until there should be noplace,^^^ The remains 
of a^- lent tombs excavated in the rocky sides of this valley testify 
yet to the character of the spot. The place of a skuU'"^ would 
be a fitting name for it, and we know of no other place around 
Jerusalem to which such a name would then be applicable. 

Therefore, whilst it has been wisely ordained that we should 
not know anything certain of the place where our Lord was 
crucified and buried — that we might not reverence the j ace 
instead of him who suffered there, — we may conclude that it was 
not where the Church of the Holy Sepulchre now stands ; and 
we may incline, I think, to the opinion that it took place in 

Topheth which is in the valley of the children of Hinnom.''3 

1 Jer. vii. 32. 2 ii Kings xxm. 10. 



XEVATT, PKI>'TER, NEW-STKEET, J A^'CASTEB. 



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